Ampeg SVT 3 Pro users...honest opinions

[Jonesy64]

Hey guys,

I was close to pulling the trigger on a 7 Pro this week but the nagging doubts about its reliability record has stopped me from doing so. It hasn't helped that my nearest shop with one in its inventory so far seems incapable of getting one transferred from another branch...although after coming off the phone to them again this afternoon it now appears to have disappeared altogether!

I am now seriously looking at the 3 Pro but the one consistent complaint appears to be that it is underpowered.

I play in a 77-80's punk band doing the usual pubs/clubs along with the very occasional outdoor local festival.
Cab is a Schroeder 410BMF. Rated at 1200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms.

Is the 3 Pro really that underpowered?

Another question I have related to volume is how soon does it get dirty? I don't want totally clean but at pub gig volume levels I would only want a small amount of edge to my clean tone.

I am trying to get to try one out but work and the possibility of the local shop actually getting one in means this could be another week or two away.

Really interested to hear any 3 Pro users thoughts on how it performs.

Cheers.....

[Lozz196]

I had one, not for very long - my band split so I sold my gear - and I liked it. I had it connected to an Ampeg SVT210 & 410. Not dramatically underpowered but nowhere near as loud as any of the micro-amps of 500 watts that I`ve had since. That said, I only use them on 3, 4 max, and that may be their limit as we all know that volume controls aren`t always set evenly.

Great sound though, not much break-up, just that great Ampeg sound. Having also had a PF500 my thoughts are that both sound very similar, so in that case I`d probably check out the PF800 as it hasn`t had many reported issues like the 500, and it`s probably a fair bit lighter than the 3-PRO, plus more powerful.

[thodrik]

I played one and liked it. I did have to put the master up more than expected, but if you have a big/oud enough cab, say the Ampeg 6x10 then it will do fine.

[Spoombung]

I played through one at a gig recently. Great sound - clean and clear. Loads and loads of volume - but then I'm old school and have been playing through 100watt amps for 35 years and think they're plenty loud enough.

[moonbass]

I've recently purchased an SVT3 after using a GB Streamliner 900. I never got past around 9 o'clock on the Streamliner's master, but I'm having to but the Ampeg to around 12 o'clock for the equivalent volume (I'm using Bergantino 1x12 cabs). I reckon it's fine for pubs and small halls, and could probably do more with an 8x10. I find the punch is much better than the class D heads. It's hard to define, but it just feels more oldschool; like the sound is hitting you rather than washing over you.

The valve drive is very different from the rather fizzy Streamliner. Mine doesn't seem to do proper dirt but does that wonderful Ampeg 'clank'. The tone is just right out the box. No faffing around. Seems to pair better with passive than active basses, but that might just be my ears.

It seems to be a good compromise of weight to power. Certainly if Class Ds are not your thing, it's about as heavy as you'd want to go without a trolley/roadie/chiropractor.
A

[Prime_BASS]

I used it for a barefaced compact, I had to crank the master to get the volume that some other micro heads are capable of. Sound nice I'd admit
The 7 pro, is smaller and lighter but again compared to some of the 500w heads that are still smaller and lighter it never felt like 1000watts. And again the 500w micro heads are smaller, capable of bigger sound and IMO sound nicer.

The only ampeg Pro variant I've liked is the 2, but it's a 2 man job just getting it to the car.

Lots of other micro heads that are better at the job than ampeg.

[JapanAxe]

I've just (2 days ago) got a used SVT 3 Pro to use with a BF Compact or Compact/Midget setup. I will record my thoughts elsewhere, but my top advice would be to [b]buy used[/b]. A new one (far East manufactured) will cost you about £1,000, whereas used they go for £350-£450 here and on eBay, and many of those available are USA-made (fwiw).

Yes you need to turn the master up high to get the full beans, but you can add more volume by using the graphic's volume control.

One issue to be aware of is that the bias of the output transistors can drift, resulting in loss of power and/or crossover distortion. Setting the bias requires a tech with the right gear - if you just get in there and twiddle the trimpot you can fry all 8 MOSFETS in seconds. Ampeg have fitted a cheapo trimpot, so you may want to budget for getting a multi-turn trim fitted.

There are a couple of threads on TalkBass about this - just put the following into Google: [b]site:talkbass.com svt 3 pro bias[/b]

Having studied the schematics of both the SVT 3 Pro and the Streamliner 900 (which I also own), the overall concept of the preamp is very similar:
1st valve - buffer stage
2nd valve - passive treble/bass
3rd valve - active mids with selectable centre frequency

I suggest you also look into the Genz Benz Streamliners. Although they lack the extra tone-shaping gizmos of the Ampeg pre, they are currently excellent value if there are any left (600 @ £399, 900 @ £499), light, loud, and compact.

[Jonesy64]

Thanks for the input guys,

MoonBass' description is exactly what I hope to get from it and I think my 4x10 should be a good match up

I had to make a decision earlier before I had read JapanAxe's comments and I have bought a heavily discounted 3Pro (last one in stock and running down their Ampeg line) I can return it within 14 days if I'm not satisfied with it so pretty happy with that especially if it does turn out to be what I was hoping for.

Thanks also for the heads up on the Mosfets bias drifting.

If this doesn't work out I'll def look into the GB Streamliners, they have a lot of satisfied owners!! Can a Streamliner do the Ampeg tone?

[JapanAxe]

[quote name='Jonesy64' timestamp='1397824324' post='2427704']
Can a Streamliner do the Ampeg tone?
[/quote]

I'm more interested to find out whether an Ampeg can do the Streamliner tone!

[moonbass]

I'd say they're just two very different beasts. Both do valve tones, but with completely different vibes. I personally found the MarkBass TTE 500 much closer to an Ampeg tone than the Streamliner. The Ampeg has got pretty comprehensive tone shaping, so for money has greater variability. I find the Streamliner always sounds like a Streamliner.

[JapanAxe]

[quote name='moonbass' timestamp='1397838446' post='2427853']
I'd say they're just two very different beasts. Both do valve tones, but with completely different vibes. I personally found the MarkBass TTE 500 much closer to an Ampeg tone than the Streamliner. The Ampeg has got pretty comprehensive tone shaping, so for money has greater variability. I find the Streamliner always sounds like a Streamliner.
[/quote]
I can certainly confirm that the SVT 3 Pro has greater tone-shaping capabilities than the Streamliner. If you like the SL's core tone (which I do), then that is not a problem. It's too early for me to comment further on the 3 Pro in this thread, but generally I found the downside to lots of tone controls is 'option anxiety' - which control do I need to twiddle!?

[Prime_BASS]

Despite the volume thing it does sound very nice and it made me contemplate the 7 pro.
It is loud enough but for me I like the knowledge if available headroom even if it's not needed.

[Guest]

Having owned the 3 and currently enjoying the 7.......
If they were both placed on a table in front of me and i had a pick, I'd go for the 7.

[Handwired]

It's a common misconception that SVT 3 Pro's are under powered, the're not! the problem is the added graphic, there's additional headroom built in so you can switch it in so a boost is available, to use it like a conventional amp and get full power, switch in the graphic, move all the sliders fully up and eq as normal with the rotary controls.

[JapanAxe]

[quote name='Handwired' timestamp='1397995024' post='2429282']
It's a common misconception that SVT 3 Pro's are under powered, the're not! the problem is the added graphic, there's additional headroom built in so you can switch it in so a boost is available, to use it like a conventional amp and get full power, switch in the graphic, move all the sliders fully up and eq as normal with the rotary controls.
[/quote]
Even with the graphic flat there is 10dB of boost available from the level slider.

[Guest]

I wouldn't put all the sliders up per se. Max out the level one for sure, center the rotaries then use the graphic for eq. The 40hz is great for getting rid of boom on problem stages as well.

Edited April 20, 2014 by kennyrodg

[Handwired]

You would if you required the volume, moving the full eq spectrum as one is no different to adjusting volume.

[paul_5]

I've never owned one, but I've heard that the best way to get them to perform at their loudest is to max out the 'volume' knob, and use the 'gain' control to set your level.

[Jonesy64]

Thanks for the extra info' on increasing volume levels with the master dimed and through the EQ.

I'm not long back from an afternoon gig and as is the norm' my Terror Bass didn't get above 9 o'clock on the master volume and gain controls....the 3 Pro is surely going to be loud enough for my needs :-)

I am expecting delivery of it this Wednesday!!

[moonbass]

Can I get SVT3 owners thoughts on the Tube Drive control? As people say, it does run counter-intuitively in that it is supposed to be more 'tubey' turning anticlockwise, but really all mine seems to do is make the volume quieter and slightly more dull! I'm certainly not complaining, as the head sounds generally valvey anyway, but wondered if it's something wrong with my head? I've had it serviced and new valves (and biased) but it's just the same. Anybody else find it useful knob?

Also, while I'm at it, I tend to run the gain so that the peak LED comes on nearly all the time. It doesn't distort unpleasantly, in fact it sounds great, but am I damaging the head or shortening the valve lifespan by doing this?
A.

[Mudpup]

[quote name='moonbass' timestamp='1398037383' post='2429834']
Can I get SVT3 owners thoughts on the Tube Drive control? As people say, it does run counter-intuitively in that it is supposed to be more 'tubey' turning anticlockwise, but really all mine seems to do is make the volume quieter and slightly more dull! I'm certainly not complaining, as the head sounds generally valvey anyway, but wondered if it's something wrong with my head? I've had it serviced and new valves (and biased) but it's just the same. Anybody else find it useful knob?

Also, while I'm at it, I tend to run the gain so that the peak LED comes on nearly all the time. It doesn't distort unpleasantly, in fact it sounds great, but am I damaging the head or shortening the valve lifespan by doing this?
A.
[/quote]

Its less than 2 weeks old from new and you've had new valves and a service?

[Guest]

[quote name='Handwired' timestamp='1398016524' post='2429585']
You would if you required the volume, moving the full eq spectrum as one is no different to adjusting volume.
[/quote]
Granted but you'd loose the vast majority of your tone shaping controls in the process. Still, I guess you'll still have plenty of options for cutting eq rather than adding. More than one way to skin a cat comes to mind.

Re the valve drive question from Moonbass
When I had the 3 I would have the Valve drive at minimum if I was doing a Motown or Reggae type line and dial it up for a more modern type sound.
It sounds like your amp is fine.

Edited April 21, 2014 by kennyrodg

[JapanAxe]

[quote name='moonbass' timestamp='1398037383' post='2429834']
Can I get SVT3 owners thoughts on the Tube Drive control? As people say, it does run counter-intuitively in that it is supposed to be more 'tubey' turning anticlockwise, but really all mine seems to do is make the volume quieter and slightly more dull! I'm certainly not complaining, as the head sounds generally valvey anyway, but wondered if it's something wrong with my head? I've had it serviced and new valves (and biased) but it's just the same. Anybody else find it useful knob?

Also, while I'm at it, I tend to run the gain so that the peak LED comes on nearly all the time. It doesn't distort unpleasantly, in fact it sounds great, but am I damaging the head or shortening the valve lifespan by doing this?
A.
[/quote]

The 'Tube Gain' control adjusts the plate voltage of the driver valves. Fully clockwise they are getting the highest plate voltage, so you have maximum headroom. At 0 the plate voltage is at its lowest. This will make little difference at home practice levels, but as you increase the overall volume you should start to hear some compression or overdrive. My advice would be to set this control where it sounds best to you and then leave it!

Regarding the peak LED, this relates to the signal level coming out of the preamp. It's hard to see how you could do any damage by making this light up. Loads of amps are set up to intentionally overdrive preamp valves. If it sounds good, do it.

[moonbass]

Cheers all; that's reassuring! (Btw, my amps a lot older than 2 weeks old

[Jonesy64]

What are you carrying your 3 Pro's around in.....rack case, flight case, padded bag?