Thomann selling Harley Benton basses as 'Decoration only'

[Annoying Twit]

I have the original paypal confirmation giving the correct amount, so that is evidence that I did actually apply the voucher on checkout. I've only just emailed Thomann this morning, so I'll have to wait to see what they say. I've heard that Thomann's customer service is good, and have experienced good customer service myself in the past.

Edited December 10, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[pfretrock]

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1418191226' post='2627768']
My tracking is showing 'received in destination country' at the moment, dated 11:32PM last night. I can't find the option to change the email tracking, but perhaps that's because I didn't use my phone.
[/quote]

Tracking options are at the bottom of the page where the tracking events are listed, under the heading "Notification Service". Perhaps you need to scroll down the page?

[Annoying Twit]

Yep, that was it. I didn't scroll down far enough.

[Maude]

Mine is now 'out for delivery', will report back tonight.

[Annoying Twit]

Mine has arrived. Cosmetically it looks utterly perfect, but the low E string rattles a bit when played down near the nut. As it's only the E string, I wonder if the nut is cut too low, rather than there being not enough relief, or even a back-bow, in the neck. Otherwise it appears that the action is comfortable and low (I haven't played fretless much), and it sounds reasonable for an acoustic. Even though I haven't put the flat wound strings on it, it doesn't sound too twangy. It looks very nice.

When I have time after work, I'm going to google filling in a nut with superglue and filing it back again.

I have talked to Thomann on the phone about the overcharging. They didn't believe me when I said that I had applied the voucher, but said that I can have it applied retrospectively.

Has anyone ever bought products from Thomann, using paypal to pay for them? If so, I would like to ask questions about the total order amount (including postage), what paypal said that you would pay, and the amount that was actually deducted.

Edited December 11, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[mcnach]

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1418291976' post='2628779']
Mine has arrived. Cosmetically it looks utterly perfect, but the low E string rattles a bit when played down near the nut. As it's only the E string, I wonder if the nut is cut too low, rather than there being not enough relief, or even a back-bow, in the neck. Otherwise it appears that the action is comfortable and low (I haven't played fretless much), and it sounds reasonable for an acoustic. Even though I haven't put the flat wound strings on it, it doesn't sound too twangy. It looks very nice.

When I have time after work, I'm going to google filling in a nut with superglue and filing it back again.

I have talked to Thomann on the phone about the overcharging. They didn't believe me when I said that I had applied the voucher, but said that I can have it applied retrospectively.

Has anyone ever bought products from Thomann, using paypal to pay for them? If so, I would like to ask questions about the total order amount (including postage), what paypal said that you would pay, and the amount that was actually deducted.
[/quote]

I suspect the exact amount may vary a bit, as exchange rates fluctuate (they operate in Euros), but it's not going to be a great change for the most part.

[Annoying Twit]

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1418295635' post='2628839']
I suspect the exact amount may vary a bit, as exchange rates fluctuate (they operate in Euros), but it's not going to be a great change for the most part.
[/quote]

It was ten euros different. It was clearly the case that the paypal confirmation to me included the voucher (or Thomann claim didn't include shipping), and the actual amount charged didn't include the voucher/did include shipping.

If I can find someone else who has purchased from Thomann by paypal, then it will be possible to work out what happened. If their paypal confirmation and actual debited amount differ by the postage, then Thomann are right. (And I'd think their system is stupid.) If not, then I'm right. Given how I was talked down to on the phone, I would like to know.

Edited December 11, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[kodiakblair]

AT

I just checked my orders from Thomann by PayPal. No overcharging so I checked the Thomann order I used the
voucher with. It shows item price then shipping then it shows the voucher refund and the voucher number.

Check your order if it was entered it'll show there.

[pfretrock]

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1418291976' post='2628779']
When I have time after work, I'm going to google filling in a nut with superglue and filing it back again.
[/quote]

If you intend a restring, I'd try that before nut filling/filing. How do you check relief on a fretless, a straight edge I presume?

[Annoying Twit]

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1418308223' post='2629008']
AT

I just checked my orders from Thomann by PayPal. No overcharging so I checked the Thomann order I used the
voucher with. It shows item price then shipping then it shows the voucher refund and the voucher number.

Check your order if it was entered it'll show there.
[/quote]

My Thomann order shows no voucher. But, it did when I checked out through paypal.

The crucial experiment is if you would be so kind as to check the amount that paypal said that Thomann would take in the initial email you received when you checked out, and compare that to the amount that they actually took. Is it more or less the same, or is it different?

[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1418308289' post='2629010']
If you intend a restring, I'd try that before nut filling/filing. How do you check relief on a fretless, a straight edge I presume?
[/quote]

I not only intend a restring, I intend to put some Fender flats on it. As they are going to be higher tension than the original strings (I think), that might bow the neck a bit more. My intended method of checking the relief was going to be to see if the strings were buzzing only in one part of the neck.

I've found some imperfections in the finish. There are some patches where the top wood isn't stained under the gloss finish. I think someone else noticed the same on their bass.

Edited December 11, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[kodiakblair]

They both say 44 euros AT.

I'm registered with Thomann so just paid through their site IIRC. Just checked the PayPal email for that sale,it only lists
the 44 euro to Thomann.

Nothing about what the money was for but VAT,postage and packaging are all zero. The next order to Thomann is the
same just the amount paid and it tallies up exactly with the Thomann order email.

[Annoying Twit]

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1418312890' post='2629078']
They both say 44 euros AT.

I'm registered with Thomann so just paid through their site IIRC. Just checked the PayPal email for that sale,it only lists
the 44 euro to Thomann.

Nothing about what the money was for but VAT,postage and packaging are all zero. The next order to Thomann is the
same just the amount paid and it tallies up exactly with the Thomann order email.
[/quote]

Thank you. Given that, the fact that I have an email from paypal stating the correct amount, but they took a different amount from the account, shows that Thomann, not me, made a mistake. They then tried to BS me this morning. Not pleased about that. It's one thing to make a mistake, all firms do that. What differentiates good firms from bad ones is how they handle mistakes. While I have had excellent service from Thomann in the past, in this case their representative tried to BS a customer who had been overcharged.

BTW: I'm also registered with Thomann, and paid through their site, clicking on the 'paypal' option for payment.

Edited December 11, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[kodiakblair]

That's bang out of order the way they're handling their mistake.

It's a no-brainer, you've got the paypal email they pay up no questions. You'll be contacting them higher up the ladder I trust.

This kind of thing sours the purchase.I'd be pointing them towards this thread highlighting those of us having no problems
as a reason for the purchase.Then this happens.

Get on the case AT and give them hell.

[rodma]

AT

I am starting down the neck of mine from the nut end and there is a definite wiggle for want of a better word at the fourth fret, which doesn't cause any buzz on the fretted model, but can see how it would if I dropped the action any further.

Be interested to see how you get on one you have swapped the strings and tweaked it a bit. I have the daddario black nylon on mine and am loving it

[Annoying Twit]

In hindsight, I think that the phosphor bronze strings that came stock on it sound fine. The Fender flatwounds are a bit more mellow, but lack a bit of the presence (may be misusing the word) that the phosphors have. The phosphors don't have that horrible twangy sound that many acoustic basses have, it's a nice warm sound. But, I really dislike string noise, so the flatwounds are definitely staying on.

The buzz is worse with the flatwounds on. It's now showing up particularly on the A on the 'second fret' of the top G string, and the B of the A string. This indicates a neck that is too straight, I believe. I've taken a quarter turn out of the truss rod as of a couple of hours ago. Still buzzing. I'll check again tomorrow. I must admit that I still think that the nut is cut too deep, but will try adjusting the truss rod further first. I can see some relief in the neck, I believe. I suspect that adding enough relief to cure the buzz will give me too high an action further up the neck, but I'll see.

I still haven't tried the plugged in sound. i put a battery in it, and the tuner works fine and has an easy to read display. It's better than I expected a built-in tuner to be. I've no idea what the 'phase' button is supposed to do.

EDIT: Ah, phase buttons are common on electro-acoustics. My Ovation six string doesn't have one. They invert the phase of the electric output. If the bass was being both DI'd and mic'd up at the same time, the distance of the mic from the body might mean that the two signals are out of phase, and hitting the phase button might give a better sound with less objectionable comb filtering.

Edited December 11, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[Bigwan]

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1418338595' post='2629431']
In hindsight, I think that the phosphor bronze strings that came stock on it sound fine. The Fender flatwounds are a bit more mellow, but lack a bit of the presence (may be misusing the word) that the phosphors have. The phosphors don't have that horrible twangy sound that many acoustic basses have, it's a nice warm sound. But, I really dislike string noise, so the flatwounds are definitely staying on.

The buzz is worse with the flatwounds on. It's now showing up particularly on the A on the 'second fret' of the top G string, and the B of the A string. This indicates a neck that is too straight, I believe. I've taken a quarter turn out of the truss rod as of a couple of hours ago. Still buzzing. I'll check again tomorrow. I must admit that I still think that the nut is cut too deep, but will try adjusting the truss rod further first. I can see some relief in the neck, I believe. I suspect that adding enough relief to cure the buzz will give me too high an action further up the neck, but I'll see.

I still haven't tried the plugged in sound. i put a battery in it, and the tuner works fine and has an easy to read display. It's better than I expected a built-in tuner to be. I've no idea what the 'phase' button is supposed to do.

EDIT: Ah, phase buttons are common on electro-acoustics. My Ovation six string doesn't have one. They invert the phase of the electric output. If the bass was being both DI'd and mic'd up at the same time, the distance of the mic from the body might mean that the two signals are out of phase, and hitting the phase button might give a better sound with less objectionable comb filtering.
[/quote]

Nothing to do with your nut. Once you 'fret' a note, the nut depth has zero bearing. If the open string was buzzing that would point to a low nut slot.

Edited December 12, 2014 by Bigwan

[Annoying Twit]

[quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1418377823' post='2629640']
Nothing to do with your nut. Once you 'fret' a note, the nut depth has zero bearing. If the open string was buzzing that would point to a low nut slot.
[/quote]

Yes, that's a D'oh moment. Failure to stop and think about things properly.

This morning I found that the buzz was less. I took off another 1/4 turn from the truss rod, and the buzz seems to have gone. I'll find out this evening when the neck has had time to settle and I check again.

[Annoying Twit]

The buzz is all gone. It was only the truss rod that needed adjusting, which I found surprising, as it was near unplayable. Imagine a beginner receiving a bass in the condition mine was in. The action is a bit higher now, but OK. If this was a solid body bass with an easily adjustable bridge, I wouldn't probably try lowering the bridge a bit. However, I'm going to leave it as it's OK and I don't want to be playing around with an acoustic bridge. This bass really is a bargain now. Particularly since the stock strings were entirely usable, even though I'm not using them.

[rodma]

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1418415360' post='2630122']
The buzz is all gone. It was only the truss rod that needed adjusting, which I found surprising, as it was near unplayable. Imagine a beginner receiving a bass in the condition mine was in. The action is a bit higher now, but OK. If this was a solid body bass with an easily adjustable bridge, I wouldn't probably try lowering the bridge a bit. However, I'm going to leave it as it's OK and I don't want to be playing around with an acoustic bridge. This bass really is a bargain now. Particularly since the stock strings were entirely usable, even though I'm not using them.
[/quote]

I'd expect It's the same for the non decor basses.

I had to tighten my truss rod up by a full turn to get it to how I like it.

Edited December 12, 2014 by rodma

[Annoying Twit]

What look to be strange marks on the back aren't there, they're reflections from the flash or something. Can anyone spot the two finish flaws on the front?

[quote name='rodma' timestamp='1418417867' post='2630157']
I'd expect It's the same for the non decor basses.

I had to tighten my truss rod up by a full turn to get it to how I like it.
[/quote]

Mine was pretty much unplayable out of the box, with the horrible buzz. I don't think that would be acceptable in a non-factory second bass.

Who was it that said "Early Christmas presents all round" early on in the thread? (Sorry for being lazy and not looking up the correct post). Edited December 12, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[NickD]

Mine came today, and I'm currently testing it prior to it being sent off to Santa for wrapping. First, the intonation is appalling... no, wait... I think that's me! I'm half wishing I'd gone for fretted, as I could play one of those properly. I honestly can't complain. Theres a 5mm knock on the back of the body where the neck heel is, the 9th fret marker is a bit oval, and the most significant flaw I can see is that the D & G string machine heads aren't quite at right angles to the headstock, just slightly on the piss. It's perfectly playable, decently finished, sounds ok, and the tuner works. As a busking bass, it's an absolute bargain... even the B string is passable. I'm just starting to wish it was lined.

[kodiakblair]

Is it the smear where your thumb might rest and the light spot on the upper curve near the binding AT?

[Annoying Twit]

[quote name='NickD' timestamp='1418420493' post='2630195']
I'm just starting to wish it was lined.
[/quote]

Marker pen?

Seriously though, it should be possible to add fret markers by cutting grooves and gluing in some light coloured veneer. Says me being a complete hypocrite because I'd never do that myself

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1418420716' post='2630198']
Is it the smear where your thumb might rest and the light spot on the upper curve near the binding AT?
[/quote]

Yep, those are the imperfections.

Edited December 12, 2014 by Annoying Twit

[NickD]

Lol. Nope!

When the fat beardy one hands it over (Santa, not the Wife) I'm determined to figure it out. More practice needed... much more practice!

[rodma]

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1418418400' post='2630164']


Who was it that said "Early Christmas presents all round" early on in the thread? (Sorry for being lazy and not looking up the correct post).
[/quote]

That was me

As far as the problems go, my j&d vintage 75 had taken a lot more work to get playable, having resorted to using two part filler on the nut, dressing the sharp end off the frets and lightly dressing the sixth fret on the g string , and it isn't sold as a "second " of any sort, but is recommended by many on here because if you know how to sort out the minor issues or can live with them (via higher action ) it's a great bass.

Tweaking a truss rod isn't so taxing, especially in this modern age with forums like this and many online tutorials of how to set up a stringed instrument.

Hope everyone is enjoying their bargain basses