Merton Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Haven't tried the electrics in mine but assuming he banana neck is the main "deco" reason behind it. TBh mine is purely for having an instrument to noodle on at work so electrics won't worry me too much. Hope you get it fixed cheaply if poss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) [quote name='paul h' timestamp='1441715992' post='2861110'] NDBD! My fretless acoustic 4 string has arrived. It arrived about 30 minutes ago. Like most have experienced it was very difficult to see why it was a deko. No marks except the stamped D. Neck straight, action ok. Stuck a battery in...the tuner worked well. Machineheads not the most positive in terms of feel and tuning stability not great initially but I am sure it will settle down. And herein lies the rub... Amplified the E string has very, very low output. Unusably low. The annoying thing is I would have been much happier with some cosmetic damage, or a truss rod that needed tweaking. Electronics are a black art to me. So I just have to hope that it's something to do with the strings. Which is a shame because the phosphor bronze ones on it feel quite nice...and probably won't be cheap! Later I will just put a different string on and see if there is a difference. [i]EDIT: I'm being an idiot aren't I? Can the string affect a piezo pickup?[/i] However, for £44 it's still a bargain just as an acoustic instrument. Plus, I can't actually play fretless (yet) so not being able to use it amplified is not a major issue. [/quote] Remove the strings, you should be able to lift out the white saddle piece and hopefully underneath there should be a piezo strip or strips. Check it is totally flat and extends right along the space and that the saddle sits completely flat upon it. If you plug the bass in and lightly tap the piezo with some thing metallic you may be able to locate a dead spot, if it works all along the strip then you should be OK. You may even have 2 strips which start in the middle and go outwards to the edges of the bridge. Even if there is a fault, a new piezo strip is cheapish and fairly easy to replace, if you have small hands! Edited September 8, 2015 by yorks5stringer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul h Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Ooh thanks guys! I will have a tinker and report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul h Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Well. Wellity, wellity, wellity. Curiouser and curiouser. I followed Yorks advice and unearthed the magic strip of power! It was covered in some kind of thin black force field. This protective field was thick and robust at the E but tapered away to nought at the G. So I scraped the bugger off So now the E and G share the low output duties while the A and D are ear splittingly loud. I feel like I've made progress I now realise that the low output is the output I'm aiming for. The thing has a far higher output than my electric basses so taming it somewhat would be a result. I will go in again for a prod around another time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annoying Twit Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 This is an interesting reason for an instrument being a deko. Good luck with sorting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 [quote name='paul h' timestamp='1441722580' post='2861206'] Well. Wellity, wellity, wellity. Curiouser and curiouser. I followed Yorks advice and unearthed the magic strip of power! It was covered in some kind of thin black force field. This protective field was thick and robust at the E but tapered away to nought at the G. So I scraped the bugger off So now the E and G share the low output duties while the A and D are ear splittingly loud. I feel like I've made progress I now realise that the low output is the output I'm aiming for. The thing has a far higher output than my electric basses so taming it somewhat would be a result. I will go in again for a prod around another time. [/quote] Just use some masking/insulting tape cut to size on the A and D? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low End Bee Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 [quote name='Low End Bee' timestamp='1441714098' post='2861077'] My JB75-NA has turned up at work. £37.62 including delivery. A quick visual inspection and I can't see anything amiss. Intrigued to see what's supposed to be wrong with it when I get it home. [/quote] Got it home and had a proper look. What's wrong? The neck plate is a bit squiffy. The neck end bass side screw is a little closer to the edge than you'd probably like. I've given it a good hard wiggle and its rock solid. Apart from that it all works. Plugged in it's very nice. Set up is superb. I could gig with it right now.I might need a padded strap though it's 70s bad Fender heavy. Insane amount of bass for the money. £15 worth of strings on it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annoying Twit Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 That's a great result Low End Bee. I've just used my ground pincers to try pulling at the frets of the neck that Andytre gave me. They are in firmly, but don't appear to be glued in. They pull out. I pushed them back in again when I realised that they were moving, but I guess that since I've started, I should continue. Now to work out what glue I need to sick in some veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincam Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) How are people getting playable Dekos out the box I've had a few now and not one has had decent frets that are anywhere near acceptable. In fact I've had a few new harley bentons, basses and guitars and the frets really were not great either on new ones. Is it bad luck or are people not fussy over not having level frets with any sort of finish. I should add I do have high setup standards and I see no reason why a cheap bass shouldn't be setup as good as any high end boutique bass, After I've worked on it. I don't expect hb basses to be great out the box but non of them come close to my standard and the Deko ones I've had a terrible Edited September 8, 2015 by Twincam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbyrne Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 My Deco 5 string acoustic is fine, but it's fretless !! Actually all it needed was a tweak of the truss rod and the bridge saddle lifting a smidgeon. I'll probably take the nut slots down a bit soon too. Otherwise, great!! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincam Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 [quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1441738422' post='2861404'] My Deco 5 string acoustic is fine, but it's fretless !! Actually all it needed was a tweak of the truss rod and the bridge saddle lifting a smidgeon. I'll probably take the nut slots down a bit soon too. Otherwise, great!! G. [/quote] Haha. I've had them in perfect cosmetic condition and close to being perfect. But always had to put a fair bit of work into the frets to get them right. Surprisingly the nuts have all been really good. Had a few electrical problems too but nothing really bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annoying Twit Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) Maybe I'm less fussy than other people. The fret edges of my PJ feel fine to me. Not the smoothest I've felt, but I can't feel anything sharp. The bass won't take a super-low action without buzzing. I did buy a fret file with my last deko purchase, but haven't tried using it yet. My acoustic is fretless. I've looked carefully, but can't see any sign of the hump in the fretboard that some people have had. Edited September 8, 2015 by Annoying Twit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Mine have been fine, no issues with the neck at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 [quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1441734452' post='2861353'] That's a great result Low End Bee. I've just used my ground pincers to try pulling at the frets of the neck that Andytre gave me. They are in firmly, but don't appear to be glued in. They pull out. I pushed them back in again when I realised that they were moving, but I guess that since I've started, I should continue. Now to work out what glue I need to sick in some veneer. [/quote] I just used PVA as it gives you some time to make sure the veneers are firmly in and your fingers don't end up sticking to each other. Superglue is quicker and just seeps into the gap but is harder to remove once dried, a damp cloth removes PVA before set.. I found it useful to shape my veneers with a small curve and a tiny hump in the middle as whilst I did clean out the nuts slots and deepen them slightly, the veneers were tipping when put in the fret slots. It just helps them seat better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alyctes Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 [quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1441727842' post='2861270'] Just use some masking/insulting tape cut to size on the A and D? [/quote] Derek and Clive cassette? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annoying Twit Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) [quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1441751657' post='2861561'] I just used PVA as it gives you some time to make sure the veneers are firmly in and your fingers don't end up sticking to each other. Superglue is quicker and just seeps into the gap but is harder to remove once dried, a damp cloth removes PVA before set.. I found it useful to shape my veneers with a small curve and a tiny hump in the middle as whilst I did clean out the nuts slots and deepen them slightly, the veneers were tipping when put in the fret slots. It just helps them seat better. [/quote] Thanks. All the frets are out now, so I need to order some veneer. The fret slots are a bit sharp and rough, but I don't think this is damage done when removing frets, but is the way they were cut originally. I'll definitely use PVA rather than CA glue, as it's more reversible. Edited September 9, 2015 by Annoying Twit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee-Man Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 My 70's type jazz has arrived. Its much better than the bass I started on 25 years ago! Its got a bit of a dip half way down the neck and the action is a bit high. Also under the control plate is miss routed and the neck plate is a bit wonky. But, it sounds pretty good, is fun to play and cost £31. Can't complain for the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 [quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1441751835' post='2861564'] Derek and Clive cassette? [/quote] I always use the term "insulting tape" to see if others pick up on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annoying Twit Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 [quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1441751657' post='2861561'] I just used PVA as it gives you some time to make sure the veneers are firmly in and your fingers don't end up sticking to each other. Superglue is quicker and just seeps into the gap but is harder to remove once dried, a damp cloth removes PVA before set.. I found it useful to shape my veneers with a small curve and a tiny hump in the middle as whilst I did clean out the nuts slots and deepen them slightly, the veneers were tipping when put in the fret slots. It just helps them seat better. [/quote] I've bought some zebra wood veneer to put in the slots. Since the veneer is 0.6mm wide and the slot looks about 1mm, does that mean that I need to put in two layers to fill the slots? Or does the glue fill in the rest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 [quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1441779596' post='2861611'] Thanks. All the frets are out now, so I need to order some veneer. The fret slots are a bit sharp and rough, but I don't think this is damage done when removing frets, but is the way they were cut originally. I'll definitely use PVA rather than CA glue, as it's more reversible. [/quote] I found it useful (once I'd trimmed off the veneers and started to sand/re-profile the neck) to save the sawdust, as when mixed with PVA it fills any gaps in the fingerboard or slot ends and is the correct colour too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 [quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1441796155' post='2861792'] I've bought some zebra wood veneer to put in the slots. Since the veneer is 0.6mm wide and the slot looks about 1mm, does that mean that I need to put in two layers to fill the slots? Or does the glue fill in the rest? [/quote] Have you tried a piece of veneer in the slot, just cut a piece off to use as you will have loads left. I found I had to actually thin my veneer down by sanding each piece on a flat surface and on both sides. Would be surprised if the slot is as wide as you think once the veneer is in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blablas Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Standard fret tangs are 0.6 mm thick so the the fret slots won't be that much bigger. One layer should be enough, you probably won't be able to get two layers in the fret slot anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annoying Twit Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 Me? Re-profile a fretboard? I was hoping that I could sand it carefully so that the profile doesn't change significantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) [quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1441806956' post='2861932'] Me? Re-profile a fretboard? I was hoping that I could sand it carefully so that the profile doesn't change significantly. [/quote] Then carefully save the sawdust to use as filler! Other fillers are available but this should match. Edited September 9, 2015 by yorks5stringer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 And on it goes. Spotted a Harley Benton Kahuna fretless U-bass listed as "deko" for €49 instead of the usual €129 list. I really like my fretted Kahuna but I can hardly justify buying the fretless at full price. Bought the "deko" version, and I've just spent 30 minutes trying to figure out why it's 62% off. Nope. No idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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