Re-stringing..

[JuliusGroove]

Just a quick question..

Is it better to cut bass strings down when replacing them or wrap them lots? Or does it make bugger all difference?

[Myke]

I normally cut them a just over a fingers length away from the tuning pegs but only after bending the string 90degrees.

I'm not sure how much difference it makes but if the strings are really long you may run out of room on the peg.

[Thunderbird]

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1393363259' post='2379442']
I normally cut them a just over a fingers length away from the tuning pegs but only after bending the string 90degrees.

I'm not sure how much difference it makes but if the strings are really long you may run out of room on the peg.
[/quote] +1 same here

[Roland Rock]

I just tuck the end into the centre and then do as many winds as it takes, ensuring that the string exits at the bottom of the post (no overlaps)
I think I've read on BC that this is heresy and all sorts of things will go wrong, but it's always worked for me with very stable tuning.

Edited February 25, 2014 by Roland Rock

[HowieBass]

You want about three wraps of string around the tuning peg and on a headstock like a Fender that works out to be a length of string beyond the peg that's equivalent to about the distance between three pegs. The string should coil downwards around the peg as you wind; make sure you don't wrap a string over itself as you wind.

[icastle]

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1393363259' post='2379442']
I normally cut them a just over a fingers length away from the tuning pegs but only after bending the string 90degrees.
[/quote]

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1393363940' post='2379458']
You want about three wraps of string around the tuning peg and on a headstock like a Fender that works out to be a length of string beyond the peg that's equivalent to about the distance between three pegs. The string should coil downwards around the peg as you wind; make sure you don't wrap a string over itself as you wind.
[/quote]

^ These.

[Turk]

http://youtu.be/hJ-uXjEIz-A

[tom1946]

Does anyone use a string winder? if so which?

[Thunderbird]

[quote name='tom1946' timestamp='1393396444' post='2379662']
Does anyone use a string winder? if so which?
[/quote] I use this and have done for a while it is a great little tool but for some reason when I set up a bass I like to wind the strings on slowly by hand just to feel how they go on the tuners

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Planet-Waves-Pro-Winder-String-Winder/dp/B0002GJ3BO

[CamdenRob]

I leave about 4 inches past the tuner then tuck the end in and wrap.

I used to just tuck the end in and wind the entire string but I'm sure this lead to me shattering the B string tuner on my old Status, not sure if the tension is too great on the tuner or something? Although that may well be a load of crap, my scientific knowledge is limited to water boils when it gets hot.

Edited February 26, 2014 by CamdenRob

[Lozz196]

The luthier I use told me two wraps around the tuning peg is what he recommends, which equates to four inches longer than the tuning peg on my Precision.

[mep]

Another for cutting them down so I get at least 3 wraps around the tuning peg.

[Emanew]

Here what taught me my luthier : there must an real angle so you need to make rounds. Each string almost touchs the machine heads.
I found this picture with a guitar.

Edited February 26, 2014 by Emanew

[hamfist]

[quote name='Emanew' timestamp='1393457429' post='2380685']
Here what taught me my luthier : there must an real angle so you need to make rounds. Each string almost touchs the machine heads.
I found this picture with a guitar.

[/quote]

Absolutely yes, on typical Fender J and P headstocks, this'll get much more punch out of your E (and maybe even A) strings.
On any string that goes under any sort of string retainer before reaching the nut, this would be irrelevant of course, as the string retainer would govern the string break angle at the nut.

[BassTractor]

But... but... how long is that string angle exactly?

[chris_b]

I cut the strings at about 4 1/2 inches (12 cm).

I get a neat 3 winds.

Edited February 27, 2014 by chris_b

[CamdenRob]

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1393399263' post='2379681']
I leave about 4 inches past the tuner...
[/quote]

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1393538465' post='2381770']
I cut the strings at about 4 1/2 inches
[/quote]

I've always been half an inch too short....

[Conan]

I do if I can be arsed, and there is a pair of wirecutters handy... if not, I just wind them round until i can't do so any more!

Making sure, of course, that the last wind is down at the bottom of the "capstan" thing, thus maximising string break angle. But does it really make [b][i]that[/i][/b] much difference?

On my Status all of this is irrelevant of course, and it takes about three minutes to change an entire set!

[BigRedX]

Ideally you need about 2 winds around the machine head post which is just enough to stop the string from slipping - thats about 8-9 cm of extra string on a standard bass machine head (including the bit that goes down the hole in the middle). The less unnecessary string length you have wrapped around the machine head post the quicker the tuning on your bass stabilises.

However some headstocks are badly designed and require you to wind lots of extra string around the posts in order to get a decent break angle.

[TolerancEJ]

Some have already referenced, and I agree with at least 3 wraps around each tuning peg post. Wrap ends toward the bottom, so you have more downward pressure on the nut.

[gsgbass]

When I restring my Fender basses, the E measures to just above the D tuner post. The A to just above the G tuner post. The D to just above the top of the head. And because I string through the body, the G is a proper fit untrimmed. By using my restringing lengths, I get a good two wraps, plus a little extra around the tuning post. I don't use a winder.

[Norris]

I cut them to give at least two winds around the post - probably about 3" to 4" past the post. Then put a 90 degree bend in about 1/2" from the end. Finally tuck the bent end of the string into the centre hole and wind on to maximise the break angle i.e. press the string against the head as you wind so that each turn is below the previous one, like in Emanew's picture.