Clean up old bass

[crashdesk]

I know there are various threads and info scattered around here and the internet at large but I was hoping to get all that in one place, here and for it to be bespoke to my bass.

I have an old music master bass which is in okay condition. Main things are that there are chips out if the body and the laquer is coming off the head.
I don't want to fully restore the bass as this adds character but I do wang to clean it up a bit.

Main areas are:
1. Fret board and frets (rosewood). Just some gunk and tarnished.
2. Bridge including string saddles. There is done rust in these.
3. Tunjng keys and string guide. Slightly rusted.

Any advice in how to clean these up properly would be greatly appreciated :-)

Thanks,
Clinton

[Big_Stu]

[quote name='crashdesk' timestamp='1391640526' post='2359764']
I know there are various threads and info scattered around here and the internet at large but I was hoping to get all that in one place, here and for it to be bespoke to my bass.

I have an old music master bass which is in okay condition. Main things are that there are chips out if the body and the laquer is coming off the head.
I don't want to fully restore the bass as this adds character but I do wang to clean it up a bit.

Main areas are:
1. Fret board and frets (rosewood). Just some gunk and tarnished.
2. Bridge including string saddles. There is done rust in these.
3. Tunjng keys and string guide. Slightly rusted.

Any advice in how to clean these up properly would be greatly appreciated :-)

Thanks,
Clinton
[/quote]

How old is old? Old enough to have a nitro finish, or just looks old, a bit shabby?

A bottle of Lemon Oil cleaner will work wonders on the neck. Available for not much at any decent guitar shop or the i'net. Put it on a cloth not onto the wood & rub it in & it'll clean the rosewood and the frets. Repeat the process every six months & it'll keep the neck in good nick.
The hard ware will be either chrome or nickel plated depending on age. what was called "Duraglit" but is now "Brasso" wadding will be good on the rust, but if it's established hard rust it probably won't get rid of it completely. But it's also good for cleaning up a grubby bass body too. Don't do it too hard on the body (assuming it looks a bit dull too) IF it's a nitro finish it is possible for that polish to be rubbed through it, especially on a sunburst finish.

Edited February 5, 2014 by Big_Stu

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='crashdesk' timestamp='1391640526' post='2359764']
I know there are various threads and info scattered around here and the internet at large but I was hoping to get all that in one place, here and for it to be bespoke to my bass.

I have an old music master bass which is in okay condition. Main things are that there are chips out if the body and the laquer is coming off the head.
I don't want to fully restore the bass as this adds character but I do wang to clean it up a bit.

Main areas are:
1. Fret board and frets (rosewood). Just some gunk and tarnished.
2. Bridge including string saddles. There is done rust in these.
3. Tunjng keys and string guide. Slightly rusted.

Any advice in how to clean these up properly would be greatly appreciated :-)

Thanks,
Clinton
[/quote]

There's a lot of supposed dos and don'ts when it comes to cleaning a fretboard. Personally, I ignore most of them. Grab a bottle of something that you clean your guitars with (Dunlop and D'Addario manufacture these. A few pounds a bottle, usually), squirt some onto the fretboard, with a toothbrush or some other soft bristled brush, give it a good scrub. Don't soak the wood, and don't scrub too hard. Once it's clean, give it a rub down with a paper towel, to get rid of any grime that still lingering, and then seal the wood with linseed oil or lemon oil - this step shouldn't be done too often. Maybe once per year.

As for the rusty parts, there's not much can be done about the rust. Try some t-cut - that might help the look of it.

That's just what I would do. Doubtless somebody will be along soon to call me a halfwit, so I dunno, you can decide yourself whether you want to take my advice or not. Either way, I hope you get it all shined up nicely

[crashdesk]

Different opinions on old, but it's 1978. It's actually a Fender Musicmaster.

Thanks for all the advice.

Does anyone, per chance, know what the metal/finish the bridge/saddles are, just so I know I am applying the right stuff.

Thanks,
Clinton

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='crashdesk' timestamp='1391679501' post='2359966']
Different opinions on old, but it's 1978. It's actually a Fender Musicmaster.

Thanks for all the advice.

Does anyone, per chance, know what the metal/finish the bridge/saddles are, just so I know I am applying the right stuff.

Thanks,
Clinton
[/quote]

Most likely chrome plated steel. Some hardware is painted, and some has no finish, but I'd make a good guess that it's chrome plated steel - that's pretty much the standard. If it's rusted, you won't get rid of the rust - it's always going to look (and be) rusty. Giving it a polish might help the look of it somewhat, but unfortunately, the only way to get rid of rust is to physically get rid of it (i.e. replace the parts). If you want to keep the original parts of the bass, I'm sure you'd be able to send them off somewhere to be sand blasted and replated. If you post some pictures it might be a bit easier for us to give you better help

[Adrenochrome]

One tip for restoring rusted chrome is to use an acid to return some of the corroded metal back to metal - coke can work well for this.
Also, once your neck is sufficiently clean, I wouldn't use lemon oil for further cleaning as it dries the wood.

[geoffbyrne]

+1 on the coke.......

G.

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Adrenochrome' timestamp='1391681954' post='2360011']
I wouldn't use lemon oil for further cleaning as it dries the wood.
[/quote]

Some like lemon oil, personally, I'd rather use linseed oil - it seals the pores of the timber.

[Big_Stu]

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1391684454' post='2360057']
Some like lemon oil, personally, I'd rather use linseed oil - it seals the pores of the timber.[/quote]

I'm guessing you mean Boiled linseed oil as opposed to standard "raw" linseed oil? The raw will take ages to dry, on a wood like rosewood possibly days. Boiled linseed is a cocktail, does the same job, not quite as long lasting, but dries quickly.

Using lemon oil based cleaner is safe if done every six months never any more, over-use can loosen the frets. There's nothing to stop you polishing the neck with other polishes in-between times.

Finding a place that will re-chrome cheaply won't be as easy as it was, it causes a lot of pollution & many have given up. It's an expensive process so many of those that do prefer to wait until there's a batch of items to be done together to make it cost effective for them, which can mean a long wait for parts to be returned. Nickel plating is more easily available.
The OP has a plater that can do both in "NewtownAbbey" who could advise??

[steve-bbb]

[quote name='Adrenochrome' timestamp='1391681954' post='2360011']
One tip for restoring rusted chrome is to use an acid to return some of the corroded metal back to metal - coke can work well for this.
Also, once your neck is sufficiently clean, I wouldn't use lemon oil for further cleaning as it dries the wood.
[/quote]

+1 for the coca cola (works on rust stains in textiles too)

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Big_Stu' timestamp='1391685814' post='2360086']
The OP has a plater that can do both in "NewtownAbbey" who could advise??
[/quote]

No, I would never advise going to Newtownabbey

[crashdesk]

Regarding the 'Chrome' I will try and clean up as best as possible and use preventative measures from here on in. Fine balance between keeping thing original and keeping a bass in good knick. I know it isn't an antique, yet :-) but if something was re-coated it would seriously devalue an item. I would be content with cleaning some of the rust without damage and leaving the rest to show the age.

I think I will stick to a brand cleaner so thanks for that advice.

I will be doing the dreaded clean this weekend and let you know how it goes. I'll also try and get some pics up.

Thanks again,
Clinton

[Paul S]

I have a 70s Fender Musicmaster that was rather scruffy when I picked it up. The bridge is an uncomplicated affair that comes apart quite nicely enabling you to get into the nooks and crannies. T Cut and an old toothbrush really do work wonders. Not tried the coke thing though. i wonder if Coke Zero would be the same? Maybe if I wanted to fit lighter gauge strings...

[attachment=154431:musicmaster4.jpg]

As an aside, I have modded it by having fitted a Precision split coil pickup with a new scratchplate and wiring loom. Sounds brilliant.

[crashdesk]

That bridge looks pretty darn good. May give the coke/aluminium on a small area and if all else fails get some T-Cut.

@Paul_S Did you have to polish the body at all? I will be looking to do that also. I did notice that some kind of thin glue has got onto parts of the body. For example, if you breath on it and then rub, you get this film like residue of a sticker on it. If you keep trying to polish it you end up just moving it all over the bass.

Some ideas for the body would be good too.

Thanks!

[Big_Stu]

[quote name='crashdesk' timestamp='1391694805' post='2360273'] you get this film like residue of a sticker on it. If you keep trying to polish it you end up just moving it all over the bass.[/quote]

Lighter fuel, (petrol not gas) will take that off in seconds and evaporates so quickly it doesn't go everywhere. WD40 is claimed to do the same but I wouldn't want to risk that going into electrics.
You might want to check out a Gibson guitar renovation kit, which has renovation polish, lemon oil & metal cleaner, polishing cloths & a diddy brush for bridge cleaning, all in one pack - I paid about £10 for mine.......
[url="http://www.musicjunkie.co.uk/product/Gibson-Vintage-Reissue-Guitar-Restoration-Kit?gclid=CLXZlcHYt7wCFQQGwwod6hMAxg"]http://www.musicjunkie.co.uk/product/Gibson-Vintage-Reissue-Guitar-Restoration-Kit?gclid=CLXZlcHYt7wCFQQGwwod6hMAxg[/url]

[Paul S]

[quote name='crashdesk' timestamp='1391694805' post='2360273']
That bridge looks pretty darn good. May give the coke/aluminium on a small area and if all else fails get some T-Cut.

@Paul_S Did you have to polish the body at all? I will be looking to do that also. I did notice that some kind of thin glue has got onto parts of the body. For example, if you breath on it and then rub, you get this film like residue of a sticker on it. If you keep trying to polish it you end up just moving it all over the bass.

Some ideas for the body would be good too.

Thanks!
[/quote]

T Cut again, nothing complicated. I completely dismantled it to get in behind all the plates/knobs etc. And to get all the gunk out from beside the fretwires just a damp cloth and my fingernail. For really stubborn bits the blunt edge of a Stanley blade behind the cloth. I gave the rosewood board a liberal application of lemon oil as it looked really pale and dry, left it a while then buffed it up.

[crashdesk]

@Paul going to pick up some T Cut today. Are there different types and which one did you use? Also, did you do it by hand or have a rotary buffer.

Took parts off and started cleaning last night with some duraglit and tin foil. Worked really well. Frets are cleaned and saddles/bridge too. Will hopefully get pics up tomorrow.

Thanks again.

[crashdesk]

Okay, after a weekend of buffing the bass (not a euphemism) here are some, not so great pics. One is a before shot, of the bridge. One of on the head which I am happy to leave. It's just the lacquer is coming off.

[url="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qbuz8daiknnlfcq/9snrwE20hI"]https://www.dropbox....lfcq/9snrwE20hI[/url]

I'm really pleased with the outcome, so thanks for all your input. There were times when it was frustrating, like the time I screwed the scratch plate back on and I had forgot to put the 2 springs on the back of the pickup.
Most of the swirls are gone and few deep scratches are left. Happy with that though because I jus wanted to put a bit of life back into the finish without an overhaul.

There is one small bubble on the body. I think it may be a cigarette burn, "Rock n Roll".

I actaully also found out why the bass sounds so good. I thought it had the original 6 pole telecaster pickup, but it turns out that it was swapper for a Seymour Duncan scpb-2.

One think I would have to fix is the height the pickup is sitting at. The screws don't actually hold it in as the plastic holes in the pickup can't hold it. I am assuming, from other pics I have seen, that there should be 2 nuts for the screws. There is one visible here, http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/blackinternational/guitar%20stuff/Image003.jpg on the original pickup. Anyone know where to get a couple that will fit the threading of these screws. I may just have to visit a hardware store with the screw and try a few :-)

Thanks again,
Clinton

Edited February 9, 2014 by crashdesk

[Ticktock]

Plater in Newtownabbey just off Ballyhenry road, or there used to be. One or two larger operations were in Mallusk Industrial Estate.
Milty restrain your inner culchie! ;-)

[Big_Stu]

Any decent DIY shop, (not your B&Qs type jobbies) should be able to find new "bolts" (not screws) to match the thread in your pickup. They should also find one for the missing one on your G machine.
Failing that on your pickup a couple of self-tapping screws would work, maybe get a bit of fuel-line or similar if you have a model-shop near you to work as springs.

Very nice bass btw - you've done a good job.

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='Ticktock' timestamp='1391965320' post='2363066']
Plater in Newtownabbey just off Ballyhenry road, or there used to be. One or two larger operations were in Mallusk Industrial Estate.
Milty restrain your inner culchie! ;-)
[/quote]

I'm not quite sure what you mean, sur. Now I'm away on - da has his tractor stuck again, the buck eejit.

[JamesXP]

When I've had basses that have horrid fretboards i've always cleaned them first with a toothbrush and water mixed with a tiny bit of washing up liquid.

then apply a liberal dose of lemon oil and clean up the frets with gorgomyte (miracle cloth is hte same thing pretty much too)

[crashdesk]

Cheers! DIY bolt hunt is on tomorrow :-)

I have seen old Precision screws that are the exact same but they are expensive.

One thing I don't understand is how on this bass, http://www.eddievegas.com/store/photopop3.php?image_filename=a5e82988728acdd3246096c99ddbe883_huge.jpg the pickup sits less prouder than mine. There is nothing within the body for the screws to screw in to. The only thing stopping the pickup from the scratch plate is the bits if plastic with screw holes either side of the pick cover.

Edited February 9, 2014 by crashdesk

[MiltyG565]

[quote name='crashdesk' timestamp='1391971792' post='2363160']
Cheers! DIY bolt hunt is on tomorrow :-)

I have seen old Precision screws that are the exact same but they are expensive.

One thing I don't understand is how on this bass, [url="http://www.eddievegas.com/store/photopop3.php?image_filename=a5e82988728acdd3246096c99ddbe883_huge.jpg"]http://www.eddievega...dbe883_huge.jpg[/url] the pickup sits less prouder than mine. There is nothing within the body for the screws to screw in to. The only thing stopping the pickup from the scratch plate is the bits if plastic with screw holes either side of the pick cover.
[/quote]

The screws don't screw into the body, just the pickup. They usually have a little spring between the pickup and the scratchplate to provide the pressure to stop it from wobbling about. Anyway - it's not like a jazz bass or p bass pickup, where it screws down into the wood, but more like a Stratocaster pickup, where it just screws into the pickup. Does that help?

[crashdesk]

Hi Milty. Sort of.

The thing is the pressure of the springs pushes the pickup/cover out towards the strings. This means that the plastic 'wings' which the screws go through are the only thing keeping the pickup from coming out. Because there is no thread in the plastic wings and there is no way to screw it into the bass, it just wobbles about. Probably not explaining it too well. It's one of those things that you need to see .

The way it is at the moment, I would have to put something between the underside if the scratch plate and topside of the pickup wings to make the pickup/cover sit less proud of the scratch plate.