Truss rod not broken right?!

[Greggo]

Got a new bass recently in a trade and was looking to tighten a bit as there is perhaps a little bit too much relief but when putting the Allen key in it was very tight and I notice it looks like it's sitting on the wood so nigh on impossible to move.

Please tell me it's not broken and just maxed out?

[geoffbyrne]

Try loosening it.

G.

[MiltyG565]

It could be broken, unfortunately. The only way to know is to slacken it off, and see if there's any difference. If there, is, congratulations! It isn't broken. Bad news is that it is bent. There's a guy on YouTube, his YouTube os called something like Davy5546 (Dave's World of Fun Stuff) and he fixed a couple of bent truss rods a few months back. It might be worth your while finding those videos and watching them. If you don't want to try it though, you could just bring it to a tech. They'll be able to give you a proper diagnosis (I'm just speculating on the information provided) and if it's fixable, I'm sure they'll fix it for you

[Greggo]

Thanks for the info. I had another look last night and it isnt quite sitting on the wood like i thought, it just looks very close, like a hair width away. Managed to get 1/4 turn clockwise out of it, but it was hard going. Im wondering if its just at the end of its travel.

Definitely not going to try my luck any more, will just live with it as is, the 1/4 turn seems to have lessened the bow a little bit anyway.

[MiltyG565]

You'd be best to get it sorted, I reckon. It might be at the end of it's travel, but that shouldn't be anything less than having your fretboard flat, so there's something not right with it, whatever way you look at it.

[Greggo]

In case the nuts just seized a bit, what is a good lubricant that is safe to use on it? Can a sprit of WD40 work using the straw to direct it or is is that a no no

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375873402' post='2166684']
In case the nuts just seized a bit, what is a good lubricant that is safe to use on it? Can a sprit of WD40 work using the straw to direct it or is is that a no no
[/quote]

Some people don't like WD40, but I'd imagine it's fine, as long as you can apply it neatly! Remember that it will seep into the grain of your instrument if you just go squirting it in there, and that's not such a good idea. If it were me, I'd take the nut off completely, and put a little bit of grease in there with a little cocktail stick or something, then screw it back on. That should last forever.

[Greggo]

Might be daft question but how would the nut be taken off? With an adjustable spanner with the neck off?

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375875888' post='2166735']
Might be daft question but how would the nut be taken off? With an adjustable spanner with the neck off?
[/quote]

Depends on what kind of nut is on it, but if you loosen it, then just keep loosening it, it should eventually just come off the thread, and you can lift it out then, put a little bit of grease in it, and screw it back on. Careful though, if you have string tension on it, the end of the thread might just disappear into the truss rod channel, so take the strings off first!

[Beedster]

I'd not try any of the above until I'd tried some lighter strings on it
C

[stingrayPete1977]

Also as a car tinkerer you say grease Milty but Jeez grease can set like rock! I would get some WD40 down there first then and only then use copper grease if you feel it needs it as it does not set like regular greases. If you get the nut off then just spray the thread of that with WD40 and run it up and down a few times.

[Greggo]

Thanks for help. Had another go tonight of loosening it and it is doesn't really budge in either direction, so last chance saloon will try WD40 if that no worky, then it's probably a repair job (at some point). Still I'm happy with the bass and warts and all was a good trade.

[Beedster]

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375904000' post='2167282']
Thanks for help. Had another go tonight of loosening it and it is doesn't really budge in either direction, so last chance saloon will try WD40 if that no worky, then it's probably a repair job (at some point). Still I'm happy with the bass and warts and all was a good trade.
[/quote]

Lighter strings

[JapanAxe]

Definitely don't drench it with WD40! You should be able to remove the nut completely. Even if it's at the end of its travel, you may be able to get a bit more effect out of it by fitting a suitable washer. Have you checked the gauge of strings on there? You can do this with a micrometer or vernier caliper. A lighter and/or lower gauge string should give you less neck relief. Any pics?

Edited August 7, 2013 by JapanAxe

[Greggo]

They are new strings that I put on, 45 - 105 but previous owner had same guage on too. Maybe should have gone with 40 - 100s. If lighter strings were put on and there is still the same bow is that a duff rod?

[Beedster]

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375905646' post='2167334']
If lighter strings were put on and there is still the same bow...?
[/quote]

I've never known that to happen

[mart]

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375905646' post='2167334']
They are new strings that I put on, 45 - 105 but previous owner had same guage on too. Maybe should have gone with 40 - 100s. If lighter strings were put on and there is still the same bow is that a duff rod?
[/quote]
[i]thinner[/i] strings does not always mean less tension in the neck, or not enough to make a noticeable difference.

I'd loosen the strings and see if the neck settles down to something relatively flat, and then tighten the trussrod (a little) in that position. As it is, you're tightening it against the tension that the strings are creating. Slacken them, and it should be easier to adjust. Alternatively, Stew-Mac recommend clamping the neck into the position you want (with the strings at tension, I think) and adjusting the rod then.

[Beedster]

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1375906335' post='2167355']
[i]thinner[/i] strings does not always mean less tension in the neck, or not enough to make a noticeable difference.

I'd loosen the strings and see if the neck settles down to something relatively flat, and then tighten the trussrod (a little) in that position. As it is, you're tightening it against the tension that the strings are creating. Slacken them, and it should be easier to adjust. Alternatively, Stew-Mac recommend clamping the neck into the position you want (with the strings at tension, I think) and adjusting the rod then.
[/quote]

Good point re tension, so yes, slacken off the existing strings and evaluate any change before buying lighter/lower tension set.

[stingrayPete1977]

I presume everyone else is the same in that my necks have required the most tension ever due to this current weather, I have actually only tightened my classic to gig standard as I know they will all go back soon. As long as its ok now you should be ok and might even be slackening it off in a couple of months, a washer might be a worthy addition though.

[JapanAxe]

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1375906335' post='2167355']
[i]thinner[/i] strings does not always mean less tension in the neck, or not enough to make a noticeable difference.
[/quote]

True, but check out and compare the quoted string tensions on any of the 'Family Tension Guides' accessible form each range's page on the D'Addario site - e.g [url="http://www.daddario.com/DADProductFamily.Page?ActiveID=3768&familyid=18"]this[/url].

[Mr. Foxen]

If you do go for grease vaseline is happy, shouldn't really get it on the wood though, its ok on your skin, generally favour stuff wlike that on instruments due to handling.

[Greggo]

This is going to sound bit dim, but I managed to sort it - by removing the plastic cover in the cavity where rod nut is, it gave me more wriggle room to fit Allen key in and turn it 1/4 turn. Truss rod is not about the headstock end but where neck meets body and I realised that I couldn't reasonably turn the Allen that much with the cover in place even if I could fit key in...

Are you meant to remove this bit anyway..?

(plays better now btw!)

Edited August 7, 2013 by Greggo

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1375895559' post='2167125']
Also as a car tinkerer you say grease Milty but Jeez grease can set like rock! I would get some WD40 down there first then and only then use copper grease if you feel it needs it as it does not set like regular greases. If you get the nut off then just spray the thread of that with WD40 and run it up and down a few times.
[/quote]

WD40 tends to dry out I find. What I was going to mention though was candle wax. My old tech teacher said it was the best thing for greasing door hinges, and he was the type of guy who would know. And it has the added benefit of never going hard, or drying up!

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375913352' post='2167491']
This is going to sound bit dim, but I managed to sort it - by removing the plastic cover in the cavity where rod nut is, it gave me more wriggle room to fit Allen key in and turn it 1/4 turn. Truss rod is not about the headstock end but where neck meets body and I realised that I couldn't reasonably turn the Allen that much with the cover in place even if I could fit key in...

Are you meant to remove this bit anyway..?

(plays better now btw!)
[/quote]

Ah, your adjustment is at the heel of the neck! Yes, they are tricky to get at, and plenty of people actually slacken the screws on the neck to get at it properly. So long as you can make the adjustment, and everything can go back together the way it was, do whatever you need to! Fender and fender style basses were designed to be easily repaired, and even if you do break something, there's a huge amount of parts on the market for buttons.

[MiltyG565]

If the chap wants to play a certain gauge, I think his bass needs to work for that. He shouldn't have to change his string preference to play the bass, it's the other way about, I reckon.