Andyjr1515 Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 By the way, ref good woods for bending, etc, I can recommend walnut, I am told mahogany is also good but I understand that rosewood can be a pig. There's some decent summaries here: [url="http://www.guitarnation.com/articles/calkin.htm"]http://www.guitarnation.com/articles/calkin.htm[/url] Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 [quote name='henry norton' timestamp='1373403207' post='2137270'] HaHa! Now we're getting somewhere! You'll probably find it's easier to make a uke, guitar or any acoustic out of solid wood rather than ply. If you just want to practice on ply first the thickness won't really matter so any old sh#t will do. Once you feel a bit more confident you can get some cheapish guitar wood from [url="http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/guitar-mandolin-lute-wood-23/"]here[/url] [/quote] [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1373411258' post='2137426'] I tend to agree with Henry on this one, Myke. You might end up buying another couple of extra sides, but solid wood behaves so differently to ply, I think you are best starting as you mean to continue...that is, with real wood. I think you've seen this but the attached [url="http://www.ajrguitarmods.co.uk/swift%20iv%20acoustic.htm"]http://www.ajrguitar...%20acoustic.htm[/url] was my very first attempt at an acoustic anything and it worked out just fine. It just needs some careful thought before each action, lots of looking at YouTube clips and not being afraid to ask the clever folks here for guidance This is a great forum for the latter Andy [/quote] Hmm.. Maybe I will then, give up on the ply and order some solid wood. Now to choose.. I have no idea about what woods to choose. Price will probably play a factor here hence the reason for the build and not just buying a Kala (but also the pride of building my own) Any suggestions? Andy, I highly doubt it's going to be anywhere as good as your acoustic, that walnut is lush! And the three piece neck! And don't worry guys, any problems and this'll be my first port of call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 [quote name='Myke' timestamp='1373420419' post='2137462'] Hmm.. Maybe I will then, give up on the ply and order some solid wood. Now to choose.. I have no idea about what woods to choose. Price will probably play a factor here hence the reason for the build and not just buying a Kala (but also the pride of building my own) Any suggestions? Andy, I highly doubt it's going to be anywhere as good as your acoustic, that walnut is lush! And the three piece neck! And don't worry guys, any problems and this'll be my first port of call. [/quote] Maple or Mahogany will work very well and is much cheaper than the likes of rosewood, koa walnut etc. There's too much bullsh#t surrounding different woods especially with a set of thunky, wooly uke strings thrown into the equation. Maple and mahogany bend very nicely and maple in particular finishes beautifully without needing fillers, sealers and stuff. There are quite a few books covering bending sides and bracing fronts of guitars, most of which will apply equally to a uke type instrument - it's not too difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 I was just wondering. Does it matter how far behind the saddle the pins are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 [quote name='Myke' timestamp='1374168860' post='2146100'] I was just wondering. Does it matter how far behind the saddle the pins are? [/quote] Hi Myke It makes a difference to the bridge 'break angle' - the angle between the horizontal string in front of the saddle and the string end behind it. This in turn affects the down force on the saddle and therefore affects directly the transmission of vibrations to the soundboard. The general rule is that the pins are close to the saddle, but this means filing relief slots in front of the pins to prevent kinking the string ends. Do a google or YouTube search on acoustic bridges and you will find loads of photos and articles on this. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1374176256' post='2146195'] Hi Myke It makes a difference to the bridge 'break angle' - the angle between the horizontal string in front of the saddle and the string end behind it. This in turn affects the down force on the saddle and therefore affects directly the transmission of vibrations to the soundboard. The general rule is that the pins are close to the saddle, but this means filing relief slots in front of the pins to prevent kinking the string ends. Do a google or YouTube search on acoustic bridges and you will find loads of photos and articles on this. Andy [/quote] Ah okay, thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 So today I attempted it. I still haven't figured out the break angle thing yet but I shaped it. It may be a bit on the high side still so I may sand it down lower and I intend to have the back sloped down a bit more. [attachment=139588:WP_20130721_005.jpg] Also it's a bit lopsided but not bad for a first attempt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 And also just a little sneaky peak at it as a whole! [attachment=139589:WP_20130721_006.jpg] Bit faint but you get the jist (hopefully). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maude Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1373390304' post='2137050'] Hi, Myke Never made a bass uke but I doubt that you want to be thinner than 1.5mm... Most Ukes seem to be between 1.6mm and 2.5mm so I am sure a bass would be no thinner (and probably the upper end of that range). An acoustic guitar comes out at around 2.4mm and (I gather from the attached link) that a bass uke is similar or same scale length as a 3/4 size classical. I'm sure you can get some 2mm ply from the internet but why not go for the real thing - mahogany? It usually comes thicker so you have to plane / sand / scrape it down, or the attached idea is no bad approach - start with a second hand 3/4 classical: [url="http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Bass-Uke/"]http://www.instructa...d/DIY-Bass-Uke/[/url] 3/4 classical guitars are usually bought for younger musicians who either abandon or grow out of them - very cheap good ones can often be seen on ebay or gumtree. The advantage is that the wood will already be the correct thickness, there or thereabouts Andy [/quote] Wow! Thanks for that link on converting a classical, that's my new project. Should be really cheap depending the price of the strings It'll be perfect to take places so I can keep up with practices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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