My "Fender's Greatest Hits" project - help me decide on what finish please

[miles'tone]

Hi all this is my ongoing build that is awaiting it's new finish.
The body is a lightweight select alder cnc clone of a genuine '64 P from the Sims custom shop. It has quite a nice grain to it for alder so I originally gave it a good few coats of danish oil and then finishing wax. It looked lovely!
Unfortunately the wood is rather soft and a couple of little taps on things around the house marked it very easily, as well as fingernail scratches (the bass has been together for about a year with home use only).

I've taken it apart and sanded the marks out, and I was just going to tru-oil it this time and once that's finished and dry, shoot a can of clear nitro over the top for a hard finish.

BUT...
I've seen this pic of a '64 jazz in Daphne Blue with a tort guard and it's thrown me!
A bit if googling has shown me that it's a pretty uncommon colour for a P but I think it would be cool against my tort guard.

This is my dream bass build so it's doing my head in! Help!

So, over to you guys.... Daphne Blue or Tru-Oil natural? And why?

(Defo down to these two as I've thoroughly gone over all the trad/custom Fender/vintage auto colours)

Cheers!

Si.

[Jono Bolton]

I think Sonic Blue with a Tort guard is the way forward, and more "correct" for a Precision:



It's also one of my dream colour combos, so you've got a guaranteed buyer if you ever choose to sell it

Edited August 19, 2013 by Jono Bolton

[Grangur]

Paint may look pretty, but kevlar it is not. So the dings will continue and the paint will soon look crap, unless you're really into the scratched paint look in a big way.

[size=4]Repairing the dings in the oiled wood is far easier than re-spraying. [/size][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]To repair dings in wood, don't sand it. You can sweat the wood back to shape.[/size][/font][/color][size=4] First [/size][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]plug in the clothes iron. Mrs Miles'tone will tell you what it looks like [/size][/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]Get a soft, old cloth and a bowl of water. Dip the cloth in the water and put a small piece of the wet clot over a dent and get the tip of the iron and heat the cloth/dent.[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Doing this will normally cause the wood to swell and the dent will recover. If not go find a Stanley knife and take a look at the dents and cut the wood WITH the grain. DON'T go across the grain. Just do small cuts, don't go hacking at it. Then steam the wood with the cloth/iron again.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]When the wood has swollen back out you'll need let it dry out. When dry you need to sand the wood to get rid of any rough bits. Finish it off with really fine grain paper (at least grade 350, finer if you can get it). Sand it WITH the grain, not across it. After this it'll look a ton better than it did.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Finish off by re-applying the finish - oil or lacquer; whatever it has already. [/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]PM me if you need more info[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then meet me down the pub and buy me a beer.[/font][/color]

[nugget]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1376916974' post='2180765']

I've taken it apart and sanded the marks out, and I was just going to tru-oil it this time and once that's finished and dry, shoot a can of clear nitro over the top for a hard finish.

[/quote]

I think Cellulose reacts with Tru-oil, so if you go down that route test it first on a scrap piece of alder.

It is a nice piece of alder, how about rustins plastic coating, super hard finish that buffs up to very high gloss and dead easy to apply?

[Myke]

You should spray it blue a little so you can still see the grain through it.. and get the best of both worlds

[nugget]

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1376928782' post='2181041']
You should spray it blue a little so you can still see the grain through it.. and get the best of both worlds
[/quote]

ohh yer, your right (in my eyes)
Add blue Stain to the lacquer

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Jono Bolton' timestamp='1376922675' post='2180907']
I think Sonic Blue with a Tort guard is the way forward, and more "correct" for a Precision:



It's also one of my dream colour combos, so you've got a guaranteed buyer if you ever choose to sell it
[/quote]
Thanks Jono.
Your right sonic blue does work with a tort guard but it's a bit pale for my tastes to be honest, I like the way Daphne is bold (I'm just worried it's a colour that might get a bit much for every day but I do love it). It's not surf green but it would look good in a surf band (not that I'm in one!)
Also, I'm not bothered about being correct about anything. It's got a jazz neck on when it's together!

Cheers.

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1376923910' post='2180933']
Paint may look pretty, but kevlar it is not. So the dings will continue and the paint will soon look crap, unless you're really into the scratched paint look in a big way.

[size=4]Repairing the dings in the oiled wood is far easier than re-spraying. [/size][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]To repair dings in wood, don't sand it. You can sweat the wood back to shape.[/size][/font][/color][size=4] First [/size][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]plug in the clothes iron. Mrs Miles'tone will tell you what it looks like [/size][/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=4]Get a soft, old cloth and a bowl of water. Dip the cloth in the water and put a small piece of the wet clot over a dent and get the tip of the iron and heat the cloth/dent.[/size][/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Doing this will normally cause the wood to swell and the dent will recover. If not go find a Stanley knife and take a look at the dents and cut the wood WITH the grain. DON'T go across the grain. Just do small cuts, don't go hacking at it. Then steam the wood with the cloth/iron again.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]When the wood has swollen back out you'll need let it dry out. When dry you need to sand the wood to get rid of any rough bits. Finish it off with really fine grain paper (at least grade 350, finer if you can get it). Sand it WITH the grain, not across it. After this it'll look a ton better than it did.[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Finish off by re-applying the finish - oil or lacquer; whatever it has already. [/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]PM me if you need more info[/font][/color]
[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then meet me down the pub and buy me a beer.[/font][/color]
[/quote]

Grangur, that's great advice! (apart from getting the missus to show me where the iron is, she'll only make me use it if I do!)
Thing is I'm not too bothered about a bass getting scratched and worn - that's life but I would never relic it on purpose. If it happens it happens, as it did to the original Fenders.
If I keep it natural I will certainly keep your top tips in mind!

Cheers.

[miles'tone]

[quote name='nugget' timestamp='1376927955' post='2181024']


I think Cellulose reacts with Tru-oil, so if you go down that route test it first on a scrap piece of alder.

It is a nice piece of alder, how about rustins plastic coating, super hard finish that buffs up to very high gloss and dead easy to apply?
[/quote]

Tru-oil is fine with cellulose/nitrocellulose as long as you give the tru-oil time to dry...according to lots of builders on the tele websites and talkbass. I hope.
Nice idea about Rustins it's just I don't fancy plastic coating it.
I forgot to mention that when my bass was together it sounded divine. VERY resonant and pretty loud acoustically. Sounded very "alive". I don't want to mute it's tone with a heavy tight finish.
Whatever I finish I use, it will be a thin finish for some protection. Better than no protection.

Cheers for the ideas though!

Si.

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1376928782' posted='2181041']
You should spray it blue a little so you can still see the grain through it.. and get the best of both worlds
[/quote]

Ooo now there's an idea!
Just been looking at the Rothko and Frost website and they will mix up a can of translucent nitro in any colour you want it seems.
Translucent Daphne Blue? Gonna ring them in the morning, see what they reckon.

[steve]

[quote name='Jono Bolton' timestamp='1376922675' post='2180907']
I think Sonic Blue with a Tort guard is the way forward, and more "correct" for a Precision:



It's also one of my dream colour combos, so you've got a guaranteed buyer if you ever choose to sell it
[/quote]

this; that is all

[Myke]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1376947623' post='2181493']
Ooo now there's an idea!
Just been looking at the Rothko and Frost website and they will mix up a can of translucent nitro in any colour you want it seems.
Translucent Daphne Blue? Gonna ring them in the morning, see what they reckon.
[/quote]



You can't lose that lovely looking grain!

[miles'tone]

Ah well. The great guys at Rothko and Frost informed me that all the bright solid colours are based on a white resin so getting an exact daphne blue translucent would be next to impossible. He did say he would try to get as close as possible with a custom mix but couldn't guarantee it would be exact.
Also, as the colour coat would be opaque so it would be difficult to keep the grain showing anyway due to the coats it would need for coverage.
Fair do's, Simon at R&F REALLY knows his stuff about the history et al of the trad Fender finishes and the rest. We were chatting for ages about it all, so defo gonna shop with confidence there. They are the real deal.
I think I may just do the body in Tru-Oil then clear sanding sealer with a can of satin clear nitro on top. Should look nice and most importantly give the body more protection than before without compromising the tone much.
If I do get bored of the natural then it'll be prepped ready for a colour coat anyway so won't be too much of a headache.....mmmm that Daphne Blue though.. hmm. Seafoam green is pretty sexy too... oh god!

Sanded it back now:

[DarkHeart]

you need another project

[Jono Bolton]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1376938652' post='2181263']

Thanks Jono.
Your right sonic blue does work with a tort guard but it's a bit pale for my tastes to be honest, I like the way Daphne is bold (I'm just worried it's a colour that might get a bit much for every day but I do love it). It's not surf green but it would look good in a surf band (not that I'm in one!)
Also, I'm not bothered about being correct about anything. It's got a jazz neck on when it's together!

Cheers.
[/quote]

A Jazz neck? Pfft, lightweight

Edited August 23, 2013 by Jono Bolton

[miles'tone]

[quote name='DarkHeart' timestamp='1377278610' post='2185813']
you need another project
[/quote]
I didn't really mean to get so involved with this one, A horrible almost banana yellow nitro "amber tint" on the neck led to me getting busy sanding so while I was there...
My main project I'm looking forward to is a defret of my other P

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Jono Bolton' timestamp='1377289955' post='2186000']


A Jazz neck? Pfft, lightweight
[/quote]

[Grangur]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1377086801' post='2183131']
Ah well. The great guys at Rothko and Frost informed me that all the bright solid colours are based on a white resin so getting an exact daphne blue translucent would be next to impossible. He did say he would try to get as close as possible with a custom mix but couldn't guarantee it would be exact.
Also, as the colour coat would be opaque so it would be difficult to keep the grain showing anyway due to the coats it would need for coverage.
Fair do's, Simon at R&F REALLY knows his stuff about the history et al of the trad Fender finishes and the rest. We were chatting for ages about it all, so defo gonna shop with confidence there. They are the real deal.
I think I may just do the body in Tru-Oil then clear sanding sealer with a can of satin clear nitro on top. Should look nice and most importantly give the body more protection than before without compromising the tone much.
If I do get bored of the natural then it'll be prepped ready for a colour coat anyway so won't be too much of a headache.....mmmm that Daphne Blue though.. hmm. Seafoam green is pretty sexy too... oh god!

Sanded it back now:
[/quote]
Just a small point... you're thinking of using Tru-Oil, and then spraying?
I've never used "Sanding Sealer" but unless it's got some amazing properties it wont stick to an oiled surface. In fact if you oli the wood nothing much will cover it without it staying as a sticky mess.

Before painting with anything to seal the wood you need to get rid of any remains of oil on the wood. Before painting/spraying any oiled wood you need to wash the wood in loads of white spirit and then sand down the wood to get a smooth finish.

Finish off in 400grain sandpaper (or finer) before spraying.

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1377586535' post='2188955']

Just a small point... you're thinking of using Tru-Oil, and then spraying?
I've never used "Sanding Sealer" but unless it's got some amazing properties it wont stick to an oiled surface. In fact if you oli the wood nothing much will cover it without it staying as a sticky mess.

Before painting with anything to seal the wood you need to get rid of any remains of oil on the wood. Before painting/spraying any oiled wood you need to wash the wood in loads of white spirit and then sand down the wood to get a smooth finish.

Finish off in 400grain sandpaper (or finer) before spraying.
[/quote]

Thank you for the good advice there Grangur.
I was unsure myself as to spraying a clear coat over Tru-oil, but I've read that many have done this ok as long as you let it dry first and then give it a key as you suggested. Unlike 'real' oil, Tru-oil is a mix of poly-based varnish, boiled linseed oil (which contains drying agents) and thinners, so given a bit of time it will actually dry.
I am going to work ahead of myself on a scrap piece of wood this time just to make sure though!

Edited August 27, 2013 by miles'tone

[Donnyboy]

I like the blue.it looks super cool and a bit different.

[miles'tone]

[quote name='Donnyboy' timestamp='1377590672' post='2188995']
I like the blue.it looks super cool and a bit different.
[/quote]

Aw now ya tell me!
(as spanner disappears deep into the works)

[Donnyboy]

Ooopsasadaisy!! Sorry about the spanner situation ..