Extending control cavity

[KingBollock]

I had to change the battery in my Warlock last night and had a bit of a look ' round in there. It is bloomin' tiny! The pre-amp is just sitting loose on top of a bunch of wires, as is the battery, there has been no attempt whatsoever to make space by only having the wiring as long as it needs to be. But I knew all this from a quick squint at it when I first got it. What I hadn't spotted, under all that wire, was the pots, they look like the smallest, cheapest pots you can get. I don't like that, I even installed CTS pots in my Westfield. But the cavity isn't big enough to put better pots in.
I am fairly sure I could remove enough wood from around the pots without going beyond the cavity cover limits. I would have to change the locations of the screws but I was going to install brass inserts anyway because the screw holes are threaded. Which means replacing the cover, too.
The thing is, I was considering replacing the pre-amp at some point. I had been hoping that installing a battery box would give me enough space for the pre-amp I want, but I now don't think it will. The idea of routing the bass scares me silly. I have a router but I would need to get some forstner drill bits. But I don't think I have the guts to do it myself.
I am thinking that the best thing to do would be increase the size of the cavity, rather than just add a battery box. I was hoping to have space to install a couple of switches, too.

Is it possible to double the size of the cavity without having to do any refinishing? I would shield the cavity so the exposed wood inside would be covered. I am thinking it must be possible if done carefully enough... If I were to do the sensible thing and take it to a luthier, what sort of costs would likely be involved?

Does anyone know of a good luthier in south west Wales?

I adore this bass. I had been gassing for one for over 20 years. It plays beautifully. It's just the electrics that concern me (there have been other problems but I sorted them). So I think the work would be worth doing.

[yorks5stringer]

Goes w/o saying if you increase the size of the cavity, you'll need a new cover too. I'd just check very carefully the area you want to increase in size does not impinge on any other area of the Bass, you can take wood away but its very difficult to put it back if you go too far...
It's not a big job per se for a luthier but they'd need to make a template. Is the area around the existing cavity flat, if not that makes it more difficult, usually these things are all routed before the body is finally shaped.

[KingBollock]

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1390777232' post='2349495']
Goes w/o saying if you increase the size of the cavity, you'll need a new cover too. I'd just check very carefully the area you want to increase in size does not impinge on any other area of the Bass, you can take wood away but its very difficult to put it back if you go too far...
It's not a big job per se for a luthier but they'd need to make a template. Is the area around the existing cavity flat, if not that makes it more difficult, usually these things are all routed before the body is finally shaped.
[/quote]
The area around the existing cavity is flat and there is plenty of room to expand into. I am aware that no matter what I do, unless I choose to leave it as it is (but where's the fun in that?) I will have to replace the cover. I was thinking of making a laminate of ebony veneer (to match the fretboard) and a thin sheet of aluminium (perhaps 0.5mm or 1mm, depending on weight) for strength and shielding.

[neepheid]

What's wrong with the pots, other than your objection to their size and your perception of their quality?

[KingBollock]

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1390781920' post='2349562']
What's wrong with the pots, other than your objection to their size and your perception of their quality?
[/quote]
Probably nothing! The centre detent on the treble knob is almost no existent, which is a little annoying because I do use it a lot, often going from centre to rolled off and back again. I am also not happy with the blend pot but I am not entirely sure it's the pot's fault. When centred there is a noticeable drop in oomph. That's the best way to describe it. It's also wired backwards but obviously that wouldn't require changing the pot.
The biggest thing is that I would like to replace the pre-amp and the one I want to replace it with comes with the pots, which simply won't fit as it is. It also comes with 2 switches that also won't fit.
Even if I didn't replace the pre-amp, I like tinkering, that's why I have replaced all the pots in my other basses and guitars. I had to remove wood to get the CTS pots into my Westfield, too, but not much and it was only my Westfield.

[hamfist]

If you've already go a router I can't see why you shouldn't do the job yourself. You don't actually "need" forstner bits. Just a plain old straight router bit (I use a 6mm for stuff like that). Just go slow and steady, enlarging the cavity you have. I did much the same to an alder P bass body yesterday. I'd done pickup cavities before and this was the same, just bigger.
Protect the exposed surface around the area with tape of some sort (I use sellotape as it's the thinnest and least likely to catch on the routing guide). A luthier will charge you an arm and a leg to do that sort of work.

[KingBollock]

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1390806753' post='2349607']
If you've already go a router I can't see why you shouldn't do the job yourself. You don't actually "need" forstner bits. Just a plain old straight router bit (I use a 6mm for stuff like that). Just go slow and steady, enlarging the cavity you have. I did much the same to an alder P bass body yesterday. I'd done pickup cavities before and this was the same, just bigger.
Protect the exposed surface around the area with tape of some sort (I use sellotape as it's the thinnest and least likely to catch on the routing guide). A luthier will charge you an arm and a leg to do that sort of work.
[/quote]
Mostly I am afraid of mucking up the finish, chipping it or something, because I know that that isn't something I could fix myself. It's not even the main cavity part that bothers me, it's the shallow recess for the cover that I am worried about, the delicate part. Perhaps a Dremel router attachment would be a better idea for me? And I'm a big girl's blouse.

Edited January 27, 2014 by KingBollock

[Grissle]

You can buy top quality mini-pots
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/CPCL25/CTS-25K-Long-Shaft-Audio-Taper-Guitar-Volume-Tone-Pot.html

http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=330928228362

In your situation I would upgrade the pots to some nice mini's, clean up the wiring and either install a battery clip in the cavity or route for a separate battery compartment. I would lean towards the battery compartment myself they're so convenient.
A picture of your electronics cavity would also help us layout your options.

Edited January 27, 2014 by Grissle

[gelfin]

If you can make the trip to Cardiff this guy will be able to help you out.
Contact him first, don't just turn up.
https://www.facebook.com/dave.dearnaley

[hamfist]

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1390807750' post='2349615']
Perhaps a Dremel router attachment would be a better idea for me? And I'm a big girl's blouse.
[/quote]

Yes, I use a Dremel with the Dremel routing attachment. It's easy peasy to use, and with some protective tape on your finish plus a bit of care, I can't imagine that someone with a bit of basic DIY or woodworking skill wouldn't be able to do it without damaging the finish.

[Big_Stu]

If it's got a scratchplate, have a new small rout put underneath it?
It's where the onboard overdrive lives on my custom. Which left enough space between the pots to have a flip up battery holder installed into the rear cavity cover.