Thunderbird Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) Just a quick question but how many cans of 400ml spray paint do I need to spray a bass body and how much lacquer to finish it ? Thanks in advance I have sprayed a few motors in the past but have no idea how to go about doing a bass lol Edited June 20, 2014 by Thunderbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brensabre79 Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 The last one I did I used all of 2 large halfords cans for the colour and 2 similar size for the nitro clear coat (R&F). I might have gone overboard for a nice thick finish, but one can is not enough. Hope that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 [quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1403281160' post='2481516'] The last one I did I used all of 2 large halfords cans for the colour and 2 similar size for the nitro clear coat (R&F). I might have gone overboard for a nice thick finish, but one can is not enough. Hope that helps! [/quote] Thanks bren that helps quite a bit now I just need to choose the colour I have 3 in mind lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubit Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) I find the problem is getting a uniform finish on all sides at once. Tried a bent piece of wire through a neck screw hole onto the washing line and that seemed to work. Still tricky though! Edited June 20, 2014 by ubit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 [quote name='ubit' timestamp='1403286589' post='2481563'] I find the problem is getting a uniform finish on all sides at once. Tried a bent piece of wire through a neck screw hole onto the easing line and that seemed to work. Still tricky though! [/quote] Agreed it is going to be a challenge I have only done nice easy straight car panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamfist Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 [quote name='ubit' timestamp='1403286589' post='2481563'] Tried a bent piece of wire through a neck screw hole onto the washing line and that seemed to work. Still tricky though! [/quote] I used a similar technique .... a bent coathanger through a neck screw hole and hung by a hook on my shed's ceiling. Worked well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maude Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 I've found by trial and error that the best way for me (by no means the only way) is to screw a piece of baton on as a 'replacement neck' and hold it around the 7th/9th fret area for control whilst spraying, have a hook screwed in the top to hang it from between coats, hold it up like a giant lollipop as this is more natural for most people than trying to hold it in the air and spraying from underneath. Spray around the sides first and then do the front and back, it will give a better finish than the front/back and then the sides as the overspray from the sides will make the front/back dry or peely if the sides are done last. I have been a panel beater/sprayer for 25 years so this is based on some knowledge. But whatever works for you works . Be careful if using the baton 'neck' idea when hanging between coats not to knock any dust or whatnot off what you're hanging it from, it will land in the top horns and make you go "Gosh darn it!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maude Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 Also, to help get an even coverage, and avoid runs, don't try to follow the outline of the body when doing the front and back. Imagine the body as a rectangle and spray that rectangle in nice even passes, if you try to follow the outline you will overload the areas where the spray passes inevitably cross, especially on the front around control cavities. You will use more paint this way as a lot will be overspray but it will achieve a more even coverage. Please don't think I'm teaching granny to suck eggs as I realise you've sprayed before, just helping if I can ................ BTW, where the hell does that 'granny sucking eggs' thing come from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamfist Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 THat all sound like good advice Maude. I've done a couple of basses but am still far from finalised on my technique. I think it's the sort of thing one will need to do dozens of bodies to get really accomplished at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) Warm the body, carefully, with a hair dryer or similar, and warm the cans, very carefully, just before spraying, gave me a better result And use a tack cloth to get the dust off Edited June 22, 2014 by rubis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nibody Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Watch out for bugs if you do it outside. And if its even slightly humid dont use Nitro! Blooms like hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 [quote name='Maude' timestamp='1403387021' post='2482358'] Also, to help get an even coverage, and avoid runs, don't try to follow the outline of the body when doing the front and back. Imagine the body as a rectangle and spray that rectangle in nice even passes, if you try to follow the outline you will overload the areas where the spray passes inevitably cross, especially on the front around control cavities. You will use more paint this way as a lot will be overspray but it will achieve a more even coverage. Please don't think I'm teaching granny to suck eggs as I realise you've sprayed before, just helping if I can ................ BTW, where the hell does that 'granny sucking eggs' thing come from? [/quote] Thanks for your help and advice it is greatly received and I don't think you are teaching me to suck eggs I did not think about doing it as a straight panel and I was going to do the front first and the sides last lol but now I shall be doing as you suggested it makes a lot more sense just one one other thing is one coat of primer ok ? I am going to be sanding most of the old paint away and trying to get it back to the wood and also how many coats of colour and lacquer do you think should be applied? thanks to all for the help thus far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maude Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) I would sand it back until the colour has gone but try and leave the sealer coat intact, that way you won't have to worry about wood grain and it being porous. It doesn't really matter about the colour being gone as you could apply your new colour over the top if prepped properly, but there is a risk of reactions between differing paints and the fact that if you chip it then the old colour will be revealed rather than the wood. If the sealer coat is intact then primer is not needed. I've always used a spraygun so not sure about the amount of coats needed using an aerosol, as a basic guide only use enough colour to actually colour it evenly, any more is just a waste of paint and could cause problems when lacquering. With a gun, two even coats is what I aim for with both colour and lacquer. With aerosol, light even coats until you have a good, wet look shine to it, obviously without overloading it. Another advantage to using the baton to hold it is that it's very easy get runs forming as you try to get a good shine on your lacquer, if you see a run or sag developing you can just turn it over or around and make it flow out until it has tacked off. Use nitrile gloves as you will spray your hand . If you are going right back to bare wood then you will need to prime or seal the wood a lot to stop all the grain showing through your finished paint, unless that's a look you want. Another choice you need to make is wether or not to let the colour coat dry completely and flat it before lacquering or wether you are going to 'wet on wet' it. Both options have their pros and cons. If you let the colour coat dry thoroughly then you can flat out any imperfections before lacquering, but you risk rubbing through on the edges if you're not very careful, not the end of the world as you can just blow them in with aerosol and let it tack off before lacquering. If you 'wet on wet' it is quicker and more risk free as you won't be touching the colour coat, but you need a good finish on the colour coat, any 'orange peel' will be amplified with consecutive coats of lacquer. Another tip regarding the insects if done outdoors, and another plus for the baton lollipop, is to do the spraying outside but bring it in and hang it between coats and for final drying. Obviously dependent on the constraints of your house. HTH Edited June 22, 2014 by Maude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Cheers Maude spot on nice one thank you kind Sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom1946 Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Just seen this, I've done a few bodies now and all I do is hand sand the original finish until it's roughed up enough for paint to adhere. I never try to take the colour off 'cos it's too much work. Obviously use finer and finer paper until it's really smooth, then tack it and spray with primer sealer. About 4 coats works for me. Then sand it with wet and dry 1000 grit and leave it for a day. I then put about 6 coats or the contents of a 400ml can on and let it dry, I use car paint that my local MF will mix up any car colour for me. I'm going to do a Renault liquid yellow next I let it dry for a couple of days and then use G3 to get overspray off and polish until unconcious. Works for me, I've had some good finishes too. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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