mybass Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I have a Yamaha PA amp in need of minor repair but I can't find parts. I found a wire off the multiway from front of amp controls to the rear board hanging by a couple of strands, discovered when trying to find out why the onboard reverb didn't work. In trying to repair this, I had to extract the tiny, almost 1.5mm wide crimp pin that the wire should connect into (and then that is inserted into the multi 'socket'). Can anyone advise please.... Dealings with Yamaha some years ago on a different matter left me a little deterred from calling them again. One pic has the (now damaged) pin next to the multi which is the bit I need.......maybe Yamaha would have the whole wiring part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 If all else fails you could dispense with the multiway plug and solder the wires directly to the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybass Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 [quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1379524690' post='2213713'] If all else fails you could dispense with the multiway plug and solder the wires directly to the board. [/quote] I did try soldering the wire to the crimp pin but it wouldn't work. I don't know what metal the pin is made of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 How about stripping the wire a bit and twisting that around the crimp tag 'til it's tight and insulating it with a bit of tape. Or can you solder the loose wire directly to the PCB. Cut the connector where the wire goes, hold the wire to the pin with a rubber sleeve or heat shrink sleeving and then pushing the now two halves of the connector back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whizzzy Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 Maplin sell these sorts of pins for use in their range of pcboard connectors. Have a look at their part numbers YW25C or FY94C. You should be able to extract the old pin from the plug (part of the pin usually latches onto the inside of the housing so use something like a small watchmakers screwdriver to release the latch) and then solder / crimp a new connecting pin onto the wire and then insert it back into the plug assembly. I've managed to make repairs to similar kit in this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 Well found. I spent ages trying to find them and failed miserably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybass Posted September 20, 2013 Author Share Posted September 20, 2013 [quote name='whizzzy' timestamp='1379603568' post='2214733'] Maplin sell these sorts of pins for use in their range of pcboard connectors. Have a look at their part numbers YW25C or FY94C. You should be able to extract the old pin from the plug (part of the pin usually latches onto the inside of the housing so use something like a small watchmakers screwdriver to release the latch) and then solder / crimp a new connecting pin onto the wire and then insert it back into the plug assembly. I've managed to make repairs to similar kit in this way. [/quote] Thanks Whizzy n Bertbass. I've found a Maplins in Farnborough to visit if the parts I ordered from the Peeps Republic are the wrong size. I did think of direct solder to the board, a possibility, also the idea of taping the wire wouldn't work well as a hard crimp/solder join is needed on this part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu_g Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Maplins or RS components should have the parts [url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/general-purpose-rectangular-connectors/general-purpose-rectangular-connectors/?page-offset=100&sort-by=default&sort-order=default&view-type=List"]http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/general-purpose-rectangular-connectors/general-purpose-rectangular-connectors/?page-offset=100&sort-by=default&sort-order=default&view-type=List[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfisher Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 I've bought replacement circuit board parts a few years ago from Yamaha Music Europe GmbH (UK) in Milton Keynes. Tel: 0844-811-1115 Email: [email protected] I telephoned them and a very helpful chap talked me through their spares catalogue using the model number. My component was easy to describe and identify but I guess an emailed photo would help if you do get stuck. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybass Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 [quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1379694850' post='2215878'] I've bought replacement circuit board parts a few years ago from Yamaha Music Europe GmbH (UK) in Milton Keynes. Tel: 0844-811-1115 Email: [email protected] I telephoned them and a very helpful chap talked me through their spares catalogue using the model number. My component was easy to describe and identify but I guess an emailed photo would help if you do get stuck. Good luck [/quote] flyfisher....thanks for this address...I have only just picked it up today having bought a spare (50 actually) pin via China! Seems to be holding okay but the real part would feel safer. Might contact Yamaha now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfisher Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 No problem. I suspect Yamaha might not stock the individual connector parts but only a complete cable assembly, though the only way to be sure is to call them. As for the pins from China, I wouldn't be at all surprised if they are the same parts in the original unit anyway, so if your repair has worked for a few weeks then it may well last for years. One thing about crimp connectors though is that the correct tool should ideally be used for a really reliable joint as a good crimp connection should be gas tight and almost like a 'cold weld'. Unfortunately, a good ratchet crimp tool is usually a bit pricey (£40-ish) so the occasional DIYer can be tempted to use pliers (my hand is up!). In most domestic applications this will be fine, but in a 'rougher' environment (temperature extremes, vibration, shock etc) the connection may not be quite as reliable. What this means in practice is hard to quantify. It might mean the joint lasts only 10 years instead of 25, who knows. If you've already fixed the amp then I'd probably just leave it be. At least you have the spares to fix it again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 [quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1381511881' post='2240170'] One thing about crimp connectors though is that the correct tool should ideally be used for a really reliable joint as a good crimp connection should be gas tight and almost like a 'cold weld'. Unfortunately, a good ratchet crimp tool is usually a bit pricey (£40-ish) so the occasional DIYer can be tempted to use pliers (my hand is up!). [/quote] I've got some rather specialised crimp tools and they cost an absolute fortune. Pliers are ok for some connectors but, if you are too heavy handed, it may deform the metal pin so it doesn't snap cleanly into the connector when you're finished. I find that careful soldering of the connection and gentle forming of the pin shape so it fits is the most reliable solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybass Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 [quote name='icastle' timestamp='1381616812' post='2241556'] I've got some rather specialised crimp tools and they cost an absolute fortune. Pliers are ok for some connectors but, if you are too heavy handed, it may deform the metal pin so it doesn't snap cleanly into the connector when you're finished. I find that careful soldering of the connection and gentle forming of the pin shape so it fits is the most reliable solution. [/quote] The wire cannot be soldered to these pins, won't take fro some reason.......I have 'forced' the crimp with a simple crimp tool and it seems to have held. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybass Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 [quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1381511881' post='2240170'] No problem. I suspect Yamaha might not stock the individual connector parts but only a complete cable assembly, though the only way to be sure is to call them. As for the pins from China, I wouldn't be at all surprised if they are the same parts in the original unit anyway, so if your repair has worked for a few weeks then it may well last for years. One thing about crimp connectors though is that the correct tool should ideally be used for a really reliable joint as a good crimp connection should be gas tight and almost like a 'cold weld'. Unfortunately, a good ratchet crimp tool is usually a bit pricey (£40-ish) so the occasional DIYer can be tempted to use pliers (my hand is up!). In most domestic applications this will be fine, but in a 'rougher' environment (temperature extremes, vibration, shock etc) the connection may not be quite as reliable. What this means in practice is hard to quantify. It might mean the joint lasts only 10 years instead of 25, who knows. If you've already fixed the amp then I'd probably just leave it be. At least you have the spares to fix it again! [/quote] I have emailed a pic of the part across to that Yamaha address you gave me so I will expect either 'don't carry those spares anymore' or as you pointed out, a complete assembly of the wiring loom and connectors. Just wished it had only been the reverb wire! The reverb audibly 'clicks' only at speeds depending on the intensity of the knob setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 [quote name='mybass' timestamp='1381665465' post='2241925'] The wire cannot be soldered to these pins, won't take fro some reason.......I have 'forced' the crimp with a simple crimp tool and it seems to have held. [/quote] It'll probably be laquered, needs a scrape with a scalpel or a rub down with a bit of wet and dry. If it's held and it works then chances are the jobs a goodun and if it fails, then you know where the fault probably is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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