Clarky72 Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Hi I've acquired an old Fender Jazz body that I'm going to build back into a working bass again. It has 5 holes drilled at the moment for the bridge mount, and as close as I can measure I believe the distance between the holes is 17.5mm. Does anyone know what the drill hole spacing is on a 3 hole bridge as I'm exploring my options of what bridges I can fit. I like the idea of the Gotoh 201 in principle but have read that the thick baseplate adds height to the strings that is awkward to get a low action on. If I can fit a 3 hole bridge to the body my options would be opened up considerably. The two outer holes of the 3 hole pattern look as if they fall just inside the location of the 2 outers on the 5 hole pattern, but I'm thinking if they're too close the wood could be come unstable between the 2 drills. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikay Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 As well as the other usual suspect (Badass) the Babicz full contact bridge and Hipshot A style (no through string version) will also fit a standard 5 hole mount. The Hipshot only has three screws but these match the outer and centre hole of the 5 screw mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I can't help with the 3 hole spacing info but have you considered a five screw hole Gotoh 203? http://www.g-gotoh.com/international/?btp_product=203b-4 I'm actually considering putting a slightly chunkier bridge on my Squier VM Precision as the current bridge doesn't have the channels for the height adjustment screws to run in and this doesn't look bad at all for the money http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271416410618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubsonicSimpleton Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 If you want to fit a bridge with different hole centers, you can fill the original holes by drilling out the screw threads and then glueing in hardwood dowels before drilling the new holes. Before you do anything, get your neck sorted - you really need to be able to measure how high above the body surface it will sit, and account for the radius of the fingerboard and height of the frets in order to take meaningful measurements. Take a look at your budget, work out how much you want to spend - you can pick up a vintage repro 5 hole bridge from wilkinson that will get the job done for about a tenner on fleabay anytime, from there it gets more expensive and depends very much on your own skills/free time/budget and how picky you want to be about finish - the more you deviate from the original fender recipe the higher the time/money cost is likely to get. Maybe bargain to be had on this (but doubt that the seller will let it go for a quid) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-High-Mass-Vintage-HMV-bass-guitar-bridge/121302746433 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky72 Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Ah thanks guys. This has really helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iiipopes Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 [quote name='SubsonicSimpleton' timestamp='1395765707' post='2405999'] If you want to fit a bridge with different hole centers, you can fill the original holes by drilling out the screw threads and then glueing in hardwood dowels before drilling the new holes. Before you do anything, get your neck sorted - you really need to be able to measure how high above the body surface it will sit, and account for the radius of the fingerboard and height of the frets in order to take meaningful measurements. Take a look at your budget, work out how much you want to spend - you can pick up a vintage repro 5 hole bridge from wilkinson that will get the job done for about a tenner on fleabay anytime, from there it gets more expensive and depends very much on your own skills/free time/budget and how picky you want to be about finish - the more you deviate from the original fender recipe the higher the time/money cost is likely to get. Maybe bargain to be had on this (but doubt that the seller will let it go for a quid) [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-High-Mass-Vintage-HMV-bass-guitar-bridge/121302746433"]http://www.ebay.co.u...ge/121302746433[/url] [/quote] +1. Keep a 5-hold bridge with the same spacing on it. It will hold better for tone and sustain. Almost 40 years ago Guitar Player magazine (before Bass Player magazine was a spin-off) did a bass bridge "shootout" with brass, steel, aluminum, etc. At the end of the day, the clearest tone and best sustain was the old vintage bridge. Nothing new in the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I have tried a few bridges but always end up going back to the good old BBOT it does what it should and you can adjust it easily and also it does not cost the earth I am currently using Wilkinson "BBOT" bridges on 2 basses and cannot fault them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Telebass Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 [quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1395850767' post='2407153'] I have tried a few bridges but always end up going back to the good old BBOT it does what it should and you can adjust it easily and also it does not cost the earth I am currently using Wilkinson "BBOT" bridges on 2 basses and cannot fault them [/quote] This. Other bridges are available! But BBOTs are simplest and best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky72 Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 You know what... I might just stick with the BBOT, Leo put it there for a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean-Luc Pickguard Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 if a bridge's a thicker baseplate affects the action, shimming the neck will enable you to correct that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 [quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1395909562' post='2407746'] You know what... I might just stick with the BBOT, Leo put it there for a reason. [/quote] But, Fender themselves are currently employing several different bridge designs on current instruments; some have the 'traditional' BBOT, some have a slightly uprated BBOT (with channels for the saddle height adjustment screws to run in), some have the new Fender high-mass bridge, some carry the Badass II, some instruments carry the Babicz bridge... so I suspect it's often to do with appearance as much as function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky72 Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 I haven't seen a BBOT with channels, what bass is that one on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubsonicSimpleton Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Squier classic vibe Ps and Js have a BBOT with grooves in the baseplate. The BBOT with grooves is a pretty old concept, and lots of budget non-fenders with fender string spacing have these type of bridges also (but without the fancy brass saddles - I'd guess chrome plated steel). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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