clauster Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Hi guys, You're hanging around in Repairs and Techincal so i really hope I get some good pointers - I'm looking to a build a "bitsa" Fender. But not just any bitsa. I play rock, punk, ska and soul/RnB (think Tamla/Stax 60s not Motown 70s/80s or anything that's passed as RnB since). I want a Fender. I've never got on with Precision necks, yet I've never managed to get a good sound out of a fretted Jazz. I'd love a YOB (1969) bass but I cannot justify the price of a vintage Fender. So the compromise is Precision body, Jazz neck, as close as poss to '69 spec. Choices I've made so far - Warmoth alder Precision body - For me, rightly or wrongly, Warmoth make the best bodies. I can get the wood I want (I believe alder was prominent in '69). Mightymite Jazz neck - The feedback seems to be that Warmoth neck profiles aren't "right". So lets save some money and get something well regarded but at a third of the price. Unless someone can recommend a period correct profile J neck with some nice figuring for less that £300? Pickup - Jason Lollar. I don't care what anyone says, this is the best sounding P pickup to my ears. Yes, Fralins, Wizard, SD etc are all excellent, but this is my personal choice. Electronics - CTS, orange-drop and a standard jack (unless anyone knows better?). Strap buttons - Schaller locks. Not right (at all) but I love 'em and the holes will still be in the right place. Now I need your help (from top down) - Machine heads - what should I be looking for to get as close as possible to what Fender were using in '69? If it can't be achieved, I'll use standard machines (lollipop or clover?), but can I get I get a template for '69? I'd drill to screw holes, plug them and then drill and fit modern ones. Strap button on headstock - still present in '69? Fret wire size - what were Fender using then? A new Mightymite with an immediate refret is still cheaper than a Warmoth/Allparts. Pickuard - 3-ply? Black, tort, white, mint? Knobs - I'm assuming flat-top knurled chrome? Ashtray/finger rest holes - I don't want ashtrays or a tugbar, but I do want an appearance of having come with them. Can I find a template for drilling period correct holes? Finish/cosmetics - Nitro or (I think) poly? What colours were in the P range in '69? I like back or white (should I go Olymic/Arctic/Vintage) and a couple of custom colours: Lake Placid Blue and Shoreline Gold, but were these options in 69? Would they have been sprayed over an existing finish? if so, what? I'm thinking the traditional 70's headstock logo was in use in '69? I'm not planning on building a "ringer". Neck pocket and neck heel will be marked as my personal tribute. No relicing. No attempts to deceive. I'm just hoping to achieve something close to Custom Shop spec at my YOB bitsa spec and at a price to fit my pocket. Thanks for any advice, Nic . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Forgot to ask about bridge? I'm assuming standard five hole is correct? I'm actually tempted to go Badass II, but if I go perios, should it have the barrel type saddles or the screw thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Had some great replies by PM. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Duck Dunn and, I believe, George Porter Jr just put a Jazz neck on a P body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 Good point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iiipopes Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Above about Duck Dunn and putting a Jazz neck on a Precision. The tuners would have been the old-fashioned large "elephant ear" tuners. But why? They are so heavy and cause neck dive. Even with the rest of your setup, I'd go with lightweight tuners to save about a quarter kilogram of weight. That doesn't sound like much until it pulls on your shoulder for three hours. The bridge would be a simple stamped-steel bridge with either the bolt stock saddles or grooved saddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 This isn't particularly constructive, but I think the Mighty Mite necks have the plastic truss cover at the neck. That looks so wrong to me... Sorry :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 More constructive: have a word with The Bass Doc to see if he has something more 'correct' in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 [quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1376762465' post='2178875'] This isn't particularly constructive, but I think the Mighty Mite necks have the plastic truss cover at the neck. That looks so wrong to me... Sorry :-( [/quote] No need to apologise. That's exactly the sort of detail that would p155 me right off once I'd finished the project and realised the mistake a few weeks later. Thanks for the pointer. [quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1376762520' post='2178878'] More constructive: have a word with The Bass Doc to see if he has something more 'correct' in stock. [/quote] An excellent suggestion. Thanks WoT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 [quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1376761156' post='2178850'] Above about Duck Dunn and putting a Jazz neck on a Precision. The tuners would have been the old-fashioned large "elephant ear" tuners. But why? They are so heavy and cause neck dive. Even with the rest of your setup, I'd go with lightweight tuners to save about a quarter kilogram of weight. That doesn't sound like much until it pulls on your shoulder for three hours. The bridge would be a simple stamped-steel bridge with either the bolt stock saddles or grooved saddles. [/quote] Cheers, I've been told grooved saddles are definitely the way to go. I get your point about the tuners, but if I was playing three hour sets I'd get a lighter all round bass for that. My goal is to build a '69 spec bitsa, just so that I've finally got "my" bass even though it'll be worth next to nothing to the next man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiliwailer Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 [quote name='clauster' timestamp='1376764320' post='2178902'] Cheers, I've been told grooved saddles are definitely the way to go. I get your point about the tuners, but if I was playing three hour sets I'd get a lighter all round bass for that. My goal is to build a '69 spec bitsa, just so that I've finally got "my" bass even though it'll be worth next to nothing to the next man [/quote] Nice idea mate. I have an all original '69 P Bass, feel free to pm me if you have any remaining questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yepmop Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 For my 62 ish P-Bass build bridge I bought a used 62 RI and replaced the barrels from all parts [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/guitar-bass-parts-general/bridges-parts-tailpieces/bridge-parts/saddles-for-bass/bass-bridge-barrels-vintage-style-4-p-2019.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/guitar-bass-parts/guitar-bass-parts-general/bridges-parts-tailpieces/bridge-parts/saddles-for-bass/bass-bridge-barrels-vintage-style-4-p-2019.html[/url] and it looked really good and quite cheap,. I used a Mighty Mite neck and although the plastic cover does look odd you get used to it, but these necks are fantastic. I also bought genuine Fender 60s reverse tuning Machine heads and had to drill extra holes for the posts which was a little awkward. heres the link to my 62ish build [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/202190-62ish-precision-build/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/202190-62ish-precision-build/page__fromsearch__1[/url] I've since replaced the scratchplate for a more authentic looking one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 I think mighty mite is the way to go for me as they offer the best vfm. Id like to go Warmoth, but theyre nearly four times the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 [quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1377149667' post='2183910'] I have an all original '69 P Bass, feel free to pm me if you have any remaining questions. [/quote] Thanks, may well take you up on that offer in coming months Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69precision Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Some thoughts from my Feb '69 'P' as seen in my avator. Smiley from 1970, not acid house scene! No strap button on head Poly finish on body and neck, Nitro on the head face 'A' width neck common, as per Jazz, mine's one and a doddle to play Tort scratch plate 3 tone Sunburst common colour Large machines work in normal sense Body very light Plastic tug bar Grooved saddles Metalised paper as earth return on T&V circuit to save wiring, wore out in a month and is now hard wired Neck pocket 1/4" out of allignment from new 'E' bridge saddle intonation screw too short with height adjustment screw actually in the bridge hold down screw head Foam strip stuck under bridge ashtray as a mute Hope that helps. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Bolton Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 The tuners you'd need for a '69 style would be these ones: This style was used from '66-'82 (approx), so make sure you don't get the reverse-gear tuners as they wouldn't be period-correct. Also I agree with WoT, the Mighty Might necks are good but they have headstock truss rod access, so it would be a case of how "correct" you want it to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 I think, based on budget and the fact I don't want this to end up being another box-of-bits-under-the-spare-bed-that-will-eventually-get-sold, I am going to go for a Mightymite neck just to get the thing done in as short a space of time as poss. Then in time get a more correct neck to finish it properly (the finished Warmoth necks come in at a few hundred pound more than the Mightymites) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yepmop Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 [quote name='clauster' timestamp='1377605120' post='2189257'] I think, based on budget and the fact I don't want this to end up being another box-of-bits-under-the-spare-bed-that-will-eventually-get-sold, I am going to go for a Mightymite neck just to get the thing done in as short a space of time as poss. Then in time get a more correct neck to finish it properly (the finished Warmoth necks come in at a few hundred pound more than the Mightymites) [/quote] This is the exact dilemma i faced and went the MM route the question I asked myself is the Warmoth/All parts neck really £200 better than the MM? I was going to save up for a period correct neck but now decided not to as I like the bass the way it is at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Bolton Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 (edited) [quote name='yepmop' timestamp='1377606586' post='2189281'] This is the exact dilemma i faced and went the MM route the question I asked myself is the Warmoth/All parts neck really £200 better than the MM? I was going to save up for a period correct neck but now decided not to as I like the bass the way it is at the moment. [/quote] I put together a Jazz a few years ago and I had an Allparts neck on it to begin with, and I ended up selling it and replaced it with a cheaper Mighty Mite neck as it was much nicer and about half the price. Edited August 27, 2013 by Jono Bolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 That's the thing, I've heard nothing but good things about Mighty Mite necks. Still want the Warmoth body though as I can choose from the showcase by weight Was '69 a transitional period for paint? I've had a PM saying that their 69 body is nitro' finished and a post above saying theirs is poly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregBass Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 I have a bitsa bass with a Mighty Mite neck. Can't fault it. If you go here you can have any decal you want as well: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bluebass320/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 Cheers Greg, I've yet to hear a bad thing about Mighty Mite necks The decals have got my thinking too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molan Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 There's some evidence to say that a few '69's had the extended G saddle on the bridge. It's generally believed to be an 'early '70's' thing but I was reading up on this for someone recently and found a source saying that Fender first introduced them in '69 and not '70. It's not really a big deal but might be a nice little touch if you haven't already sourced a bridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauster Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 Cheers Molan, I'm more set on getting the body end right from the start. Not bought anything yet, but will be starting next month once back from Holiday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiliwailer Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 [quote name='clauster' timestamp='1378054430' post='2195186'] Cheers Molan, I'm more set on getting the body end right from the start. Not bought anything yet, but will be starting next month once back from Holiday [/quote] Or, you could buy my 100% original 1969 Precision Bass for a very nice price! (listed here on Basschat) Have a great holiday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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