Loose cab joints

[bonzodog]

I posted on another basschat forum the other day about my Crate 220W combo buzzing at high volumes as I thought I was maybe asking too much of it (although levels were only up to half way).
Luckily I found a local amp repairer who agreed to look at it for me.

After various tests he concluded the amp and speaker were fine but the buzz was coming from the cabinet where the horizontal piece of wood between the amp and the speaker was not glued sufficiently enough to the sides. Apparently very common with Chinese cabs. He showed me whilst I played through it that if you turn it on its side it improves as the weight is pressing down on the loose joint.

This amp has a built in tuner on the top of the cab and apparently this makes it very difficult to take apart and fix from inside.
My question is it worth maybe screwing a few screws in from the side into the cross piece of wood to try and eliminate the buzz or would I be better off just selling it and taking the hit. I would have to sell it as damaged as I am not the type of person to pass on unknown problems.

I didn't pay too much for it but I can't use it as it is.

Any advice would be welcom

[bertbass]

If the amp isn't too precious to you I'd force a bit of PVA wood glue into the joint using a syringe and screw through from the outside using screw cups. The screw cups would make the repair look like it was meant to be like that.

[paul_5]

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1376673066' post='2177876']
If the amp isn't too precious to you I'd force a bit of PVA wood glue into the joint using a syringe and screw through from the outside using screw cups. The screw cups would make the repair look like it was meant to be like that.
[/quote]

This. For the sake of a couple of quid's worth of stuff it's worth a punt innit?

[flyfisher]

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1376673066' post='2177876']
If the amp isn't too precious to you I'd force a bit of PVA wood glue into the joint using a syringe and screw through from the outside using screw cups. The screw cups would make the repair look like it was meant to be like that.
[/quote]

Yep, I'd do much the same thing though I'd be wary of using PVA wood glue because this will only result in a strong joint (a very strong joint!) when used between two pieces of bare wood. If the gap was previously glued wood that has come apart then the PVA glue won't be able to soak into the wood and do its stuff.

In such cases, or if I couldn't be sure, I would use a polyurethae (PU) wood glue. It's just as widely available as PVA.

[BILL POSTERS]

Either of the above.
Or Epoxy Resin. Araldite if you have money to throw around, or pound shop stuff is good, push it into the gap as much as you can,then heat it up, hot as you dare with a hairdryer. It gets runny when you heat it up but will fill gaps when its thick. Might not need the screws that way.

Edited August 17, 2013 by BILL POSTERS

[flyfisher]

[quote name='BILL POSTERS' timestamp='1376754800' post='2178752']
Might not need the screws that way.
[/quote]

Might not, true, but epoxy can be a bit 'brittle' and might crack if the cab is bashed about a bit. I'd still screw and glue.

[Mottlefeeder]

A bit late to the party, but still may be able to help...

+1 for PU, and mentioned by flyfisher

Polyurethene glue foams and expands as it goes off, so it will force itself at least part way into the join, and it provides a bond that is usually stronger than the wood.

I'd wipe the joint area with a slightly damp cloth, to make sure the glue starts to cure then run a fillet of PU glue down it.

David