malbass Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) Wondering if anyone can give me any advice regarding a problem I'm having when changing the strings on my double bass. I've had the bass about six months - its an Antoni that was picked up cheaply from eBay - my first foray into the work of double bass. Six months later and I'm well and truly hooked so thought it was probably time to try making some improvements, starting with replacing the stock strings that came on the bass. I picked up a set of Spriocore Mediums from the classifieds on here and cracked on with my first go at changing double bass strings. I've had the bass on its back and changed one string at a time to keep some tension on the bridge. But now when I tune back up the bridge is starting to move and tilt up towards the neck - something it didn't do with the old strings. Have taken some photos to show the problem. Can anyone tell me if I'm doing something wrong or give any tips of how I can get the bridge to stay in its correct position whilst tightening the strings? Or is this a more serious issue with the bridge? Bridge profile: [url="http://s400.photobucket.com/user/malw_2008/media/IMG_2940.jpg.html"][/url] Top of Bridge: [url="http://s400.photobucket.com/user/malw_2008/media/IMG_2942.jpg.html"][/url] Bottom of Bridge: [url="http://s400.photobucket.com/user/malw_2008/media/IMG_2941.jpg.html"][/url] Edited November 6, 2013 by malbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBus Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I don't think it will be a problem with the bridge. When you are changing strings put them on but don't tune to full tension. When they are all on keep them loose enough so that you can still move the bridge underneath them. Keep the feet in one place but move the bit touching the strings towards the tailpiece. Then tune up. That will bring the bridge back with the feet sitting flat on the face of the instrument. This might take a few goes till you get it right. I hope that is clear enough. That's how I've worked it. If anyone has a better way I'd be happy to hear it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisnameistaken Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 That's normal. What I do (and I'm sure some people would warn that this can damage strings but I've never had an issue) is to take a book and use it to give the bridge a tap close to where the strings pass over it, just to nudge it back vertical again. Keep an eye on it as you tune up to pitch because it will probably continue to move. Also it's a good idea to take a soft pencil and rub it in the grooves on both the bridge and the nut before fitting a new string to lubricate it a bit. You get less of this behaviour if you do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 (edited) Don't be scared about using gentle force - I use my thumb to gently force the bridge back into position. The tension of the strings (60 pounds plus with Spiros) is such that, unless you are extremely clumsy, it won't suddenly flip over and collapse on you. Its quite easy to move the bridge 1cm or so gradually with no risk at all, in my view. Just be patient and brave! Edited October 28, 2013 by Clarky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbie Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 On photo number 1, maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me, but it looks like your bridge is warped? If it's just my eyes being squint, all you need to do is tune up gradually and whenever the bridge moves, grab the strings and push the the top of the bridge back with both thumbs (difficult to explain but I seem to remember Upton bass had a nice wee video about this on YouTube). I'd avoid knocking the bridge back and forth at full tension. Karate chops and books are not really safe as you wanna be careful the bridge remains in its position (naturally marked by the little spikes in the F-holes, plus its fitting perfectly around the contour of your top). Graphite in the slots is always a good idea as said above. I hope the bridge is straight, in which case it's a very minor part of learning to deal with a DB's idiosincrasy. All the best to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maude Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 I was trying to decide if that bridge looked warped as well. Not sure if it's the angle and light or it's warped forwards, hopefully an optical illusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malbass Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Some great advice here, thanks a lot! Have just been out on my lunch break and bought a soft pencil so will give that a go and report back how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisnameistaken Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 I was reading this on my phone last night but yeah looking at the first photo your bridge does either look a bit bent or not very well cut. Hopefully it won't be structurally unsound (if you've been playing it 6 months then it's probably trustworthy) but you might want to think about having a luthier replace it for you at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny dissident Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 In photo 1, it looks like your bridge has slipped back a tad, try centering it on the F hole notches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malbass Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) Thanks again for all the advice, have spent a bit of time on this morning and think I've got it sorted. The soft pencil in the bridge grooves seems to have helped a lot and by applying a bit more downward pressure than I was using previously have got the stings in tune and the bridge feet flat on the bass top. I've checked the bridge with a straight edge and it does seem to have quite an upwards curve on it so probably a little bit warped. I'm not really inclined to spend much money getting a replacement though, it was only a cheap bass and as the bridge has been fine for the past six months. I think I'll keep the money and start saving for a better bass!! Following some of the advice above I had a look on youtube and found this clip which really helped to show how to move the bridge back to the right position: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiN4VrEzYW0&feature=player_detailpage[/media] Edited October 30, 2013 by malbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malbass Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Well that didn't quite go to plan, just popped up : [URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/malw_2008/media/IMG_2986.jpg.html][IMG]http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/malw_2008/IMG_2986.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Guess the higher tension of the new strings was too much and the tail piece wire has snapped Any tips on where to get a new wire? The first gig on this bass is planned for 4 weeks time, hope I can get it sorted in time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbie Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Get a new on at string zone website, easy to change, no problem, but you really wanna look at a bridge as well. A warped bridge with high tension strings is not gonna go through a gig easily without a hitch. But first, lay the bass flat and put some books on its top, you don't want the sound post to fall off unless you know how to put it back into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo1978 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 This happened me with my bossy hawkes bass, about 6 months after I got it. When it popped I noticed it had quite a curve to it. Annoying as having to pay for a new bridge was, the luthier enquired about the type of music I would be playing and made the new bridge with a much lower action, which made it much easier to play, even though I thought it was fine. My only regret was not getting an adjustable bridge as there are more pickup options with the adjustables. Still playing the same bass 15 years on :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malbass Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Thanks for the advice, the bass is now flat on its back - the sound post doesn't appear to have moved. Guess I need to start looking for a luthier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPJ Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 [quote name='malbass' timestamp='1383208401' post='2261449'] Thanks for the advice, the bass is now flat on its back - the sound post doesn't appear to have moved. Guess I need to start looking for a luthier! [/quote] You could try Kai, he's in Notts. [url="http://www.kaidaseviolins.com/"]www.kaidaseviolins.com[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) [list] [*][url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/204959-db-luthiers-thread/"]http://basschat.co.u...uthiers-thread/[/url] [*] [*]Or Clive Wilkinson in Nottingham, as recommended by esteemed BC moderator ubassman (see post #14 in linked thread) [/list] Edited October 31, 2013 by Clarky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malbass Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 [quote name='TPJ' timestamp='1383215500' post='2261578'] You could try Kai, he's in Notts. [url="http://www.kaidaseviolins.com/"]www.kaidaseviolins.com[/url] [/quote] Thanks for the tip off - according to his website I could be looking at £150 for a new bridge from him - about half the value of the bass, didn't really want to spend that much! Thinking I might buy a cheap bridge from ebay and have a go at fitting it myself. I've got the old bridge to use as a template and with a bit of time and patience I feel I could get somewhere close. Would I be biting off more than I can chew? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc S Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) If the bass was a cheap one, maybe give it a go yourself? After all, you wouldn't want to be learning these things on an expensive model... Mind you, that gig is looming - maybe see if there's somewhere local you can hire one for a week just in case..... Good luck with fixing the bass and with the gig EDIT: Let us know how you get on I'm interested, as I'm fairly new to the world of DB as well.... Edited October 31, 2013 by Marc S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blinddrew Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 [quote name='malbass' timestamp='1383228144' post='2261820'] Thinking I might buy a cheap bridge from ebay and have a go at fitting it myself. I've got the old bridge to use as a template and with a bit of time and patience I feel I could get somewhere close. Would I be biting off more than I can chew? [/quote] The chap I bought my bass off was convinced that you needed to take the bridge off to fit it in the hard case so I fitted mine myself. Subsequently decided the action was too high so did a bit of file work to take it down a few mm and re-cut the string grooves. Nothing too tricky really and seems to work ok - that being said, it's never been played by a proper DB player so I might have screwed it up royally but just not know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabbie Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 I cut a bridge for an old bass I had once: bloody hard work if you don't have the right tools and you do need to know what you are doing, but feasible if you don't expect magical results. I do agree that if you have a 300 quid bass, the expense of luthier may not be justifiable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Bassman Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) If you're willing to have a go at fitting a bridge it's not too difficult. The hardest part is shaping the feet to the contour of the top, but I've developed a quick and easy method using Milliput. I recently bought a used Stentor with a poorly fitted warped bridge. I wanted to try a Full Circle on the bass and had various old bridges and feet already tapped with the correct thread. The feet I used required material to be added rather than removed. Hope the pics explain. And the bass sounds surprisingly good for it :-) Edited October 31, 2013 by Mr Bassman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malbass Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Having given it some thought and checked the bridge again I've come to the conclusion that the bridge isn't that far out of shape and that the shape would have no bearing on the tension that was placed on the snapped tail piece wire. So I got a replacement wire and have gone back to using the stock strings. It doesn't sound any where near as good but it works and is stable - I've decided I can live with that in the short term and will perhaps think about replacing strings/bridge once I've got past this gig in a couple of weeks. Thanks again for all the advice, really appreciate it! [URL=http://s400.photobucket.com/user/malw_2008/media/IMG_2968.jpg.html][IMG]http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp86/malw_2008/IMG_2968.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc S Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Looks like you did a good job Hope it holds out for the gig Is the bridge looking warped / bent now? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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