Andyjr1515 Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 Hi I posted a step-by-step on another forum on this - happy to pop it on here if anyone is interested. It's a veneer job I have done on a formerly metallic green Yamaha RBX270F fretless, presently on fleabay with reasonable interest so far. The veneer is unstained myrtle - fascinating figuring...just like an photograph of the inside of someone's lungs! In progress: And finished: There's a decent amount of interest of fleabay with 20+ watchers - but we all know that means nowt! It expires tomorrow evening - I'll let you know if it sells... Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve-bbb Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 lush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 (edited) How did you do the veneer, iron on or glue? Can you tell me where you sourced the veneer too (I'm thinking of tarting up one of mine). EDIT: How rude am I? Cracking job you've done there sir Edited December 7, 2013 by ezbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 I was thinking the same actually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 [quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1386436138' post='2300135'] How did you do the veneer, iron on or glue? Can you tell me where you sourced the veneer too (I'm thinking of tarting up one of mine). EDIT: How rude am I? Cracking job you've done there sir [/quote] I coated veneer and body with standard PVA, let it dry and then ironed on. Here are some shots of the stages: 1) Marked out veneer Foam roller, evo-stick wood glue, water spray at the ready Rolled a full but thin layer onto veneer. Sprayed other side to even out the expansion of the veneer. Applied similar coat of glue to body top. Let touch dry (20-30 minutes) Ironed veneer onto top, starting at middle and working outwards. Ironed veneer over arm relief edge, then down the arm relief area. Ran iron particularly around outside edge to ensure a good joint where I would subsequently trim off the off-cuts. Trimmed with Bic disposable knife (sharp but more rigid than a scalpel) using body as the 'template'. Once trimmed, went over edge again with iron. Great thing is - provided there is no area without glue, you can re-iron at any time. It remelts and regrips. And thanks... yes, it has come out quite well Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 (edited) Veneer, by the way, was off ebay. Not sure which supplier this one was from but I've used most of the regulars and most are fine (just make sure the piece is big enough including a bit of spare for positioning / trimming) Andy Edited December 7, 2013 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 That's lovely Andy, what finish did you put on it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 Don't usually like such finishes, but that looks the business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 [quote name='rubis' timestamp='1386442023' post='2300245'] That's lovely Andy, what finish did you put on it ? [/quote] Nowadays, I just use good old Ronseal Hardglaze polyurethane varnish, thinned with White Spirits 30% and applied with a microfibre cloth @ £2 for 3 from Homebase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1386442250' post='2300249'] Don't usually like such finishes, but that looks the business. [/quote] Thanks. Probably 50% of the guitaring population are left totally cold by basses and guitars that look like a fancy bit of furniture. I have no problem with that at all. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Sharman Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 That looks gorgeous! I am now looking at my RBX370 and twitching.....(....flame maple.....transparent red lacquer.......) I need to lie down now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 [quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1386448136' post='2300339'] That looks gorgeous! I am now looking at my RBX370 and twitching.....(....flame maple.....transparent red lacquer.......) I need to lie down now. [/quote] Funny you should mention that combination... This was a full build I did recently for our band's bassist (yes - I know it's a 6-string but he's a bit odd like that). This one is actually a maple top rather than veneer, but for a basic flat-top, veneer comes out just as well. I used simple Permanent Red calligraphy ink for the stain and then, again, trusty Ronseal. I did the same for a myrtle veneer a while back for a friend. Go for it! After all, the worst that can happen is that you end up having to throw the bass away and take up knitting instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Thanks for posting the step by step there; I think I might have to revisit my plan to top my stripped Ibby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.jpg.7e18f76540598a8efc0e6ca9be453059.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.