DanEly Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 I'm installing (for the first time ever) a set of new pickups in my jazz along with a new control plate. I've been lent one of them fancy irons where you can adjust the temperature. So what do you all reckon? I do have some basic experience soldering but not with pots and pickups. I just don't want to fry anything! Go go go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 I'd go for about 350°C for normal work and crank it up to 400°C for the pot casings. If you're feeling unsure, have a practice on some scrap cable and an old pot before you start. There's a good thread here about soldering pots - http://basschat.co.uk/topic/110170-dull-solder-joint-why/page__hl__soldering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandomBass Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Might also be worthwhile rubbing the relevant area on the pot case with some abrasive to get a really good joint. Blimey, 'pot' and 'joint' in the same post ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 I generally use a Weller No.8 Chisel tip for pot bodies & the like, that's 400 - but 350 is fine if you've got a decent size tip. The decent pot bodies don't need abrading, but to make like really simple, those Flux pens are wonderful. Make sure you've got decent resin flux cored solder too, old school 60/40 lead/tin can't be beat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanEly Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Loverly advice. One last question, with Bart pups, what wire is essentially black/white? If that's makes sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Foxen Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Depends on the solder. The solder might say, possibly on manufacturers site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DolganoFF Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 300º (when using leaded 60% solder), 350 or more for un-leaded ROHS compatible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 [quote name='DanEly' timestamp='1382447542' post='2252221'] Loverly advice. One last question, with Bart pups, what wire is essentially black/white? If that's makes sense [/quote] Looking through Bartolini's wiring diagrams it seems that their convention is Black = hot and White = earth/ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanEly Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 [quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1382455618' post='2252359'] Looking through Bartolini's wiring diagrams it seems that their convention is Black = hot and White = earth/ground. [/quote] My wires weren't coloured. The grounded was braided and wrapped around the hot wire [b]I need more help guys![/b] There's something up with my tone controls. When I roll them off I'm getting a large drop in volume and my actually tone is sounding a bit off to me. Like I'm under water with all the mids and treble cut. It just doesn't effect my tone the way I'm used to. When I have my neck: Vol 10 + Tone 10 & my bridge: Vol 10 + tone 0 I'm suffering from a drastic drop in volume again as well as losing my neck in the mix. So I'm still getting that strange tone. When everything is open wide it sounds great! Hope this makes sense.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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