Twigman Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Can anyone find a long shaft (1/2" or 3/4") 250k tone pot that purports to be true bypass in the full on position? I can only find normal shaft (3/8"). I have a CTS 250k long shaft log pot (3/4") but it doesn't claim to be 'true bypass' when the knob is wound to max.....does it make much, if any, difference? I need longer than 3/8" because the surface I am mounting it to is exactly 3/8" thick. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2x18 Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 I think this article might help if you are not afraid to try it out Will. http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/tonefreaks/32227-those-yall-who-want-pure-signal-no-load-pots-diy-mod.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 [quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1385492679' post='2288962'] I have a CTS 250k long shaft log pot (3/4") but it doesn't claim to be 'true bypass' when the knob is wound to max.....does it make much, if any, difference? [/quote] What is a "true bypass" pot? I thought all pots went from zero ohms to whatever their rating is (e.g 250k ohms), every pot should be zero ohms when in it's fully "on" position, otherwise it's faulty, ergo all pots are "true bypass"? If you need to check, use a multimeter on ohms between the middle and outer connections, zero ohms means they are connected directly together with no resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigman Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 (edited) Why in that case [quote name='6v6' timestamp='1385644515' post='2290590'] What is a "true bypass" pot? I thought all pots went from zero ohms to whatever their rating is (e.g 250k ohms), every pot should be zero ohms when in it's fully "on" position, otherwise it's faulty, ergo all pots are "true bypass"? If you need to check, use a multimeter on ohms between the middle and outer connections, zero ohms means they are connected directly together with no resistance. [/quote] Why in that case would this pot [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/collections/guitar-pots-fender/products/250k-split-shaft-no-load-potentiometer"]http://www.allparts....d-potentiometer[/url] be described as a 'No Load Pot' and how might it differ from this pot [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/collections/guitar-pots-fender/products/250k-split-shaft"]http://www.allparts....50k-split-shaft[/url] ?? It is my understanding that ONLY the 'no load pots' completely bypass the resistor when the wiper is fully wound round. Edited November 28, 2013 by Twigman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dincz Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 It's new to me as well, but apparently a "no load" pot is open circuit at its fully clockwise position. Using this as a tone pot actually completely disconnects the cap when fully clockwise giving all the top end the pickup is capable of. I wouldn't have thought a conventional 250K pot would significantly load a pup but I've never tried one of these so who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigman Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 Aye - so where might I get a long shaft no load 250k pot? Can't find any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiOgon Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 (edited) I have some Alpha 500K Long Shaft, 1" useable thread actually, pictured on the left below next to a standard CTS. If you want it 'modified' as above I can do that for you. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/kjon51/20131105_170310_zps4661af53.jpg Cheerz, John Edited November 28, 2013 by KiOgon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dincz Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 You could always take a normal one apart and scrape off a bit of the carbon track at one end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twigman Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 If I can't find one I am going to just stick a std long shaft pot in there and hear how it sounds......bass is in progress - neck is still 2 weeks away....I already have a couple of 3/4" shaft 250k pots. I might try modifying one of them myself if I can't find one already set up as 'no load'. But only if I feel the std pot isn't letting everything through... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 [quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1385651700' post='2290708'] Why in that case Why in that case would this pot [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/collections/guitar-pots-fender/products/250k-split-shaft-no-load-potentiometer"]http://www.allparts....d-potentiometer[/url] be described as a 'No Load Pot' and how might it differ from this pot [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/collections/guitar-pots-fender/products/250k-split-shaft"]http://www.allparts....50k-split-shaft[/url] ?? It is my understanding that ONLY the 'no load pots' completely bypass the resistor when the wiper is fully wound round. [/quote] Aha! This is a different thing from "true bypass", or my understanding of it anyway. True bypass is normally used to refer to a switch which fully bypasses an effect without any buffering (so you get a pure unmodified signal with multiple effects in series), wheras this could be described as the opposite of true bypass, in that it's open circuit when at maximum resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.