Dazed Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Serious question.... I have a bass that I really like but hate the headstock design. Is it practical to chop it orff?' I realise it'll need new hardware. But wonder about the truss rod , neck strength and stability once done. Are headless basses designed or built differently to account for these issues in the first place or not? Th bass in question is a set neck or possibly neck through but can't tell due to the the construction. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamdenRob Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Having seen photos of the neck being constructed on my incoming letts custom, it looked like the headstock was a separate piece of wood to the neck... although I may be mistaken.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 String anchor makes no difference to neck truss rod, it sees the same tension regardless of which end of the string the tension is adjusted from. If a separate piece of wood the density may make a bit of difference, but can't see it making that much difference. The sound and harmonics happen between the saddles and nut, not between nut and tuners. It will change the balance of course, and be dependent on how well you anchor both ends, but if done well it should not change the tone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 This urge is still within me screaming to get out. Anyone actually done this successfully? Let's see some before and after shots please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 In response to your first post Dazed: It depends on the neck. If the bass has a truss rod (e.g. along the lines of a fender "bullet" truss rod) or reinforcing rods like carbon fibre, aluminium, steel, or titanium . . . It could get complicated. If you have an X:Ray machine . . . use it! If you're like 99.9% of us and don't have one, do your homework. If the truss rod adjusts from the heel - it's difficult to say exactly where it ends. it's usually at or before the nut. reinforcing bars and rods tend to end there too - but there are probably a few exceptions. As far as tension is concerned - the neck should be as strong provided the headless hardware is up to the job, and is fitted properly. In response to your second post Dazed: A few people on here have tried at one point or another: Check out post #15 on this thread for a recently posted example: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/277945-headless-body-less-basses/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/277945-headless-body-less-basses/[/url] Seems to work a treat! Personally I'd reshape the headstock (make it small like an SR series Ibanez by filling existing holes, then reshaping, drilling and fitting lightweight tuners). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) Can you post pics of the bass? The type of headstock makes a difference (angled or flat), as does the nut type (in a slot or at end of headstock) but you certainly don't need to use an X Ray machine....a magnet will work just as well for locating the truss rod ! It won't pick up carbon fiber, but they don't usually run that far up and are unusual unless it's a high end bass. You should be able to get a pretty good idea of where the truss rod is by looking in the recces if it's at the headstock. As mentioned above, the body will also most likely need routing for to accommodate the bridge, unless you have some kind of unusual bridge in mind. Edited February 3, 2016 by Manton Customs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hubrad Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 I did it, most successfully indeed! I did spend [u]alot[/u] of time first checking as suggested above that there was enough clear wood. Here's my story.. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/44673-ibanez-roadster-megacustom/ Dazed, I see you're over round Manchester.. I'm in W.Yorks, work at Cleckheaton, only 1 mile from M62 Jn.26 if you fancy a look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Never thought of a magnet - The X:Ray machine was a bit of a long shot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 [quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1454517331' post='2970433'] Never thought of a magnet - The X:Ray machine was a bit of a long shot! [/quote] Damn! And I'd just negotiated the loan for 20mins of the local hospital's MRI scanner! Still, saves on the cost of a box of chocolates for the radiography team, I suppose... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 I had Andyjr1515(above) remodel the headstock of one of my basses - plenty of correspondence meant that we found a design we were both happy with - he did a fantastic job - I would thoroughy recommend his work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikki_Sixx Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 [quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1454517329' post='2970432'] Dazed, I see you're over round Manchester.. I'm in W.Yorks, work at Cleckheaton, only 1 mile from M62 Jn.26 if you fancy a look at it. [/quote] Crikey, I grew up in Cleckheaton! Was there just a few days ago in fact. Didn't expect to see a mention of it here, haha. Bought my first bass there at Music Room, which I think moved to a much bigger premises a few years back - though I haven't been in the new shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hubrad Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 [quote name='Rikki_Sixx' timestamp='1454584433' post='2970988'] Crikey, I grew up in Cleckheaton! Was there just a few days ago in fact. Didn't expect to see a mention of it here, haha. Bought my first bass there at Music Room, which I think moved to a much bigger premises a few years back - though I haven't been in the new shop. [/quote] The very place where I work! I hope that first bass was decent for you, as it could well have been me that sold it to you.. We've been in the 'new' place over 10 years now, bottom corner of the car park by the doctors'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Thanks for all of the replies and advice! Magnets I think I have, I can't remember where I left my X Ray machine though. The bass that originally spawned this thread has now gone to a safer home. Which means that any cheap 6 strings for sale could be in for a shock. My main criteria now is a good wide neck capable of 19mmish bridge spacing, that can cope happily with losing its head. Would a neck through or bolt on be better one way or another? Or no different in terms of this experiment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 To Hubrad: thanks for the link and offer. That turned out very nicely indeed. If I'm over that way I'll try and check it out. To Manton Customs: I think all the potential victims, sorry basses, I've considered have angled headstocks. Some dual truss rods. If the nut is in a slot could I replace it with a zero fret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 To Plunger Moderno: One of the possible basses has a carbon support but I can't tell where it ends. Some have the truss access at the heel and some at the pointy end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 [quote name='Dazed' timestamp='1454602386' post='2971266'] To Manton Customs: I think all the potential victims, sorry basses, I've considered have angled headstocks. Some dual truss rods. If the nut is in a slot could I replace it with a zero fret? [/quote] Yes, a nut slot may well be preferable as it has more distance above the nut. If this were the case you'd need to fill the nut slot (with wood) and install a zero fret at the front edge of the nut. An angled headstock will -9/10 times have the nut at the end of the fingerboard making things a little more complicated leaving less room or more carving for the anchor or zero fret at the head (stump!?). Whatever bass you chose, it would be a good idea to see it in person before buying and visualise where it would be cut, where the truss rod ends and if there is room for the necessary hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Okay so a broad neck doesn't seem to be the most common feature at the cheaper end of available 6 stringers. I'm after something size wise like a yamaha trb 6 which is far too good and costly for my hack job intentions. Current contender is a Heartfield DR 6C from the start of the 90's. It has an interesting tri laminated neck, unusual in that one of the laminations is a graphite sheet that runs under the Rosewood fingerboard. It doesn't seem to be there to stop neck flex as is normal for graphite but to help eliminate dead spots. I believe the later ones have a dual truss rod but I haven't found one of those yet. They were only produced between 89 and 92. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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