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Making a scratchplate from scratch


tommorichards
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When I've done this before, I've started by using a large sheet of tracing paper ( to check alignment directly with the body), and worked around a marked centreline on both the body and paper template. It's also worth mentioning that if you're using multi-ply material and bevelling the edges, this is a real hassle to do by hand. I hope you're better tooled up than I was!

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do a rubbing of the body with paper and crayon like a brass rubbing to show up all the outlines and screw holes

scan it

import scan image into illustrator and use as a template to draw up a vector linework file

export it out to pdf or dxf and take along to local cnc/laser cutters to have it machined up

:D

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Good idea but IME consumer grade scanners simply aren't accurate enough if you're having to cut around neck pockets, pickup cavities etc. And especially if your going to have to join two A4 scans together, which you'll need to do for most bass scratch plates.

I'd want to make my original tracing on squared paper so I could use the grid as a reference to compensate for any distortions produced by the scanning process, and still make a couple of mock-ups first. Remember also when making the mock-up that if anything your average ink-jet or laser printer is even more inaccurate than the scanner...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd make an mdf template, rough cut the blank with a jigsaw or fretsaw, then flush-trim the plate on the template with a router.

You can get a router very cheaply if you look around - I got one for £25 from Aldi and it's perfectly OK for occasional use. It can also be used to bevel the edges if it's a multi-ply plate.

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[quote name='tommorichards' timestamp='1381862651' post='2244737']
i have been looking into routers as mine broke. But i find with the cheaper ones the bit gets pulled out while in use, so im looking for something with a bit more oomph.
[/quote]

Hmm, never experienced that problem, particularly when dealing with thin material/cuts, maybe try a different collet which is slightly tighter, or do it up tighter?

My first router was the cheapest one I could find at Argos about 10 years ago, and it's still going strong.

I'd get something nicer if I could justify/afford it tho, my joiner mate rates the more expensive Makita stuff, but it's about the cost of 10 cheap ones.

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A template cut with a jigsaw or small hacksaw and then hand sanded is quite possible but takes longer: using a Router is not childs play even in a proper table and they are not forgiving in the slightest! Possibly one of the most dangerous tools in the workshop. That said, I have an Aldi one but have had no problems with shedding bits in use, just the height adjust locking mechanism gave up. Got another under warranty!

Edited by yorks5stringer
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  • 2 weeks later...

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