Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Pickup and pots replacement on a P-bass - advice needed please


tedmanzie
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have a 1983 japanese JV Squire P-bass (57 Reissue) that sounds great.
I also have a 1984 Medium scale Squire that I love, but it doesn't sound as good.
Both are strung with TI flats. I know the medium scale will sound a little different due to body size, scale length, and rosewood fingerboard, but I am assuming the main difference is due to the superior pickups in the JV.

So I want to make some changes to the Medium Scale P:

I have already ordered some '62 reissue Fender pickups:
http://www.dv247.com/guitars/fender-original-vintage-p-bass-pickup--47773?gclid=CM-kyczDtrYCFXTMtAodQX4Aeg

Before i install them (or get them installed) I was wondering if I should also change the volume pot and the tone pot and/or the capacitor?
How much do these effect the sound?
The pots on the medium scale have smaller knobs, so i suspect they may be more tricky to find replacements for if i change them?

Cheers
Ted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get some variation in tonal range by changing the cap/pot values - don't expect miracles though.

As to whether it'll give you an 'improvement' or not isn't really measurable - you'll have to judge if you want to experiment further once you've had your new pickups fitted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1365428029' post='2039400']
If it ain't broke....

Good quality pots will make some difference, mainly because they work smoothly (cheaper ones/wrong type tend to be 'all-at-once'). Personally, while I had it open, I would stick some CTS pots in there and know it'll be good and smooth for 20+ years
[/quote]

thanks ben :)

update - i have installed the Fender 62 pickups into the body, but not soldered them in. (the previous pickups seem visually much inferior so i'm glad i've got these new ones in)

I can now see that the previous owner has done some sort of crappy soldering job - see pic attached.

As far as I can tell the pots and cap are original (?)
What do you reckon here? There is a nasty mess of solder on the volume pot but it worked fine. What value are the CTS pots if i go for replacements? And where do you recommend buying them from?

Thanks
Ted

Edited by tedmanzie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah - that soldering isn't great.
In fact it's so far away from being great that I'd be inclined to throw the whole lot away and start again to be honest. :)


The capacitor is a 0.00001 MFD (microfarad) mylar film type and dead easy to get hold of.

If you look on the round edges of the pots you should see a value stamped there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, you've all persuaded me.
i've ordered an 'upgrade kit' which might not be the cheapest but seems to include good quality CTS pots, Switchcraft jack socket, cloth covered wire, and an orange cap that i've heard mentioned elsewhere.
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/precision-bass-wiring-kit-6618-p.asp
the Fender pickups seem so nice i feel like they deserve the other bits :)
i'll let you know if i get the decent sound i'm after.

Edited by tedmanzie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're not experienced at soldering, the best practice is to take the components that are already on the bass and practice on them by unsoldering and resoldering until you get nice, clean, compact joints like the factory. Then work on installing the new components, taking care to make sure everything is cleaned, fluxed and tinned properly and with the properly heated soldering iron at the ready, with all tools and supplies laid out so there is no risk of inadvertent damage to the components, the instrument, or the bench top. A clean, organized, spacious work area is key to safety and a tidy installation.

I started rewiring guitars with my first mail order guitar purchased for me by my family in @ 1975. That reminds me -- I just received in the post my .033 orange drop capacitor that I need to install in my 5-string bass before my next gig....

Edited by iiipopes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1365496966' post='2040203']
If you're doing this again I'd also look at Lindy Fralin pickups.
[/quote]

thanks, i did a lot of research and i know the Lindy Fralin get very good reviews.
in the end i decided to go with the original fenders as they too seem to be well regarded, and they're actually pretty nicely priced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='tedmanzie' timestamp='1365498806' post='2040242']BTW is the cap sensitive to heat when soldering in?[/quote]It can be. After all these years, I am able to tell how long to leave the iron on the leads to get a good joint without a heat sink and without overheating the capacitor. But if you're not sure, getting a small "alligator" clip to attach to each lead at the body of the capacitor while you are soldering it would be a good idea until you also get a feel for how much heat is required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1365448643' post='2039839']



The capacitor is a 0.00001 MFD (microfarad) mylar film type and dead easy to get hold of.


[/quote]

Slightly misplaced decimal point there - should be somewhere between 0.01 and 0.1uF (10 to 100nF)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1365526301' post='2040736']
Slightly misplaced decimal point there - should be somewhere between 0.01 and 0.1uF (10 to 100nF)
[/quote]

what i have is a .047 Sprague Orange Drop capacitor
which i assume is ok? :gas:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1365526301' post='2040736']


Slightly misplaced decimal point there - should be somewhere between 0.01 and 0.1uF (10 to 100nF)
[/quote]

Ted said it was labelled 100K.

100K is 0.00001 MFD :)



103K is 0.01 MFD

104K is 0.1 MFD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That lead free solder is hard to work with. I knackered one of the pots on a bass by overheating it since I had to hold the iron on there for so long before it would melt!

A hotter iron would help. Not too many places sell the leaded solder any more, Clas Ohlson in Croydon does - and as luck would have it they have a branch in Kingston!

[url="http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Electrical-Solder/Pr309565000"]http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Electrical-Solder/Pr309565000[/url]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...