deefer_dog Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 So, ye may call me mad, but I have a major sweet spot for my Fleabass! The sound through my EBS, with mids boosted is sweet, and, it's FUN to play! Anyhoo, I was playing a gig befpre Christmas, aaaaannnnnd someone stood on the cable, as I was moving around, and there was a 'ca-CHUNK'. The body, surrounding the jack socket, cracked, and basically, is kind of shagged! I didn't realize how thin the wood was around there. Any suggestions/ideas? I do love the bass, for the reasons I mentioned. Maybe perspex to cover the top side of the bass? Quote
alyctes Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) Ouch... I have a Cort C4P with a similar problem, so I've been thinking about this. I think the best bet will be to [b]carefully[/b] remove the jack and all the electrics from the cavity and make a carefully-shaped piece of aluminium or steel plate to put in the cavity, then glue and clamp up the fragments and the plate so that the plate supports the fragments from behind, if you get my drift. Obviously the plate would have to be drilled to let the jack pass through. Problems with this I can see are: - the bits may fall out and might be beyond reassembly. I think that photos and slow-drying glue should sort this. - for this reason, the jack would have to be held tightly while unscrewing the nut which holds it. - I think it would be wise to earth the plate. - there may not be enough space in the cavity for the plate (especially since it's conductive - the electrics would have to be separated from it). - the cracks will probably always be visible if you look closely. I think it's probably a luthier job, TBH. I'd get an estimate first, personally. Edited January 27, 2014 by alyctes Quote
alyctes Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 I guess the other option is a custom scratchplate, with the controls and the jack mounted on it. This would probably mean removing all the electrics, routing out the front of the cavity so it's tidy, and mounting controls and jack on it. That would be a lot simpler, and because your bass already has a scratchplate it should be manageable without changing the setup much. You might have problems if the body shape curves away from the plane of the existing scratchplate though - I don't know how easy it is to put a permanent curve in a scratchplate. Quote
yorks5stringer Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 (edited) You or a Luthier to plug with wood, redrill and re-route the cavity , then you want something similar to the plastic/metal that goes around a pickup selector on a Les Paul type guitar on the upper side. BTW who's nicked all your scratchplate screws..? Edited January 27, 2014 by yorks5stringer Quote
BassBus Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 Just a thought, why not take it to a luthier who might be able to remove the damaged wood with a router. An extra area around the damaged area could be routed and a new piece of wood stuck in flush with the face. Whether or not that is refinished is up to you. I'm sure a competent luthier could do that. Cost might be off putting though. Quote
deefer_dog Posted January 27, 2014 Author Posted January 27, 2014 [quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1390850858' post='2350421'] You or a Luthier to plug with wood, redrill and re-route the cavity , then you want something similar to the plastic/metal that goes around a pickup selector on a Les Paul type guitar on the upper side. BTW who's nicked all your scratchplate screws..? [/quote] Being a Fleabass, it came with a small orange scratchplate, held on with strong tape, I had a spare MM style guard at home, so planked it on there with equally strong tape! A friend suggested oversized brass or SS washers, may try that as a temp fix as the bass still functions perfectly Quote
deefer_dog Posted January 27, 2014 Author Posted January 27, 2014 A luthier is out of the question, unfortunately, due to cost (and me back in college with no income........ :-/ ). I just had a brain fart, the college I go to, has a luthier class. I'll see what the cost is there Quote
discreet Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 [quote name='deefer_dog' timestamp='1390858892' post='2350653'] I just had a brain fart, the college I go to, has a luthier class. I'll see what the cost is there [/quote] Yeah, students never pay full price for anything, do they? Quote
deefer_dog Posted January 27, 2014 Author Posted January 27, 2014 Heh heh heh.... I do, unfortunately! Including course fees Quote
pete.young Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 An ordinary Stingray control plate might sort this out. It would look slightly weird and leave a nasty mess underneath but it would be cheap and wouldnt need luthier input. Quote
BassBunny Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 Get BassDoc to make a scratch plate similar to a Tony Levin OLP. Likely to be the tidiest and most cost effective solution. Likey So. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/bass/olp-tony-levin-signature-5-string-bass Quote
discreet Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 [quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1390865107' post='2350808'] Get BassDoc to make a scratch plate similar to a Tony Levin OLP. Likely to be the tidiest and most cost effective solution. Likey So. [/quote] Getting The Bass Doc involved is always a good idea. Quote
gjones Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 [quote name='deefer_dog' timestamp='1390849210' post='2350372'] So, ye may call me mad, but I have a major sweet spot for my Fleabass! The sound through my EBS, with mids boosted is sweet, and, it's FUN to play! Anyhoo, I was playing a gig befpre Christmas, aaaaannnnnd someone stood on the cable, as I was moving around, and there was a 'ca-CHUNK'. The body, surrounding the jack socket, cracked, and basically, is kind of shagged! I didn't realize how thin the wood was around there. Any suggestions/ideas? I do love the bass, for the reasons I mentioned. Maybe perspex to cover the top side of the bass? [/quote] How about installing a Stratocaster style input. You'd just need to make the hole a little bigger and drill a couple of holes for the screws like this . http://axeblaster.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/5input.jpg Quote
hamfist Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 I'd say the cheapest (and yet still reasonably cosmetic) fix would to be to make up a small (ie. about 1.5-2" diameter) round black bit of scratchplate to simply go over the top of the broken bit (like you were going to use your washers). Fix your jack in the middle of it. I've seen it done on many basses and it doesn't look too bad. It also it very quick and easy, so the cost is kept down. Quote
KingBollock Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 I'd go with a scratchplate, and I'm not usually a fan of scratchplates. If it were mine I would be tempted to fashion a piece of stainless steel into a banana shape and have it go under the knobs, too, if the wood is that thin... Just another idea, but I think it would look good. Quote
iamtheelvy Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Gaffer tape!! On reflection, a luthier will probably do a better job... They may be able to do a repair job on the wood, but that won't solve the issue of it being so thin. A sturdy scratchplate may be the business. Quote
Fionn Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 [quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1390893264' post='2350871'] I'd say the cheapest (and yet still reasonably cosmetic) fix would to be to make up a small (ie. about 1.5-2" diameter) round black bit of scratchplate to simply go over the top of the broken bit (like you were going to use your washers). Fix your jack in the middle of it. I've seen it done on many basses and it doesn't look too bad. It also it very quick and easy, so the cost is kept down. [/quote] This Quote
iamtheelvy Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 It would be a simple fix. Also gives you the chance to have something to blend in or contrast with the bass. Quote
RAY AGAINST THE MACHINE Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 That looks painful. Yeah, take it to a tech . I had the same type of accident with my Washburn status. Lucky for me, it was only the jack affected. I feel your pain Quote
deefer_dog Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Cheers for the replies, will get it done asap. I'll see if I have any scratch plates around. I may have one from the SJB I could em...... modify May make a template from my EST 96 (Vintage MM clone - Kiddies nightmare), and get black perspex. Edited January 28, 2014 by deefer_dog Quote
Big_Stu Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 [quote name='deefer_dog' timestamp='1390944953' post='2351688'] Cheers for the replies, will get it done asap. I'll see if I have any scratch plates around. I may have one from the SJB I could em...... modify May make a template from my EST 96 (Vintage MM clone - Kiddies nightmare), and get black perspex. [/quote] I've seen a few EB3's with that problem. On the inside put what's called a repair washer - basically a bl**dy big washer - you may have to get the centre hole reamed out bigger for the jack plug if you can't get one big enough - and, for now, as a cosmetic fix on the outside - and plenty of colours available - how about the Rhythm/Treble switch plate off a Les Paul turned face down? When you've time to look at it - I'd keep the internal repair washer in place for strength - glued in place and then reglue all the broken pieces down to that. Bit of a jigsaw puzzle but then you may find a car touch up paint for the cracks that's a close enough match. Quote
KingBollock Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) You could get adventurous with a scratchplate. Try different materials, metals like: copper, bronze, steel, aluminium or brass; or different woods or plastics. And go crazy with the shape. Some of those could be achieved by layering, which has very interesting possibilities, you could have a nice rosewood base with aluminium details on top, all sorts of things. Even if you don't like my ideas, maybe someone might. That'd be cool. Might end up looking a bit Traben, though... Edited January 28, 2014 by KingBollock Quote
deefer_dog Posted January 29, 2014 Author Posted January 29, 2014 It'll be different looking, even now, with the MM style guard, it looks a lot different, and with the other plate, will look better. (Call me mad, but I prefer the stock PU to the often used EMG-HZ that people use instead). Quote
mcnach Posted January 29, 2014 Posted January 29, 2014 a metal control plate to cover the damage? easy to install... and there are many types/shapes around! Quote
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