Which soldering iron and jack plug? Fixed it!

[solo4652]

The jack plug on my MIJ Fender P needs replacing. Normally, I'd take it to a tech. but I thought I'd have a go myself. Bearing in mind I've never used a soldering iron before, and I'll have to buy one - 2 questions: (1): What wattage soldering iron will I need? (2): What's the best jack plug to use for my bass? Thanks, Steve

Edited September 26, 2013 by solo4652

[andydye]

I'd be interested in soldering iron recommendations as I have one I was bought and it takes ages to heat up and is difficult to use! I manage with it but I wonder how much easier a 'decent' one would be!!

[stevie]

Try this: <http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANTEX-SOLDERING-IRON-30w-/251338744859?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3a84f4e41b> - ending later today.

The names to look for are Weller and Antex. The blue Weller soldering station is an industry standard and will last you for a lifetime, if you can afford one. There is a lot of cheap Chinese stuff around that is best avoided.

[ras52]

But how does one solder using only two hands? I used to be able to do it as a young lad, but after a long absence I found making up some leads surprisingly tricky - I wanted a hand each for the iron, the solder, and the two components

[barkin]

I use a small vice/clamp gadget, that clamps onto the edge of a table or workbench.

Like this http://www.maplin.co.uk/helping-hands-with-magnifier-4017. But different.

[Grangur]

It's also worth getting a stand - one of the black plastic things with a big spring - it'll save you burning yourself, table-cloth, table etc, etc, etc.

It may even save your marriage in some cases.

Also, if you get a choice, go for a silicone cable. These are more pliable, especially when you bring it in from a cold garage in the winter and the PVC one wont bend.

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1380020529' post='2219537']
But how does one solder using only two hands? I used to be able to do it as a young lad, but after a long absence I found making up some leads surprisingly tricky - I wanted a hand each for the iron, the solder, and the two components
[/quote] Mole grips or pliers can also be good just to hold the jack still. You then have to poke the cable through the hole in the terminal you're soldering the cable to, and you still have a hand to hold the solder.

You can also get good at holding the cable and solder in one hand. This skill can be practised with chop-sticks and a good take-away

[andydye]

So a higher power one will heat up faster yes?
Which tip, standard one or a finer one?

[paul_5]

A temperature controlled one is a good idea, as I've found that the ones without get too damn hot and end up damaging stuff. If you're just doing wires and sockets then it's not quite so critical. Also you can get away with a larger tip if it's just for wires and sockets.

I use a cheapo one from Craplins at the moment and it's doing ok for a £20 thing. Maplins don't sell them any more, but there's a chap in Stockport selling them on eBay for £15:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Variable-Temperature-Soldering-Station-Iron-Kit-NEW-/120730956097?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Don't forget that if you're going for a new iron then you'll need to 'tin' the tip like this:

http://youtu.be/j1ZnkTC5bps

Also, when soldering offboard (generally wires) then you'll need to 'tin' the ends of the wires too - once you've stripped them twist all of the strands together and apply the iron and solder at the same time so that they turn a lovely, shiny silver colour - this stops any errant strands making contact with stuff that they shouldn't, and makes for a better solder joint.

Hope this helps.

[Beer of the Bass]

Also, if you can find the old style tin/lead solder (they don't sell it in Maplins), it's easier to use than the lead free kind and doesn't require as high a temperature.

[paul_5]

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1380027313' post='2219694']
Also, if you can find the old style tin/lead solder (they don't sell it in Maplins), it's easier to use than the lead free kind and doesn't require as high a temperature.
[/quote]

True dat - I have to run my iron about 30% hotter when using lead free stuff. Take sensible precautions though, lead poisoning is pretty nasty.

[solo4652]

Hmmm. There's talk here of burning furniture, damaging existing components, lead poisoning and wrecking marriages. Could I simply use wire glue, like this: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141050534572?showlimghlp=true&lpid=92&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=92&ff19=0"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141050534572?showlimghlp=true&lpid=92&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=92&ff19=0[/url] Alternatively, could I buy a jack socket with the wires already attached so I can then use those little plastic junction-box thingies to connect it to the existing wires? Or shall I take it round to the Tech?

[6v6]

[quote name='andydye' timestamp='1380021881' post='2219573']
So a higher power one will heat up faster yes?
Which tip, standard one or a finer one?
[/quote]

Unless you're prepared to pay for an (expensive) temperature controlled iron, don't get a powerful one, something ~25-35w will be ample for any bass or amp work, anything more powerful will get too hot and you'll just overheat all the components, wires, pcb's etc.

I've used the expensive weller temperature controlled irons at work, and they are great, but for home use I've always used something similar to this antex one:

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/459422.pdf

The one I've got has lasted about 10 years so far, the tips are replaceable (get a couple, one medium and one fine) and they're light and easy to use.

The secret to soldering with two hands is basically preparation, get things ready and clamped or propped so they won't move, then solder quickly, tin the end of the iron, hold it against the two things to be soldered, then feed in the solder (not too much), until you get a nice shiny join. Taking too long will overheat the joint and melt things, so practice on some scrap wire and components first.

[6v6]

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1380028400' post='2219725']
Hmmm. There's talk here of burning furniture, damaging existing components, lead poisoning and wrecking marriages. Could I simply use wire glue, like this: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141050534572?showlimghlp=true&lpid=92&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=92&ff19=0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...&ff14=92&ff19=0[/url] Alternatively, could I buy a jack socket with the wires already attached so I can then use those little plastic junction-box thingies to connect it to the existing wires? Or shall I take it round to the Tech?
[/quote]

Really, I wouldn't touch that stuff, you just know that even if it works it won't last and will fail at the worst possible time (middle of a gig). If you're worried about fumes do it in the garden with an extension lead, practice on some old cut up wires until you're confident then you'll be fine

The best jack plug for a scratchplate mounted precision jack is a switchcraft (available from plenty of places, this is an example):

http://www.ampmaker.com/store/Switchcraft-jack-socket.html

These sockets are much better than the cheap chinese versions which look the same but don't last anywhere near as long.

[Matt P]

i'm just going to echo 6v6 here, i've got a small antex soldering iron and it's a great bit of kit, you can get them as a little set with the stand which is definately worth it (it will have a bit of sponge which you make slightly damp then use to clean the tip. i've had my antex iron for about 15 years so far and i think my brothers one must be heading for it's 20th birthday, they do last very well and aren't exactly expensive.

the switchcraft jack sockets are excellent as well

[Beer of the Bass]

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1380028400' post='2219725']
Hmmm. There's talk here of burning furniture, damaging existing components, lead poisoning and wrecking marriages. Could I simply use wire glue, like this: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141050534572?showlimghlp=true&lpid=92&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=92&ff19=0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...&ff14=92&ff19=0[/url] Alternatively, could I buy a jack socket with the wires already attached so I can then use those little plastic junction-box thingies to connect it to the existing wires? Or shall I take it round to the Tech?
[/quote]

Lead poisoning is not a great risk when soldering - the temperatures used are not high enough for there to be any appreciable amount of lead in the fumes, and it doesn't produce inhalable fine dust. Clear up the bits when you're done and wash your hands and you'll be fine. The fumes from the flux are more of a risk, as often it contains rosin which is a sensitising allergen, but with decent ventilation and short exposure that's not too much of a worry either.
The ROHS regulations which have banned lead solder in new equipment are environmental regulations intended to keep lead out of landfill, rather than being driven by workplace health and safety.

[johnny_frog]

I've been using one of these [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28020-Analog-Soldering-Station-150-480-C-60-W-with-Silicon-Wire-/280757198381"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28020-Analog-Soldering-Station-150-480-C-60-W-with-Silicon-Wire-/280757198381[/url] for repairs... nice wee unit and cheap too.

[paul_5]

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1380031509' post='2219810']
Lead poisoning is not a great risk when soldering - the temperatures used are not high enough for there to be any appreciable amount of lead in the fumes, and it doesn't produce inhalable fine dust. Clear up the bits when you're done and wash your hands and you'll be fine. The fumes from the flux are more of a risk, as often it contains rosin which is a sensitising allergen, but with decent ventilation and short exposure that's not too much of a worry either.
The ROHS regulations which have banned lead solder in new equipment are environmental regulations intended to keep lead out of landfill, rather than being driven by workplace health and safety.
[/quote]

Phew, that's a relief. There must be some other reason why I'm bat-sh*t crazy!

[ras52]

Great thread, thanks for the tips. (See what I did there?)

[Grangur]

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1380028400' post='2219725']
Hmmm. There's talk here of burning furniture, damaging existing components, lead poisoning and wrecking marriages. Could I simply use wire glue, like this: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141050534572?showlimghlp=true&lpid=92&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=92&ff19=0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...&ff14=92&ff19=0[/url] Alternatively, could I buy a jack socket with the wires already attached so I can then use those little plastic junction-box thingies to connect it to the existing wires? Or shall I take it round to the Tech?
[/quote]
LOL!!
I learned soldering as a kid when I first started work. It's a skill that's be useful at many times in my life. My soldering iron I have now is the first one I bought.
My divorce (1 only) had sod all to do with my soldering iron.

Instructions:
1 - Buy this:
[quote name='johnny_frog' timestamp='1380032029' post='2219820']
I've been using one of these [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28020-Analog-Soldering-Station-150-480-C-60-W-with-Silicon-Wire-/280757198381"]http://www.ebay.co.u...e-/280757198381[/url] for repairs... nice wee unit and cheap too.
[/quote] It may not be a Rolls-Royce, but it'll serve you for many years if all you do is 10-12 times a year.

2 - get some old wires from an old mains lead or something and practice soldering stuff together.

3 - Tell us how you got on.

You wont regret it.... Next please!!

[xgsjx]

I have a Snap-on Blue point gas iron that I bought about 20 years ago for @ £40. It's in my wires bag that goes with me to gigs & rehearsals so if there's an issue, I can fix it there & then.

Mine's very similar to this one, but Blue Point branded. It's had the same tip on it since I bought it & it's seen a lot of use & still in good nick.

[KingBollock]

The usual recommendation is 25w. Any less and it's supposed to damage delicate stuff because you have to hold it in place for longer. But I've been using the same 18w Antex since I was in college, where I did electronics, over 20 years ago, and it's always been good for me.

Definitely get a stand with a sponge, being able to clean the tip while it's hot will help it last longer.

And as has been said, the old 60/40 tin/lead solder is the way to go.

If you end up wanting to do more soldering, having different iron tips and different thicknesses of solder to match the job, will help a lot.

A set of helping hands is fairly essencial, though for heavier/ thicker pieces I use a miniature, 1", vise.

[BanditSid]

I've been an electronics engineer for 35 years and solder all my own leads with an 18w Antex like this one :- [url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-irons/0542920/"]http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-irons/0542920/[/url] They are available with silicone mains leads which are more flexible and don't melt through when you catch them with the iron. As an old pro I've been through all kinds of stands, but usually end up laying the iron in an old mug - done me well for years now. As for sponges and the like you can use them but I always have an old scalpel handy that I use to clean the tip off between soldering, gets all the burnt crud off really quickly. The most important things about soldering are to make sure the iron tip is clean and tinned, get it securely in contact with as much of the wire you want to solder as possible and get the solder on as soon as the joint is hot enough to melt it quickly - once it's "blobbed" on don't move it for a couple of seconds till it cools down (blowing helps) - then you will have good joints that will outlive you.

[BanditSid]

I forgot to include that I always use these Neutrik plugs :- [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neutrik-Black-Gold-contacts-NP2X-B-1-4-6-35mm-mono-Jack-plug-/251059976636?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Cables_Leads_Connectors&hash=item3a745739bc"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a745739bc[/url], the quality is great and the clamping works properly. There are a lot of variations including straight, right angled and the silent guitar end plugs that short the cable when unplugged to stop humming from the amp.

Edited September 25, 2013 by BanditSid

[solo4652]

I tried the bass with a different cable and that's complicated the picture. With the old cable, I was getting a lot of popping noises and the occasional cut-out. With the new cable, there's hardly any of this, although I get some crackling if I jiggle the jack in the socket. Old cable has a straight jack, new one has a right-angled one. No problems with either cable with any of my other basses. I'm going to have a look under the scratchplate to see if I can spot any problems. Might as well replace the old jack socket I suppose. Watch this space. I have Manchester's Fire Service phone number handy. Oh, hang on - I think they're on strike.

[KingBollock]

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1380190205' post='2221996']
I tried the bass with a different cable and that's complicated the picture. With the old cable, I was getting a lot of popping noises and the occasional cut-out. With the new cable, there's hardly any of this, although I get some crackling if I jiggle the jack in the socket. Old cable has a straight jack, new one has a right-angled one. No problems with either cable with any of my other basses. I'm going to have a look under the scratchplate to see if I can spot any problems. Might as well replace the old jack socket I suppose. Watch this space. I have Manchester's Fire Service phone number handy. Oh, hang on - I think they're on strike.
[/quote]
You might find you just need to squeeze the parts that touch the plug a bit. I wonder if the second lead has a slightly thicker plug? I think that might explain the problems you're having.