Best glue for ukuleles?

[MiltyG565]

Honest question - Got a uke, and the neck has come off, but it's fine, because apparently it was just glued on top of the body with a dowel in the neck and the block at the top of the body, so nothing major, I just need to make a new dowel (slightly wider and longer, I reckon) and glue it back on, but what sort of glue should I use? Me being me, I would use any glue I could get. I would think something like contact glue would hold the bugger in place for eternity, but then I though about the finish, and how that would actually look when I've finished working at it.

Hide glue, that's what's used in guitars and stuff, isn't it? But where would I find something like that?

All help appreciated. Thanks

[gary mac]

Milty, I would think a good quality wood glue should do the trick.

I've achieved some very strong repairs, using Evostik Wood Glue.

[MiltyG565]

But it's kind of between 2 finished surfaces (not open grain), do you think it will still work as well?

[BigRedX]

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1375872573' post='2166661']
But it's kind of between 2 finished surfaces (not open grain), do you think it will still work as well?
[/quote]

That's probably why the joint has failed in the first place. I would carefully scrape the finish off just shy of the edges of the joint, clean the bare wood surfaces and then any good modern wood glue should do the trick.

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1375872785' post='2166665']
That's probably why the joint has failed in the first place. I would carefully scrape the finish off just shy of the edges of the joint, clean the bare wood surfaces and then any good modern wood glue should do the trick.
[/quote]

Well, the glue that was there is still on the body, just not the neck. It's odd. I'll take the sanding paper to it later on

[BigRedX]

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1375872950' post='2166671']
Well, the glue that was there is still on the body, just not the neck. It's odd. I'll take the sanding paper to it later on
[/quote]

Get rid of all the old glue first and then if you can remove the finish in the area where the joint occurs. From your description I would suspect that the part of the finish has come away with the glued surface which is why the joint has failed. The finish probably hasn't adhered to the wood properly so this is the point at which the joint has separated. I can't stress the need for a good wood joint to be clean of foreign substances.

[Dad3353]

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1375877069' post='2166764']...I can't stress the need for a good wood joint to be clean of foreign substances.[/quote]

Racist..!

[attachment=140986:Aha.jpg]

[Mr. Foxen]

Titebond is good general glue for guitars. Polyurethane (PU) is messy but super strong and the joint doesn't need to be super flush. If you want a small amount of hide glue, you can use powder gelatin intended for cooking, same stuff, just much more expensive weight for weight, but comes in smaller amounts, but that needs a perfect mechanical join, as it has no gap filling properties at all.

[Dave Vader]

I used titebond to glue a neck back on to an old archtop last year, and it's held up really very nicely apparently.

Oh, I had to glue the headstock back on as well after that came off too, really good stuff. Sorts out a lofted archtop nicely.

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1375877069' post='2166764']
Get rid of all the old glue first and then if you can remove the finish in the area where the joint occurs. From your description I would suspect that the part of the finish has come away with the glued surface which is why the joint has failed. The finish probably hasn't adhered to the wood properly so this is the point at which the joint has separated. I can't stress the need for a good wood joint to be clean of foreign substances.
[/quote]

It actually adhered to the finished surface very well, it was the open pore bits that seemed to fail. The glue is still on the finish, although it isn't on the part of the neck that's unfinished.

I've bought some 2 part epoxy. I was going to use wood glue, but I don't ever want that puppy to come off.

[Roland Rock]

I did a repair just like this on a dulcimer recently. I used Titebond 2.

A couple of tips: don't get too overzealous with the sanding when removing the old glue, as it's possible it will go out of square, and then you'll either have a wonky headstock or a compromised joint. I used a disc sander with a 90 degree bed and fence.

Also, clamping can be fun when the objects are irregularly shaped. I had to shape a piece of MDF specially to hold the headstock securely.


This is where I had filled in the old two dowels and drilled holes for four new ones, for added strength


Surface cleaned up, and dowels glued in


Clamping up an awkward shape:


Hope it goes well

[MiltyG565]

Thanks for that! Unfortunately, I don't have quite the setup that you do, but I always try to make the best with what I have. I bought some tools and materials earlier for it though. I would be incredibly upset with myself if I wrecked it, so I am being very careful to do it well. I've cleaned up the old material, although I'll probably do a little more fine sanding/scraping on it tomorrow. I'll set the neck on then and see if everything is still in line, and if it all looks good, I'll glue it up!

(Also, do you build doors and/or windows? That's one of the finer aspects of joiner that I wanted to get in to, but never did. Making bespoke worktops was actually what I wanted to do.)

[Roland Rock]

No worries, I'm sure you'll do,a good job, armed with a few choice tools and a a cautious attitude!

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1375921323' post='2167574']
(Also, do you build doors and/or windows? That's one of the finer aspects of joiner that I wanted to get in to, but never did. Making bespoke worktops was actually what I wanted to do.)
[/quote]

Technically, I'm a cabinet maker in that I don't (usually) do any fitted stuff; I just design/make to design free-standing furniture like tables, chairs, benches, TV cabinets etc.

Obviously I make cabinet doors, and have only made big doors (oak ledge and brace type) once. I've never made windows :-(

Edited August 8, 2013 by Roland Rock

[yorks5stringer]

Titebond is what Luthiers use, the reason being it is stronger than wood once set but can be taking apart again with the application of steam. Anything acoustic will eventually need the neck resetting so glue and clamp!

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1375941245' post='2167606']

Technically, I'm a cabinet maker in that I don't (usually) do any fitted stuff; I just design/make to design free-standing furniture like tables, chairs, benches, TV cabinets etc.

Obviously I make cabinet doors, and have only made big doors (oak ledge and brace type) once. I've never made windows :-(
[/quote]

I would have loved to do such refined work! I just needed to refine my skills! But that's the kind of thing I'm interested in. Site joinery is alright, but there was too much pressure to do things as fast as you could, and as well as you could, and it could be a real drag some days when you're out in the middle of nowhere on the coldest day of the year.


[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1375950962' post='2167707']
Titebond is what Luthiers use, the reason being it is stronger than wood once set but can be taking apart again with the application of steam. Anything acoustic will eventually need the neck resetting so glue and clamp!
[/quote]

So you reckon I shouldn't use 2 part epoxy then? I don't think the neck will ever need taken off again. It doesn't have a truss rod or anything like that. I can't see it being taken off really, especially not by it's owner.

[paul_5]

Uhukelele.

Getting coat.

[Dave Vader]

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1375959196' post='2167846']
I don't think the neck will ever need taken off again. It doesn't have a truss rod or anything like that. I can't see it being taken off really, especially not by it's owner.
[/quote]

Trouble with acoustic instruments, particularly those without truss rods is that as the neck moves all on its own over time, you can't readjust it with a truss rod, or shim it and bolt it back on. So taking it off and resetting it for optimum performance/action is the only option. If it happens to this one 20 years down the line, and a luthier gets his hands on it for such a job, he won't thank you for aralditing the thing in. Titebond is your friend, it is excellent stuff.

[yorks5stringer]

Yep, epoxy can take a lump of wood off with it when you prise it apart. Having watched an experienced Luthier struggle to take off many a Martin and Gibson neck with steam injected into the fingerboard around the neck joint, you wouldn't want to make it even more difficult with epoxy. Like I said, if you are concerned about a well glued joint, Titebond is actually stronger than the wood it glues, once set.

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1375967996' post='2168037']
Yep, epoxy can take a lump of wood off with it when you prise it apart. Having watched an experienced Luthier struggle to take off many a Martin and Gibson neck with steam injected into the fingerboard around the neck joint, you wouldn't want to make it even more difficult with epoxy. Like I said, if you are concerned about a well glued joint, Titebond is actually stronger than the wood it glues, once set.
[/quote]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking, I just don't want it to come apart again, besides anything else, I don't want it to look like I can't fix it. And I think most glues are stronger than wood. Let's just be thankful I wasn't talking about grip-filling it on, because when grip-fill goes on, it never comes off. The uke would decompose and there would still be a lump of grip-fill holding together 2 decaying bits of timber


[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1375967417' post='2168019']
Trouble with acoustic instruments, particularly those without truss rods is that as the neck moves all on its own over time, you can't readjust it with a truss rod, or shim it and bolt it back on. So taking it off and resetting it for optimum performance/action is the only option. If it happens to this one 20 years down the line, and a luthier gets his hands on it for such a job, he won't thank you for aralditing the thing in. Titebond is your friend, it is excellent stuff.
[/quote]

Thanks for that! I hadn't considered that the neck would move over time. I was more concerned about glueing it on properly so that the action is good and it plays well. There's definitely a lot of room for error, in either way. It seems that I could make the action too high as to be unplayable, or too low, so the strings ride over the frets. I'm just going to be careful with this. Even though it hasn't cost him anything, I would like to give him a really nice uke to play. And it's his birthday at the weekend too, but it looks unlikely that it will be done by then now.

[Maude]

I had to re-glue the fingerboard on my doublebass and looked into different glues, it seemed the only real option was hide glue so it can be seperated in the future if needed, also hide is much more 'creep' resistant than pva. It looked a real pain to do all that mixing up and cooking the glue, too high or too low a temperature and the joint is weaker blah blah blah, then I found Titebond liquid hide glue, just use is like normal pva, clamp and leave for a 24hrs. The cheapest I found it was a deal for two 8oz bottles, it has a sell by date of next August and I'll never use it all by then, send me your address and I'll post a bottle over to you, just leave me a bit of nice feedback in my feedback thread .

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1376128201' post='2169942']
I had to re-glue the fingerboard on my doublebass and looked into different glues, it seemed the only real option was hide glue so it can be seperated in the future if needed, also hide is much more 'creep' resistant than pva. It looked a real pain to do all that mixing up and cooking the glue, too high or too low a temperature and the joint is weaker blah blah blah, then I found Titebond liquid hide glue, just use is like normal pva, clamp and leave for a 24hrs. The cheapest I found it was a deal for two 8oz bottles, it has a sell by date of next August and I'll never use it all by then, send me your address and I'll post a bottle over to you, just leave me a bit of nice feedback in my feedback thread .
[/quote]

Wow, really? Thanks very much!

[Maude]

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1376129183' post='2169955']
Wow, really? Thanks very much!
[/quote]

That's quite alright, it'll only go to waste and I'll be due some good karma afterwards .
Message me your address and I'll get it sorted, it'll probably be Monday now though as Cornwall shuts for the weekend.

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1376133586' post='2170019']
That's quite alright, it'll only go to waste and I'll be due some good karma afterwards .
Message me your address and I'll get it sorted, it'll probably be Monday now though as Cornwall shuts for the weekend.
[/quote]

I'll just pop some good karma into an envelope for you, and send it off as payment

PM on it's way

[Maude]

The glue's on it's merry way

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1376327387' post='2172207']
The glue's on it's merry way
[/quote]

PMd