peted Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 I'm also hoping to pop to Homebase this week to pick up some weather-stripping to put around the baffle and back cover. My cab is going to be painted with black speaker cab 'tuff' paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_l_perry Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 [quote name='kennyrodg' post='230322' date='Jul 1 2008, 09:50 AM']I fancy a go at an Omni 10 but the electronic side of things is a bit daunting. apologies again. [/quote] Good thing about the Omni10/10.5 is that there are no electrics to talk of, no crossover, no filter components...its simple connect the woofers and piezo's directly to the speaker input socket and off you go....Piezo's don't need a crossover. Ok, you have the resistor but that just gets wired in line with the positive lead that feeds the piezo's. Wiring of the piezo's are all clearly marked up in the plans, and Bills forum is a great source of help and advice Having said all that, the other designs of Bills that do need a crossover are fairly well detailed, taking the mystery away... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KennysFord Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 thanks for that guys. i noticed the diagram for the tweeters but i missed the bit about the resistor. i'll go take another look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 [quote name='david_l_perry' post='230318' date='Jul 1 2008, 09:40 AM']I ended up using a 10w resistor on my Omni 10, Omni 15 and wedgehorn, no problems. Contact John here for all your bits n bobs:- [url="http://www.audio-components.co.uk/store/category.asp?CategoryID=2"]UK Audio components[/url][/quote] I'm building the 500 Watt Deltalite 2510 version. I'm paranoid that if I go with a resister that can handle less thermal wattage then I'm going to end up cooking it. I've ordered a 50watt 4R7 (I think that means 4.7 Ohm???) resistor to see how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamster Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 [quote name='peted' post='231283' date='Jul 2 2008, 01:14 PM']I'm building the 500 Watt Deltalite 2510 version. I'm paranoid that if I go with a resister that can handle less thermal wattage then I'm going to end up cooking it. I've ordered a 50watt 4R7 (I think that means 4.7 Ohm???) resistor to see how I get on.[/quote] With the 500 watt version it's imperative to use a flux capacitor - [url="http://www.shopneo.co.uk/flux-capacitor-free-shipping--pr-16735.html"]http://www.shopneo.co.uk/flux-capacitor-fr...--pr-16735.html[/url] - in series with the 50 watt 4R7, or else the interrossiter won't differentiate at low frequencies. Hamster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 2, 2008 Author Share Posted July 2, 2008 [quote name='Hamster' post='231290' date='Jul 2 2008, 01:30 PM']With the 500 watt version it's imperative to use a flux capacitor - [url="http://www.shopneo.co.uk/flux-capacitor-free-shipping--pr-16735.html"]http://www.shopneo.co.uk/flux-capacitor-fr...--pr-16735.html[/url] - in series with the 50 watt 4R7, or else the interrossiter won't differentiate at low frequencies. Hamster[/quote] I certainly don't need any more confusing with all this electronics malarky! To think I even followed that link to check out the component I would need. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexclaber Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 [quote name='peted' post='231283' date='Jul 2 2008, 01:14 PM']I'm building the 500 Watt Deltalite 2510 version. I'm paranoid that if I go with a resister that can handle less thermal wattage then I'm going to end up cooking it. I've ordered a 50watt 4R7 (I think that means 4.7 Ohm???) resistor to see how I get on.[/quote] As the piezos are a predominantly capacitive load and have extremely high impedance below 8kHz (very little bass energy beyond there) the resistor has to handle very little power. I believe a 10W resistor should be fine. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 Did LOADS today due to the great weather. Best bit had to be the 6 layers of tuff-paint with light sanding between each. [attachment=10456:SNC10394.JPG] [attachment=10457:SNC10395.JPG] [attachment=10458:SNC10397.JPG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 [quote name='peted' post='233291' date='Jul 5 2008, 07:59 PM']Did LOADS today due to the great weather. Best bit had to be the 6 layers of tuff-paint with light sanding between each. [attachment=10456:SNC10394.JPG] [attachment=10457:SNC10395.JPG] [attachment=10458:SNC10397.JPG][/quote] Pete, I've built one of these and I'd recommend doubling the number of screws holding the baffle board in place. I assume you've got some weather strip in there too as air leaks around the baffle are apparently a common problem. If necessary make a couple of cutouts in the back brace so you get some screws inside there too. I also found that after a few weeks it's worth opening the box up again and tightening them all again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 8, 2008 Author Share Posted July 8, 2008 [quote name='thinman' post='234625' date='Jul 7 2008, 11:44 PM']Pete, I've built one of these and I'd recommend doubling the number of screws holding the baffle board in place. I assume you've got some weather strip in there too as air leaks around the baffle are apparently a common problem. If necessary make a couple of cutouts in the back brace so you get some screws inside there too. I also found that after a few weeks it's worth opening the box up again and tightening them all again.[/quote] Thanks thinman, I'll put some more screws in the baffle this weekend. I have put weather strip around the baffle and have had air leaks at the front of my mind through-out this build. The whole thing feels like it's built like a brick sh*t-house, but I'm sure a few hours of low frequencies will shake some bits loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 13, 2008 Author Share Posted July 13, 2008 This weekend I have so nearly completed the cab. I've put some more screws into the baffle as-per recommendation from thinman. I've wired it all up - Did an initial test of the wiring with my Hartke amp and started to panic - the sound was only coming out of the piezos! Aaaaaargh! I've found from Bill's plans, he tells you exactly how to wire the piezos, and exactly how to wire the speakers, but does not actually show how to wire the piezos and speakers to each other. Just a sentence along the line of "take a wire from the piezos to the woofer". Turned out that I had mistakenly wired the drivers/woofers in series with the piezos. After scouring www.billfitzmaurice.com I read a thread which seemed to imply that the piezo's were in fact supposed to go in parallel with the drivers/woofer. Gave it a whirl and all is now fine. Phew! I've stuffed the cavities with old pillows and am about to put that cool egg-crate style foam around the interior. I bought a nice Neutrik 2-pole Speak-On connector to go on the back. I now realise that it won't fit the 4-pole plug that i've got on the cable going from my Hartke. So for the test I had to hard-wire the cable to the speakers. I have a 4-pole Speak-On connector on order from Maplins now. Expense, expense, expense... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 14, 2008 Author Share Posted July 14, 2008 This evening I am applying the final bits of paint as the weather is staying off. [attachment=10823:Image000.jpg] [attachment=10824:Image001.jpg] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.sibs Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 looking good, can i ask in total how much you think it cost to build the cab? and how much does it weigh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 I'll sit down and add up all the receipts when it's finished. I reckon it will be close to £300. I'll also weigh it when it's finished. It's not light though (and cumbersome as I haven't put any handles on it yet!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 [quote name='peted' post='239727' date='Jul 15 2008, 07:14 AM']I'll sit down and add up all the receipts when it's finished. I reckon it will be close to £300. I'll also weigh it when it's finished. It's not light though (and cumbersome as I haven't put any handles on it yet!).[/quote] Sorry for jumping in here. I built one earlier this year and reckon it came to about £220 all in. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=15187"]Omni10 build[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 Finished! Sounds rather good. Very responsive with masses of mid-range and treble, which I think is just the natural sound of my Hartke through a transparent cabinet. The low end became much thicker when I added the Aphex Bass Xciter. The volume and projection is just silly. I'm very happy and will be bringing it with me to the South East Bass Bash at the end of September. I'm not in a band at the moment, so I can't try it out in anger [attachment=10877:OMNI10_09.JPG] [attachment=10878:OMNI10_10.JPG] Costs and weigh-in will happen in the next couple of days. I haven't put handles or protective corners on it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subthumper Posted July 15, 2008 Share Posted July 15, 2008 Nice job, I'm seriously considering one of these myself. Which Hartke is it? I've been using a 3500 for about nine years and love it to bits but my old diy 1x15s are just abit too heavey and cumbersome even though they sound the biz. Was just wondering how well the cab handles the full output of the amp as the hatrke's do always seem to have plenty of headroom. Do the drivers fart out at all at high volume and low notes? Cheers Just Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 15, 2008 Author Share Posted July 15, 2008 I'm afraid I won't be able to tell you how it handles the full volume of my 3500 as I'd have the neighbours complaining 2 towns across! Suffice to say I had the master volume at 3/10 today and it was too loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilmour Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 Nice one, congratulations. [quote name='peted' post='240483' date='Jul 15 2008, 11:30 PM']Finished! Sounds rather good. Very responsive with masses of mid-range and treble, which I think is just the natural sound of my Hartke through a transparent cabinet. The low end became much thicker when I added the Aphex Bass Xciter.[/quote] You'll find that the Bass response improves over time as the Drivers 'Break In' I used to think all that stuff was a load of rubbish, but after a few gigs/rehearsals I really noticed an improvement in the bottom end. There are other methods that are quicker an more efficent at breaking in the drivers that don't involvoe just playing through it, check Bill's forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil_the_bassist Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 [quote name='Hamster' post='231290' date='Jul 2 2008, 01:30 PM']With the 500 watt version it's imperative to use a flux capacitor -[/quote] But then, if you're playin at 88mph with a 1.21 gigawatt amp, won't you travel back in time..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KennysFord Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 [quote name='phil_the_bassist' post='240947' date='Jul 16 2008, 03:21 PM']But then, if you're playin at 88mph with a 1.21 gigawatt amp, won't you travel back in time..? [/quote] was soooooooooo tempted to write something along those lines,i fought it tho' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peted Posted July 16, 2008 Author Share Posted July 16, 2008 (edited) Weight according to my bathroom scales is [b]23.3 kg[/b] or [b]51.4 lbs[/b] Total cost to build ([i]not[/i] including tools, screws, glue, labour, sandpaper, filler - as these were already provided by my father): [b]£250~[/b] I've got left overs from this build included in that cost though, so building a 2nd cab would be slightly cheaper now. Edited July 16, 2008 by peted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted July 16, 2008 Share Posted July 16, 2008 [quote name='gilmour' post='240621' date='Jul 16 2008, 09:24 AM']Nice one, congratulations. You'll find that the Bass response improves over time as the Drivers 'Break In' I used to think all that stuff was a load of rubbish, but after a few gigs/rehearsals I really noticed an improvement in the bottom end. There are other methods that are quicker an more efficent at breaking in the drivers that don't involvoe just playing through it, check Bill's forum.[/quote] +1 to that. It takes a while to play the drivers in - I reckon a good 6 hours at reasonable volume as I didn't break mine in pre-install at all but it really improved appreciably. I'm really, really pleased with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodster909 Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 thanks for putting all this up pete I'm now inspired to have ago myself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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