jonkilleen Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 I have the above as my kit. I find it great but I think it's in need of a service. I brought it 4 years ago and it was secondhand. I would like to get to serviced and the 1048H cleaned up - remove of dust and the like from the main cabinet. Does anyone know what is involved with a general service and if anyone is able to do this in the Bristol area? Any idea of cost? My kit I feel is expensive so I would like to know of capable people who know what they are doing and not leave me with usable kit afterwards. Any help is appreciated Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merton Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Have a look [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=198"]HERE[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinman Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 [quote name='jonkilleen' post='244144' date='Jul 20 2008, 11:30 PM']I have the above as my kit. I find it great but I think it's in need of a service. I brought it 4 years ago and it was secondhand. I would like to get to serviced and the 1048H cleaned up - remove of dust and the like from the main cabinet. Does anyone know what is involved with a general service and if anyone is able to do this in the Bristol area? Any idea of cost? My kit I feel is expensive so I would like to know of capable people who know what they are doing and not leave me with usable kit afterwards. Any help is appreciated Jon[/quote] Jon, I do have a beef about amp "servicing". There's been a few threads about whether they're worth it and obviously this is only my own view. If the amp seem stop be working OK you may not need to do anything other than perhaps the following for which you'd probably be charged about £70. However, if you do find something wrong then you may want to take it to an enginner for repair. 1. Gently hoover it out. A smallish, clean paintbrush might help loosen fluff if any. 2. Check any cooling fans are working. 3. A bit of Servisol may be applied to the jack sockets but, again, if they're not noisy I'd leave be. 4. Pots. If not noisy I'd leave them alone. Some people like to put a squirt of Servisol in them but some are packed with a lubricant and Servisol can wash that out. 5. Unless it's more than 10 years old not a lot else - maybe check for any corrosion or electrolytic capacitors that are leaking or bulging - get replaced at once if they are. (I'm assuming it's all solid state - if valve then you may want to contemplate some replacements which for power valve replacement is usually a techy job). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lfalex v1.1 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 I own a Trace AH300SMX, 2103H, 1153 & 1048H... Really DON'T spend ANY money on your cabinet. It's a DIY job! It's all big, chunky engineering in there, and if it's all currently working okay, there's nothing that you'd need to do to it other than check that there are no damaged components in the horn crossover and ensuring that all the drivers are still connected properly. Simply pull off the port trim rings, unscrew the grille screws, remove the grille and rubber mounts. You can now remove a driver from the front baffle and just have a Hoover out in there. I usually clean inside the bottom edge of the front face of the cabinet. It's where all the dust and gunk falls... The only point to be aware of is to take care not to damage or tear the cones or surrounds of the drivers. The drivers aren't usually soldered to the cables, just tagged & crimped, so they're easy to remove completely should you so desire. Prepare to be surprised at how naff the internal cables are! As for the AH300SM, it's as others have said. Unscrew the 4 bolts under the plastic plugs in the top of the carcass, withdraw the bolts/washers, and the amp will slide out of its box. The 300SM's not got a valve in the input stage, has it? If it does, they can go from time to time, but are a doddle to source/replace. It's only a 12ax7 / EC833. The biggest flaw in the design that I know of is due to the fact that the amps are modular inside (as you will see) Basically, there's a Transformer / power supply for the other boards, a pre-amp board, a Power amp module, a board for the various rear sockets, plus one at the front that carries the EQ sliders, compressor and other controls (plus the green illumination). The weak point seems to be in the cabling between the pre and power stages. Again, they're only spade connectors, and these can work loose over time. Just make sure they're all snug! Otherwise, Hoover it out, look for loose cables, burst/ bulging caps, dry joints and any signs of scorching on the circuit boards. Clean the fan and vent slots. Contact cleaner is good for the EQ sliders, pots and switches. If you do use this, give it plenty of time to dry out before you fire it up again or it may short out! Never work on the internals with the unit connected to the mains! Sorry for the Essay! Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.