Lord Sausage Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Here's the headstock. Still have to apply decal and then more clear coats and clear coat neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 Ok, Steve @ manchester guitar tech has advised me that i can get the adhesive off the neck with white spirit. I've just dug my white spirit out of the cupboard and it's turned yellow! What does this mean? Is it still ok to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 well i've done a few coats of primer and i guess i've ballsed up the prep. Novice and all that. I can still see the grain in places and i obviously haven't sanded it smooth enough as little dints appear everywhere. Guess that's the joy of plywood. I'm taking it to Steve Robinson @ ManchesterGuitarTec tomorrow so he can have a look and tell me how to remedy it. I am also going to pick up a bass and some more primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkHeart Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 did you use grain sealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 (edited) [quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1381436842' post='2239223'] Any tips on how to get the small amounts of adhesive left on the neck from the masking tape off. Lemon Oil? Sanding? [/quote] White Spirit Woops. Beaten to it. Edited October 18, 2013 by Grangur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 [quote name='DarkHeart' timestamp='1382107860' post='2248128'] did you use grain sealer? [/quote]No, starting to realise that maybe i should of! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1382108443' post='2248143'] White Spirit Woops. Beaten to it. [/quote]Done it. My neck now stinks! My bass neck that is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Showed Steve today. Basically i've gotta essentially squeegee wood filler into all the grain bits then sand back. I'll put a pre and post pic up so you can see how not to do it. haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 OK, here are the pics of the body after a can and a half of primer and the grain is still showing. [attachment=147326:IMG_20131025_113013.jpg] [attachment=147327:IMG_20131025_113000.jpg] [attachment=147330:IMG_20131025_112955.jpg] and here are the pics after i'd squeggeed loads of wood filler into it. [attachment=147329:IMG_20131025_131428.jpg] [attachment=147331:IMG_20131025_131349 (1).jpg] Since then I've sanded it all down and re primered. Gotta flat a bit of then add final coat. I will put pics up when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 When you're sanding the wood, sand in the direction of the grain. Also finish off the sanding using a really fine paper. Ideally you need 320 grit ro finer. It needs to feel really smooth and silky before you start any spraying at all. After tbe first coat of primer get a slightly damp cloth and wipe it over and see if the cloth misses any bits. If it does, these may be dimples that need filling before you go on. I'm only saying this in case its not been said and it might saxe you work. It looks like you're having a tough time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1383291044' post='2262558'] When you're sanding the wood, sand in the direction of the grain. Also finish off the sanding using a really fine paper. Ideally you need 320 grit ro finer. It needs to feel really smooth and silky before you start any spraying at all. After tbe first coat of primer get a slightly damp cloth and wipe it over and see if the cloth misses any bits. If it does, these may be dimples that need filling before you go on. I'm only saying this in case its not been said and it might saxe you work. It looks like you're having a tough time. [/quote]cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 It should be about 7-8 degrees celsius outside later. Is this to cold to spray nitro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) [quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1385457084' post='2288369'] It should be about 7-8 degrees celsius outside later. Is this to cold to spray nitro? [/quote] Probably. You need the air to be warm an dry. I'd leave it. Better to take your time on this. If you spray when it's too cold and damp it'll get a white milky bloom in the paint/lacquer. And.. if the White spirit is only for removing tape, cleaning brushes etc, it's still ok if it's yellow. Edited December 1, 2013 by Grangur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1385927926' post='2293763'] Probably. You need the air to be warm an dry. I'd leave it. Better to take your time on this. If you spray when it's too cold and damp it'll get a white milky bloom in the paint/lacquer. And.. if the White spirit is only for removing tape, cleaning brushes etc, it's still ok if it's yellow. [/quote] Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 I've been looking at pickups and haerdware etc for the bass. I think I'm gonna get some Dimarzio pick ups. I emailed them to check what pots to get for volume and tone. They said just make sure i use 500k resistance for vol and 250k for tone. All audio taper.What does that mean? (the audio taper bit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Most pots are either "linear" or "Logarithmic" otherwise known as "Taper". If a pot is linear and valued at 100ohms, then if you turn it 10% it will be at 90ohms. A taper pot won't. The value will be changed by a small amount at one end of the pot's value at one end, or a large amount at the other end. You can read more [url="http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm"]here[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1386140687' post='2296225'] Most pots are either "linear" or "Logarithmic" otherwise known as "Taper". If a pot is linear and valued at 100ohms, then if you turn it 10% it will be at 90ohms. A taper pot won't. The value will be changed by a small amount at one end of the pot's value at one end, or a large amount at the other end. You can read more [url="http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm"]here[/url] [/quote]Thanks, that helps as i was looking on thomann and they had 500k audio taper but only a push/pull 250k. so now i know i can just get a 250k log pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 Right i've bloody done it. Painted and clear coated. It's Inca Silver. Just waiting for decal for headstock and flatting and buffing gear to show up from Rothko and Frost, then at the end of the month i'll do all that and stick it together. hopefully it will be done mid Jan. Here's some probably rubbish pics. [attachment=149904:20131205_140756.jpg] [attachment=149905:20131205_140829.jpg] [attachment=149906:20131205_140846.jpg] [attachment=149907:20131205_140859.jpg] It's not the perfect paint job but i'm very happy as it's my first go and i'm usually sh*t at stuff like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Don't forget to get a good coat of lacquer on it when it's finished, then t-cut it back to get a good shine on it. It's looking good though. Well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1386271527' post='2298152'] Don't forget to get a good coat of lacquer on it when it's finished, then t-cut it back to get a good shine on it. It's looking good though. Well done! [/quote]Cheers! It has got a good coat of lacquer. Used a full can! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) My decal arrived today. I put it on which was a bitch for a clumsy bugger like me. Then i was admiring it I realised it had been printed wrong. New one arriving tomorrow. Anyway, when flatting down with wet sandpaper, going thru the grades getting read to buff, how do you do it? Do you apply as much pressure as when normally block sanding or do you do it lighter and get lighter with the grades? Also, do you still use a sanding block on the neck or just wet sandpaper in my hand? Cheers Edited December 13, 2013 by Lord Sausage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) By using sand paper in your hand, each finger applies a different pressure to the sandpaper, so the sanding is uneven. The purpose of a sanding block is to make sure your pressure applied to the sandpaper is applied evenly over the contact surface. The pressure applied to the finer grades can be about the same as to the rougher grades. I don't use wet and dry. Using wet abrasive paper lets water soak into the wood, making some areas swell and stand higher and gives you uneven sanding of the wood. As far as the decal is concerned - serves you right. I don't agree with faking instruments, there's enough rip-off sharks in world without you becoming one too. But that's just me. Edit: If you built a custom kit car would you stick a Ford logo on the bonnet? It's the same thing IMHO. Edited December 13, 2013 by Grangur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 [quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1386253618' post='2297751'] Right i've bloody done it. Painted and clear coated. It's Inca Silver. Just waiting for decal for headstock and flatting and buffing gear to show up from Rothko and Frost, then at the end of the month i'll do all that and stick it together. hopefully it will be done mid Jan. Here's some probably rubbish pics. [attachment=149904:20131205_140756.jpg] [attachment=149905:20131205_140829.jpg] [attachment=149906:20131205_140846.jpg] [attachment=149907:20131205_140859.jpg] It's not the perfect paint job but i'm very happy as it's my first go and i'm usually sh*t at stuff like this. [/quote] Looks much much better than my first attempt! This is looking very good. By the way, don't worry too much about the plywood - I had an Epiphone Les Paul Junior 6 string which, when I pimped it, realised was plywood. One of the best sounding guitars I've ever owned! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1386957760' post='2306878'] By using sand paper in your hand, each finger applies a different pressure to the sandpaper, so the sanding is uneven. The purpose of a sanding block is to make sure your pressure applied to the sandpaper is applied evenly over the contact surface. The pressure applied to the finer grades can be about the same as to the rougher grades. I don't use wet and dry. Using wet abrasive paper lets water soak into the wood, making some areas swell and stand higher and gives you uneven sanding of the wood. As far as the decal is concerned - serves you right. I don't agree with faking instruments, there's enough rip-off sharks in world without you becoming one too. But that's just me. Edit: If you built a custom kit car would you stick a Ford logo on the bonnet? It's the same thing IMHO. [/quote]Er! The decal said my surname and the name and date of the tour I've been doing this year and next, not Fender. If I made something i'd make sure everyone knew i did it. Believe! I do have an ego! Thanks for the other advice tho! Edited December 13, 2013 by Lord Sausage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sausage Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1386965353' post='2307036'] Looks much much better than my first attempt! This is looking very good. By the way, don't worry too much about the plywood - I had an Epiphone Les Paul Junior 6 string which, when I pimped it, realised was plywood. One of the best sounding guitars I've ever owned! Andy [/quote] Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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