Is a defretted bass , as good as a fretless ?

[Dave Vader]

[quote name='Ian Savage' timestamp='1372777224' post='2129823']
What are people filling the fret slots with when de-fretting? I smell a summer project coming on...
[/quote]

I used a load of maple veneer and superglue. Worked lovely.

[fatback]

Loads of mass produced fretlesses are just defretted (or unfretted, i suppose) versions of the fretted instrument. My Yamaha BB400s for instance.

If you can't feel the fret marker it won't affect the sound.

[Fat Rich]

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1372720230' post='2129235']
If you do do a defret, remember to change the nut
[/quote]
[quote name='TimR' timestamp='1372776741' post='2129813']
Why is that?
[/quote]

The frets were approx 1 or 2 mm high, once they're gone the strings will feel too high in the nut. So you need to open out the slots a bit to get the strings closer to the finger board.

[Silvia Bluejay]

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1372786573' post='2130004']
The frets were approx 1 or 2 mm high, once they're gone the strings will feel too high in the nut. So you need to open out the slots a bit to get the strings closer to the finger board.
[/quote]

I assume not many non-Warwick basses have an adjustable nut, then? Why? (Genuine question - I'm surprised that such a clever thing is not very common.)

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1372786573' post='2130004']



The frets were approx 1 or 2 mm high, once they're gone the strings will feel too high in the nut. So you need to open out the slots a bit to get the strings closer to the finger board.
[/quote]

Or you could take off the nut and sand down the flat bottom of it to the depth required. Saves fannying around getting the nut slots right.

[TimR]

[quote name='Ian Savage' timestamp='1372777224' post='2129823']
What are people filling the fret slots with when de-fretting? I smell a summer project coming on...
[/quote]

I used plaster polyfilla. Would probably use proper wood filler if I did it again.

The proper way is to use thin strips of wood and open up the slots first with a tenon or fret saw. Then cut the strips down with a knife and sand.

[Myke]

[quote name='Ian Savage' timestamp='1372777224' post='2129823']
What are people filling the fret slots with when de-fretting? I smell a summer project coming on...
[/quote]
[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1372780536' post='2129894']
I used a load of maple veneer and superglue. Worked lovely.
[/quote]

+1 Works fantastic (except I used rosewood veneer)

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1372800720' post='2130264']



+1 Works fantastic (except I used rosewood veneer)
[/quote]

Been thinking about doing this myself. Can you still see the lines when you play? (Assuming your fingerboard is rosewood too that is. I fancy the unlined look but it would be handy to see a bit of line close up methinks)

[alyctes]

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1372786573' post='2130004']
The frets were approx 1 or 2 mm high, once they're gone the strings will feel too high in the nut. So you need to open out the slots a bit to get the strings closer to the finger board.
[/quote]

This. Makes the strings hard to play near the nut if you don't lower them a bit. Thanks Fat Rich.

[alyctes]

[quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1372786943' post='2130018']
I assume not many non-Warwick basses have an adjustable nut, then? Why? (Genuine question - I'm surprised that such a clever thing is not very common.)
[/quote]

FWIW, I didn't know before this that [u]any[/u] bass manufacturer offered an adjustable nut... thanks for the heads-up

[Silvia Bluejay]

If Warwick are the only manufacturer to offer an adjustable nut (even in their budget series), then I imagine they must have trademarked the design.

[Myke]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1372805655' post='2130318']
Been thinking about doing this myself. Can you still see the lines when you play? (Assuming your fingerboard is rosewood too that is. I fancy the unlined look but it would be handy to see a bit of line close up methinks)
[/quote]

Unfortunately I did it on a maple neck so I can't tell you for certain.

I'd have thought you would be able to though

[DorsetBlue]

[quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1372810103' post='2130345']
If Warwick are the only manufacturer to offer an adjustable nut (even in their budget series), then I imagine they must have trademarked the design.
[/quote]

I think there is a high end maker that uses them (can't remember the name). Found these on Thomann:

http://www.thomann.de/gb/abm_6240_webster_nut_bass.htm

[Dave Vader]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1372805655' post='2130318']
Been thinking about doing this myself. Can you still see the lines when you play? (Assuming your fingerboard is rosewood too that is. I fancy the unlined look but it would be handy to see a bit of line close up methinks)
[/quote]

Mine was a maple neck with maple inlays (I also filled the position dots with maple veneer to try and get an unlined look.



As you can see, it didn't really work. But it is perfectly playable, and looks just fine.

[Fat Rich]

[quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1372786943' post='2130018']
I assume not many non-Warwick basses have an adjustable nut, then? Why? (Genuine question - I'm surprised that such a clever thing is not very common.)
[/quote]

Pretty much just Warwick as far as I know. Getting the nut height right isn't something that needs to be adjusted by the player, the builder should get it right when the bass is built. Some purists may feel that because the threaded bits of the Warwick adjustable nut aren't permanently fixed to the neck you lose some sustain / tone, but it's probably negligible.

I expect Warwick have trademarked the design and they're known for going after anyone who infringes anything of theirs very aggressively.

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1372793245' post='2130140']
Or you could take off the nut and sand down the flat bottom of it to the depth required. Saves fannying around getting the nut slots right.
[/quote]

True for nuts that fit over the end of a fingerboard, but any that are slotted into the board will probably damage the lacquer getting them out.

Edited July 3, 2013 by Fat Rich

[Dave Vader]

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1372841632' post='2130475']
True for nuts that fit over the end of a fingerboard, but any that are slotted into the board will probably damage the lacquer getting them out.
[/quote]

And those with radiused bottoms. Couple of minutes with some old roundwound strings and you can file down any nut, very cheaply.

[Silvia Bluejay]

[quote name='DorsetBlue' timestamp='1372838348' post='2130429']
I think there is a high end maker that uses them (can't remember the name). Found these on Thomann:

[url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/abm_6240_webster_nut_bass.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...er_nut_bass.htm[/url]
[/quote]

Those on my Warwicks have a different design. They comprise a flat, fixed base and a slotted top piece that's mounted on the base with two screws, which can be used to raise or lower it. High-end Warwicks have brass adjustable nuts, mine are humble plastic, but they work fine.

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1372841632' post='2130475']
Pretty much just Warwick as far as I know. Getting the nut height right isn't something that needs to be adjusted by the player, the builder should get it right when the bass is built. Some purists may feel that because the threaded bits of the Warwick adjustable nut aren't permanently fixed to the neck you lose some sustain / tone, but it's probably negligible.

I expect Warwick have trademarked the design and they're known for going after anyone who infringes anything of theirs very aggressively.
[/quote]

To be honest, I don't see why adjusting the nut should be seen as less of a task that can be carried out by the player than, for instance, adjusting the truss rod or repositioning the saddles. I know that, on my Warwicks, the adjustable nut has helped me get exactly the right action everywhere, whenever I've changed strings from rounds to TIs to D'Addario Chromes. You don't get the same results, with the same ease, on other basses.

Edited July 3, 2013 by bluejay

[tauzero]

[quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1372843895' post='2130503']
Those on my Warwicks have a different design. They comprise a flat, fixed base and a slotted top piece that's mounted on the base with two screws, which can be used to raise or lower it. High-end Warwicks have brass adjustable nuts, mine are humble plastic, but they work fine.
[/quote]

The ABM ones on Thomann are very similar to the Warwick Just-A-Nut I. The Just-A-Nut II was as you describe and the JAN III seems to be a brass version of the JAN II. While a nut should really be set-and-forget, it is nice to be able to change string height at the nut easily and reversibly.

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1372841110' post='2130467']


Mine was a maple neck with maple inlays (I also filled the position dots with maple veneer to try and get an unlined look.



As you can see, it didn't really work. But it is perfectly playable, and looks just fine.

[/quote]

Yes that's a very nice job! Dave's looking very sexy there
The cream pup covers look ace with the black. Dimarzio's?

[Dave Vader]

DiMarzio covers (thanks Howard) over Wizard Trads.
I wanted it to match my beloved and ancient strat, so needed to be cream.

Thanks (I also have a picture somewhere with the black and white cat completing the set, but can't find it)

[jacko]

[quote name='bluejay' timestamp='1372810103' post='2130345']
If Warwick are the only manufacturer to offer an adjustable nut (even in their budget series), then I imagine they must have trademarked the design.
[/quote]

Alembic invented the adjustable nut back in the early 70's. Warwick pretty much ripped off the design.

[Silvia Bluejay]

Do Alembics still have an adjustable nut? That would at least make two manufacturers offering the system, out of the hundreds out there.

[jacko]

indeed they do.