tedmanzie Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 I have a 1983 japanese JV Squire P-bass (57 Reissue) that sounds great. I also have a 1984 Medium scale Squire that I love, but it doesn't sound as good. Both are strung with TI flats. I know the medium scale will sound a little different due to body size, scale length, and rosewood fingerboard, but I am assuming the main difference is due to the superior pickups in the JV. So I want to make some changes to the Medium Scale P: I have already ordered some '62 reissue Fender pickups: http://www.dv247.com/guitars/fender-original-vintage-p-bass-pickup--47773?gclid=CM-kyczDtrYCFXTMtAodQX4Aeg Before i install them (or get them installed) I was wondering if I should also change the volume pot and the tone pot and/or the capacitor? How much do these effect the sound? The pots on the medium scale have smaller knobs, so i suspect they may be more tricky to find replacements for if i change them? Cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 You can get some variation in tonal range by changing the cap/pot values - don't expect miracles though. As to whether it'll give you an 'improvement' or not isn't really measurable - you'll have to judge if you want to experiment further once you've had your new pickups fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 good point. i guess i should change one thing at a time or i won't know what's making the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brensabre79 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 If it ain't broke.... Good quality pots will make some difference, mainly because they work smoothly (cheaper ones/wrong type tend to be 'all-at-once'). Personally, while I had it open, I would stick some CTS pots in there and know it'll be good and smooth for 20+ years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) [quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1365428029' post='2039400'] If it ain't broke.... Good quality pots will make some difference, mainly because they work smoothly (cheaper ones/wrong type tend to be 'all-at-once'). Personally, while I had it open, I would stick some CTS pots in there and know it'll be good and smooth for 20+ years [/quote] thanks ben update - i have installed the Fender 62 pickups into the body, but not soldered them in. (the previous pickups seem visually much inferior so i'm glad i've got these new ones in) I can now see that the previous owner has done some sort of crappy soldering job - see pic attached. As far as I can tell the pots and cap are original (?) What do you reckon here? There is a nasty mess of solder on the volume pot but it worked fine. What value are the CTS pots if i go for replacements? And where do you recommend buying them from? Thanks Ted Edited April 8, 2013 by tedmanzie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iiipopes Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Fender standard are 250 kohm pots; audio taper for the volume control and either audio taper or linear taper for the tone control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Yeah - that soldering isn't great. In fact it's so far away from being great that I'd be inclined to throw the whole lot away and start again to be honest. The capacitor is a 0.00001 MFD (microfarad) mylar film type and dead easy to get hold of. If you look on the round edges of the pots you should see a value stamped there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) ok, you've all persuaded me. i've ordered an 'upgrade kit' which might not be the cheapest but seems to include good quality CTS pots, Switchcraft jack socket, cloth covered wire, and an orange cap that i've heard mentioned elsewhere. http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/precision-bass-wiring-kit-6618-p.asp the Fender pickups seem so nice i feel like they deserve the other bits i'll let you know if i get the decent sound i'm after. Edited April 8, 2013 by tedmanzie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iiipopes Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) If you're not experienced at soldering, the best practice is to take the components that are already on the bass and practice on them by unsoldering and resoldering until you get nice, clean, compact joints like the factory. Then work on installing the new components, taking care to make sure everything is cleaned, fluxed and tinned properly and with the properly heated soldering iron at the ready, with all tools and supplies laid out so there is no risk of inadvertent damage to the components, the instrument, or the bench top. A clean, organized, spacious work area is key to safety and a tidy installation. I started rewiring guitars with my first mail order guitar purchased for me by my family in @ 1975. That reminds me -- I just received in the post my .033 orange drop capacitor that I need to install in my 5-string bass before my next gig.... Edited April 9, 2013 by iiipopes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 good tip thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 If you're doing this again I'd also look at Lindy Fralin pickups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) Have you actually ordered it Ted? Bit late perhaps but - have a look at my feedback & bottom line of my sig below. Edited April 9, 2013 by KiOgon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 KiOgon - It is ordered and paid for... Thanks for the info though, your services look very good indeed If i get stuck i'll give you a shout! BTW is the cap sensitive to heat when soldering in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 [quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1365496966' post='2040203'] If you're doing this again I'd also look at Lindy Fralin pickups. [/quote] thanks, i did a lot of research and i know the Lindy Fralin get very good reviews. in the end i decided to go with the original fenders as they too seem to be well regarded, and they're actually pretty nicely priced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iiipopes Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 [quote name='tedmanzie' timestamp='1365498806' post='2040242']BTW is the cap sensitive to heat when soldering in?[/quote]It can be. After all these years, I am able to tell how long to leave the iron on the leads to get a good joint without a heat sink and without overheating the capacitor. But if you're not sure, getting a small "alligator" clip to attach to each lead at the body of the capacitor while you are soldering it would be a good idea until you also get a feel for how much heat is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 thanks, i will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bremen Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 [quote name='icastle' timestamp='1365448643' post='2039839'] The capacitor is a 0.00001 MFD (microfarad) mylar film type and dead easy to get hold of. [/quote] Slightly misplaced decimal point there - should be somewhere between 0.01 and 0.1uF (10 to 100nF) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 [quote name='bremen' timestamp='1365526301' post='2040736'] Slightly misplaced decimal point there - should be somewhere between 0.01 and 0.1uF (10 to 100nF) [/quote] what i have is a .047 Sprague Orange Drop capacitor which i assume is ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bremen Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Yeah lovely. There was some talk around here about substituting 0.015uF, a more subtle effect than 0.047. Pm me if you want one to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 thanks for the offer, i'll get this one and in and see how it sounds. when you say subtle do you mean less severe high freq roll-off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 [quote name='bremen' timestamp='1365526301' post='2040736'] Slightly misplaced decimal point there - should be somewhere between 0.01 and 0.1uF (10 to 100nF) [/quote] Ted said it was labelled 100K. 100K is 0.00001 MFD 103K is 0.01 MFD 104K is 0.1 MFD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 hmmm.... this is going not too well! i can solder to the pot 'arms' ok but i just cannot get the solder to flow onto the pot casing. its like my soldering iron is too low (15w) , or the solder is crap (lead free), or both.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannybuoy Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 That lead free solder is hard to work with. I knackered one of the pots on a bass by overheating it since I had to hold the iron on there for so long before it would melt! A hotter iron would help. Not too many places sell the leaded solder any more, Clas Ohlson in Croydon does - and as luck would have it they have a branch in Kingston! [url="http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Electrical-Solder/Pr309565000"]http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Electrical-Solder/Pr309565000[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 great thanks i'm in that situation of do i spend another £20 on a soldering iron, or £40 to pay someone to do it?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmanzie Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 i gave up. took it to charlie chandler's this morning for a proper job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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