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4Bits


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I guess i should of posted here

Normal Tone controls is just a Resister then a Cap
So make Each Cap to a Bit on a 4Bit binary switch
47,22,15,10nF for a Bass giving a range of 94-10nF
22,18,15,10nF for a Strat giving a range of 65-10nF
as caps when linked like this are SUMMED
and a Binary/Hex switch lets you go down more channels of the switch at one time
also can turn it off with 0 selected and then 15 other states




This is my First go at it with 47nF Paper and Oil Cap, 22/15/10nF Polyester
now i dont know if i wired it up right because i cant hear any difference :(

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Never mind Bilbo; he's always been a bit delicate of a morning. He'll get over it. :mellow:

A good idea, well executed, but the key would be in the last line: can one hear any difference, to make it worthwhile..? I must, of course, be open and above board and declare my healthy cynicism in these matters. My tired old cloth ears couldn't tell a strat from a tele back then, and I've lost many dbs since, so I certainly won't be ripping my basses apart any time soon. I admire, however, the ingeniosity, and congratulate you on 'going for it'.
I doubt, too, that any sound files over the web could demonstrate the nuanced results, but it would be interesting to be able to listen for oneself to the divers possibilities.
Well done, anyway; you're pushing the envelope. B)

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I dont think it might be worth it, it MIGHT be worth it on a L&G Tone Controls with a Switch for the BASS/TREB
Treb 22, 15, 10 and 4.7nF
Bass 2.2, 1.5, 1nF and the 470pF
<same but a /10 lower>


Need to get my Worth Bench sorted and GET MOVING <dam Life always get in the way>

Wonder if i use a Different TYPE of CAP for each one of the stages
Would the sound changes be more Dramatic

I got Polyester (Green) and i got a 47nF Paper Oil thing

Edited by AngelLaHash
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Right at the Moment, i wired two of these 4bit Cap to a L&G Circuit A500K Treb and B1M etc
i think for the Treb the Caps Range from 47,25,12,10 (94-10nF)
and for the Bass 4.7, 2.2, 1n, 680pF (8.58-0.68nF)
But i just figured, that was for a STRAT and not a BASS

I think i can hear a bit of a done difference, but I'm not 100% sure.
Ill have to Weg my Tablet up and do a Video Recording (once i figure out why it went dead on me, after soldering in the last cap 680pF)
(Rat Nest of Wires going back and forth, and floating connections, i did use different types of Caps to get it a different feel)

+++++
Bass
for the Bass i cant hear a dam thing with this, so im going back to check the wiring and every thing.
and after that, move things around a bit
Maybe i shouldnt make it so COMPLEX with having a MegaTone36 in there too :( <Slaps Self>
one step at a time deeer SORRY

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Well a bit on my work so far, the Binary Switch i got was GRAY-CODING, a 0 here and a 1 there!!
So i am looking to get one of them PCB Hex Switches and Screw the PCB with the Switch to the Plate,

Well My plan (not the one to take over the world and make all world divisional Leaders wear a bunny suit)
is to get a TEST Strat, (yes not a bass but i aint got a bass to play around with like that)
and have 3 x 4Bit Hex Switches hooked up to a B500K Dual Volume Pot,
Im still working out were to CUT the Pot to make it in to a 3 way Switch 0-3.3, 3.3-6.6 and 6.6-10
Ive done some but never get the cuts just in the right place, (one reason is i had two pots with different common legs)
also my Painting of Tracks SUCK, so i have brought a FINE Paint Brush (form a Art shop 99p) and some MicroFeech (Clear Plastic stuff a bit fick) in the hope to make a template, so i just brush over the Template, that is laying on top of the POTS PCB, Looking at the Common Leg and trying to work out were the cuts are needed.
I would like to Turn the POT PCB in to a True 2Bit
[url="http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=2626&pictureid=16576"]http://www.strat-tal...pictureid=16576[/url]

Figure if i could push it to the dam near Max, I could then cut it down to get a nice simple version

Edited by AngelLaHash
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  • 2 weeks later...

[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Well it brings a brightness to the sound.[/font][/color]

[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]My Test Guitar[/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I Made one Guitar so it was just PICKUPS, Toggle switch (On/Off/On) (Phase/Off/Outer Phase) and 3 Volume Pots B500K[/font][/color]


[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Bleed Test Rig [/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I made it so that the B500K for the Volume Pot (DUAL POT)[/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]and then attaches to a A500K PAINTED to be a 3 Way switch (off/On/On) (as the second part of the Dual Pot)[/font][/color]

[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I then hooked up 4Bit Switch Between (range of 0-1nF the Pickups and the Volume Out [/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]With a 100K Resister and a 200K Var Resister (100K-300K)[/font][/color]

[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]And hooked up to the A500K Painted Pot two more 4Bit Switchs with Caps (0-1nF) and (0-4nF), also added a On/Off/On Switch to turn the bleed off, with another set of Caps on the other side of the Switch. [/font][/color]


[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I am pleased at how bright it is, but feel the placement of were the Bleed comes in is a bit off. I fell maybe it should be 0-5 for the 680pF, 5-8 for the 820pF and 8-10 for the 1nF, personally. But Binary Switching works very well with this as I am getting to grips with the ways of increasing it by stages. [/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]<Im moving on, But JohnDH THANK YOU>[/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]======[/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I am going to be moving on to Making it a Part of a Bass now, Not a Bleed but a Multi Tone/MegaTone Switch[/font][/color]
[color=#1A1917][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I tried to make a MegaTone Switch as suggestioned on another site by a Nice French [/font][/color]
[font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]Last time i tried it i had a Normal Tone and a MegaTone (forgot to read OR)[/color][/size][/font]
[font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]So this time i will make a Switch so that i can toggle between the TWO as and when i like[/color][/size][/font]
[font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]I do tend to use Push/Pull Pots, so I got Two 2P2T switches there[/color][/size][/font]
[font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]By adding Two Toggle Switches to and my 4Bit Switch[/color][/size][/font]
[font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]I plan to make a Tone/MegaTone that has a range of 0,680p-15nF (in steps of 330pF) and then 15n-100nF (in steps of 3n3F)[/color][/size][/font]
[font="verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][size="2"][color="#1a1917"]Also on the MegaTone Switch, had a Fuzz effect what i'll keep in AC128 or AC176 I got to look up which one is witch :P[/color][/size][/font]

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