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rickenbacker 4003 neck problem


alberobello
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Hi guys,

It is my second post so far, so please don't go hard on me if I do something silly.

I have a 99' rickenbacker 4003 and until now I have been adjusting the truss rods by myself when it was needed thanks to some web sources like joey's bass notes.

However this time I have a problem that I think I am not able to solve by myself. There is something like a small 'bump' between 5th and 7th frets under E string, that causes problems while I am playing on e and a strings. There is no problem with d and g strings tough. However I am not able to lower strings they seem so high now.

The main problem is that I don't know any luthier here in Istanbul that I can trust enough to leave my guitar.

I didn't want to ruin everything by doing something wrong, so the only thing I tried was changing the strings with lighter ones, I don't know if it was the right action to be taken, but I had rotosound strings with I guess the gauge of .110 on E, now I have d'addario cb80 that has a gauge of .095 in order to reduce the tension on the neck.

So now, I'd really appreciate your comments about solving this problem.

Thanks a lot!

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[quote name='alberobello' timestamp='1395587163' post='2403979']
Hi guys,

It is my second post so far, so please don't go hard on me if I do something silly.

I have a 99' rickenbacker 4003 and until now I have been adjusting the truss rods by myself when it was needed thanks to some web sources like joey's bass notes.

However this time I have a problem that I think I am not able to solve by myself. There is something like a small 'bump' between 5th and 7th frets under E string, that causes problems while I am playing on e and a strings. There is no problem with d and g strings tough. However I am not able to lower strings they seem so high now.

The main problem is that I don't know any luthier here in Istanbul that I can trust enough to leave my guitar.

I didn't want to ruin everything by doing something wrong, so the only thing I tried was changing the strings with lighter ones, I don't know if it was the right action to be taken, but I had rotosound strings with I guess the gauge of .110 on E, now I have d'addario cb80 that has a gauge of .095 in order to reduce the tension on the neck.

So now, I'd really appreciate your comments about solving this problem.

Thanks a lot!
[/quote]

Go to the Rick Resource Forum. They're your best bet.

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ONLY if taking it to a professional is not an option...
It sounds to me like it needs some more 'relief' on the bass side of the neck. Have you tried SLACKENING this truss rod to try and remove the forward bow? You may then need to lower the action again. I would have thought that going to a lighter gauge string would increase the problem.

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[quote name='markorbit' timestamp='1395618597' post='2404510']
ONLY if taking it to a professional is not an option...
It sounds to me like it needs some more 'relief' on the bass side of the neck. Have you tried SLACKENING this truss rod to try and remove the forward bow? You may then need to lower the action again. I would have thought that going to a lighter gauge string would increase the problem.
[/quote] Hi, yes I tried it , it didn't work really.

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[quote name='4000' timestamp='1395748836' post='2405704'] Give them time, sometimes it can take a while. You could alway bump your message to make sure it's seen. [/quote]

Hi, yes they helped me about it, thanks a lot!

I followed their suggestion, I loosened the string tension and both truss rods, now I am waiting for some time to start from scratch until I will eliminate the forward bow on the neck. I hope It will work.

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[color=#000000][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Still I am unable to solve my problem.. I tried to capture some pictures of my bass below, maybe it'll help you to diagnose the problem. I removed all the tension from the neck, I took the strings off and opened the nuts of truss rods and the guitar waited like this for 3 days. I wrote G to some pictures to indicate that the picture is taken from the G side.[/font][/color]

[color=#000000][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]I really appreciate any suggestion and help![/font][/color]

[url="http://i.hizliresim.com/ea4qQg.jpg"]http://i.hizliresim.com/ea4qQg.jpg[/url]
[url="http://i.hizliresim.com/xY1PLE.jpg"]http://i.hizliresim.com/xY1PLE.jpg[/url]
[url="http://i.hizliresim.com/x8GnvW.jpg"]http://i.hizliresim.com/x8GnvW.jpg[/url]
[url="http://i.hizliresim.com/KDLXbm.jpg"]http://i.hizliresim.com/KDLXbm.jpg[/url]
[url="http://i.hizliresim.com/emVlyZ.jpg"]http://i.hizliresim.com/emVlyZ.jpg[/url]
[url="http://i.hizliresim.com/xE7ldB.jpg"]http://i.hizliresim.com/xE7ldB.jpg[/url]
[url="http://i.hizliresim.com/wjEJOD.jpg"]http://i.hizliresim.com/wjEJOD.jpg[/url]

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Definitely a twist. In theory I gather you've altered the two truss rods separately, when really what you do to one you should do to the other too. It's all about minuscule adjustments with a bass with two truss rods else they will counteract each other and so much can go wrong.

From my experience that bump looks like maybe in one place the truss rod has been tightened so much on the bass side it has probably hit the fingerboard and unfortunately most likely also will have twisted the neck.

My suggestions:

Get a good heavy string gauge, but leave them slack, take off all the tension from the truss rod on the bass side then tune the bass side strings (E & A) to say Eb to look where you're at. Adjust by tightening little by little over a week or two and keep checking where you're at with a straight edge and by sighting the neck. Leave the strings slack only tune them to check how the action is and if it looks like it's moved at all.

DO NOT leave tension on the D and G strings as this will pull the treble side and make the twist worse.

The neck is hard rock maple, if it is twisted it's gonna be a bitch to get out, so it may be worth looking into a tension jig to see if that may help.

As a last LAST LAST resort there's always the case of slackening both truss rods completely and slowly tightening them over a few weeks working with a straight edge each time.

Hope this helps

Edited by JazzBassfreak
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[quote name='JazzBassfreak' timestamp='1396944115' post='2418887']
Definitely a twist. In theory I gather you've altered the two truss rods separately, when really what you do to one you should do to the other too. It's all about minuscule adjustments with a bass with two truss rods else they will counteract each other and so much can go wrong.

From my experience that bump looks like maybe in one place the truss rod has been tightened so much on the bass side it has probably hit the fingerboard and unfortunately most likely also will have twisted the neck.

My suggestions:

Get a good heavy string gauge, but leave them slack, take off all the tension from the truss rod on the bass side then tune the bass side strings (E & A) to say Eb to look where you're at. Adjust by tightening little by little over a week or two and keep checking where you're at with a straight edge and by sighting the neck. Leave the strings slack only tune them to check how the action is and if it looks like it's moved at all.

DO NOT leave tension on the D and G strings as this will pull the treble side and make the twist worse.

The neck is hard rock maple, if it is twisted it's gonna be a bitch to get out, so it may be worth looking into a tension jig to see if that may help.

As a last LAST LAST resort there's always the case of slackening both truss rods completely and slowly tightening them over a few weeks working with a straight edge each time.

Hope this helps
[/quote]

Good answer!
Definitely looks like a twist from those photos
I'd take note of JazzBassFreak's advice

Also, I was once told by a luthier,
that sometimes it's good practice to allow the trussrod(s) to "settle"
i.e. Don't attempt to over-adjust them all in one go

Allow a bit of time between adjustments
I think he mentioned a half turn every few hours.....

Make sure to let us know how you get on
but most of all - good luck

Marc

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Despite some very good advice above, having looked at the photos, if that were my bass and I lived in an area without appropriately skilled luthiers, it would be on its way via a large cardboard box and a plane to someone who knows what they're doing. I've seen a couple of disasters resulting from people trying to 'tweak' their own Fender necks, and Fender necks/rods are far more user friendly than is the case with Rics. This isn't a minor problem, unlike a Fender with a f**ked neck, a Ric with a f**ked neck is a f**ked bass.

Edited by Beedster
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[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1396947183' post='2418912']
Despite some very good advice above, having looked at the photos, if that were my bass and I lived in an area without appropriately skilled luthiers, it would be on its way via a large cardboard box and a plane to someone who knows what they're doing. I've seen a couple of disasters resulting from people trying to 'tweak' their own Fender necks, and Fender necks/rods are far more user friendly than is the case with Rics. This isn't a minor problem, unlike a Fender with a f**ked neck, a Ric with a f**ked neck is a f**ked bass.
[/quote]

True. But he'd have to send it a long way. Plus it's something that could make the situation a whole lot worse by running the risk of the neck breaking in shipping, plus the humidity change will make the whole twist a lot worse and could potentially crack the finish.

Edited by JazzBassfreak
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[quote name='JazzBassfreak' timestamp='1396948978' post='2418934']
True. But he'd have to send it a long way. Plus it's something that could make the situation a whole lot worse by running the risk of the neck breaking in shipping, plus the humidity change will make the whole twist a lot worse and could potentially crack the finish.
[/quote]

True, but I'd take those risks over the alternative.

Edited by Beedster
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[quote name='waldflote8' timestamp='1396527466' post='2414640']
Hi, I would confirm by using a straight edge, but you may have some uneven bowing (twist),

Do you have a picture of the neck directly from above with the strings on ?
[/quote] I don't know if the pictures are taken from right angles, but I hope it'll help more. Let me know If I can take better ones.

http://i.hizliresim.com/lYz7Vk.jpg
http://i.hizliresim.com/VpyVbV.jpg
http://i.hizliresim.com/nPG7Bg.jpg
http://i.hizliresim.com/1PnyXD.jpg
http://i.hizliresim.com/LPoaL1.png

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[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1396945183' post='2418893']
Good answer!
Definitely looks like a twist from those photos
I'd take note of JazzBassFreak's advice

Also, I was once told by a luthier,
that sometimes it's good practice to allow the trussrod(s) to "settle"
i.e. Don't attempt to over-adjust them all in one go

Allow a bit of time between adjustments
I think he mentioned a half turn every few hours.....

Make sure to let us know how you get on
but most of all - good luck

Marc
[/quote]Thanks.. But I guess I've already reached to the boundries of my experience.. I do not want to do something wrong unless it is something easy and won't break anything. I already tried adjusting truss rods slowly (I waited at least 10 hours before I did another tiny adjustment!) But seems like it didn't help at all

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[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1396951376' post='2418968']
True, but I'd take those risks over the alternative.
[/quote]
Thanks for the advise. If I go personally for sure I'd carry it with me but I am not sure about sending it somewhere far..I received many times destroyed boxes from abroad even tough there were fragile signs on them.

Before the ric I owned a fender precision and there are many luthiers around that are really good in their job. However rickenbacker users always suggest not to go a luthier unless s/he is really experienced on rics. I am not aware of 'mechanical' differences between a ric and fender, just the thing I know is that it was way easier to adjust the neck on my fender. What would you say about it? A good luthier on fenders vs. sending it abroad? Thanks!

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[quote name='alberobello' timestamp='1397142454' post='2421112']

Thanks for the advise. If I go personally for sure I'd carry it with me but I am not sure about sending it somewhere far..I received many times destroyed boxes from abroad even tough there were fragile signs on them.

Before the ric I owned a fender precision and there are many luthiers around that are really good in their job. However rickenbacker users always suggest not to go a luthier unless s/he is really experienced on rics. I am not aware of 'mechanical' differences between a ric and fender, just the thing I know is that it was way easier to adjust the neck on my fender. What would you say about it? A good luthier on fenders vs. sending it abroad? Thanks!
[/quote]

As I know from my tech experience over the years, Fender basses are hella easy to adjust compared to Rics. Mate if I were you I'd ignore the guy telling you to send it away. Are you really willing to let some random courier take "extra special care" of a bass that cost over £1000/$? Usually the boxes marked fragile get thrown around the most. I know this as fact.

You know what you want to see from your bass, a straighter neck, lower action, and no twist. Please, just take my advice, go little by little adjust every few days and refer to my long post. It is possible to get a twist out of a Ric, (hence the two truss rods). If you need guidance/advice, inbox me.

Happy to help.
JBF

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[quote name='alberobello' timestamp='1397141726' post='2421103']
Thanks.. But I guess I've already reached to the boundries of my experience.. I do not want to do something wrong unless it is something easy and won't break anything. I already tried adjusting truss rods slowly (I waited at least 10 hours before I did another tiny adjustment!) But seems like it didn't help at all
[/quote]

10 hours is no good mate. Your Rics neck is 3 piece ROCK maple. Won't budge for at least two days without string tension. Go in 1/4 turns each truss rod with a straight edge like I advised, keep track of the height of the bass side compared to the treble with and without string tension. If all else fails, slack them both off, leave for at least three days fully slacked, with no string tension then start over. That would be the best option. If you take it to a luthier all they will want to do is peel the fretboard off and plane the neck.

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  • 7 years later...

Get yourself a Rickenbacker bass notched straight edge and a set of feeler gauges, put the neck straight then put a 1 to 1.5mm relief in the neck, that should cure your problem.

Take your time with it and go easy, I got mine from Solo guitars in Toronto as they ship internationally, this is an invaluable tool for Rick owners.SL-LSRKNS-10-main2.thumb.jpg.e678632bc66308d1e4c727ae2b6c4ba5.jpg

Edited by andrea mason
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