discreet Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) It might have the look of a 59 but a 72 wouldn't wear like that. My (ex) USA 76 didn't wear in that way at all. And why do the pots have no serial numbers on them? Does that happen? Edited July 18, 2014 by discreet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Sure - I realise the heel might be a bit overdone but it's not that far from the 69 jazz above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1405691532' post='2504400'] Sure - I realise the heel might be a bit overdone but it's not that far from the 69 jazz above [/quote] But Fender were using poly finishes in 1972 - completely different wear patterns from 1969 nitro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) Ok - I didn't appreciate the distinction other than in terms of being hard wearing or not. My p bass body is painted in nitro but I want to fake 70s wear as that's what its supposed to be approximate replica of. I think a best of breed wear pattern is good enough for my tastes I am thinking about how to mimic the paint dings - steel ruler, perhaps, for the wider ones and the pointy end of a pin hammer for the small ones Still at a loss about how to age chrome. Any suggestions? Edited July 18, 2014 by Geek99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 You can age chrome with hydrochloric acid vapour - there's a vid on YouTube - but you'd need to be a bit careful I reckon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skankdelvar Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1405692030' post='2504407'] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I am thinking about how to mimic the paint dings - steel ruler, perhaps, for the wider ones and the pointy end of a pin hammer for the small ones[/font][/color] [/quote] One needs to think about how such 'damage' might be acquired in real life. A headstock will glancingly catch the edge of cymbals whereas the rear face of the body will be 'scoured' face-on by a buckle. The body edge might catch against doorways or abrade at the back if stood on a concrete floor. It's a bit impractical to simulate real-life events, so a range of different objects could be used - coins, car keys, small and large screwdrivers. Some relicers commit the error of making all their dings the same size / depth and at 90 degrees to the surface. In real life some dings will be face on while others will be glancing; they will occur in logical places - edges, the back of the neck, on the top edge rear where the zip from a leather jacket has rubbed the finish away. With a poly finish, some dings should ideally have a hard, splintered edge that flakes away into the undamaged area. I'd avoid the temptation to sand around dings to accentuate the effect. In real life a guitar cops a ding, we curse and that's it. Rarely do we get out the sandpaper. [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1405692030' post='2504407'] Still at a loss about how to age chrome. Any suggestions? [/quote] The internet is crammed with threads and vids about this subject. Two approaches seem to predominate: i) Abrasion - very fine-grade wet & dry paper or a dish scourer. Manageable by degrees so that one can choose between a light 'haze' and fully stripped. Remove the parts from the instrument so you don't get metal dust in your pick-ups. ii) Acid fumes - suspend the parts in an enclosed container over some hydrochloric acid. Opinion is divided over the efficacy of actually dipping the parts in the acid. Either way, it's dangerous. Gloves and mask required, I'd have thought. A friend of mine aged some Telecaster parts using the abrasion method. It looked convincing enough. In real life, however, some of the wear will be caused by abrasion and some of it by the saline quality of sweat. Certain parts may not be exposed to much wear: neck plates won't get particularly sweaty nor will they be as exposed to wear as the uppermost edge of a bridge plate. Edited July 18, 2014 by skankdelvar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Apple Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 I dinged on of my basses when a triple sided scale ruler fell out a cupboard and hit the bass I had on the kitchen bench while executing my mad luthiering skillz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skankdelvar Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 [quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1405706548' post='2504601'] I dinged on of my basses when a triple sided scale ruler fell out a cupboard and hit the bass I had on the kitchen bench while executing my mad luthiering skillz. [/quote] Every relic-ed bass should have a triple-sided scale ruler ding. It would assist in distinguishing them from genuine originals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 [quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1405714664' post='2504727'] Every relic-ed bass should have a triple-sided scale ruler ding. It would assist in distinguishing them from genuine originals. [/quote] What about genuine fakes..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 With or without fender decal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discreet Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1405715628' post='2504740'] With or without fender decal? [/quote] Genuine or fake decal..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number6 Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 [quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1404130407' post='2489504'] "In our computer controlled relicing process, we only use the best of floors, real leather belts with brass and stainless steel buckles, and only the finest - pre-K that is! - Zildjian cymbals. [size=3][i]Sabian-hit relics made on special order, at a premium[/i][/size]." [/quote] I have only ever experienced Paiste dinks in the headstock.....bloody cheapskate drummer ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 [quote name='Thor' timestamp='1404158789' post='2489920'] '69 Jazz This has had a refin at some point in it's life - was originally Sunburst finish as I could spy a little burst when I had the neck off. [/quote] Anyone got ideas on how to get the flaky paint look ? Particularly in picture 3 at the edge (round file maybe ?) and the flaky as opposed to featured buckle rash ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadgie Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 yes, play it for 30+ years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skankdelvar Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1407850294' post='2524627'] Anyone got ideas on how to get the flaky paint look ? [/quote] Sharp pointed implement like a [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bradawl"]bradawl[/url]? Pierce the finish then flake it away in small amounts. The exposed wood will need darkening to simulate the passage of time - maybe a solution of water and fag ash (for that authentic vintage smell). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 [quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1407853036' post='2524665'] Sharp pointed implement like a [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bradawl"]bradawl[/url]? Pierce the finish then flake it away in small amounts. The exposed wood will need darkening to simulate the passage of time - maybe a solution of water and fag ash (for that authentic vintage smell). [/quote] It's weird you mention fag ash... my go to bass for a good 10+ years was my Jazz Plus V - every time I open the case (not too often these days tbh) and pick the bass up all you can smell is cigarette smoke, it's a natural alder (IIRC) body and has yellowed over the years, I guess as a result of a fair bit of sweat but mainly due to the nicotine that was evident at pretty much every gig I played during those years. As a non-smoker it's not a terribly pleasant smell but certainly takes you back to some good old days of gigging & fuels the memory (although to get home without smelling of an ashtray is nice). The '69 on the other hand has no such smell to it? I guess it's just odd that whenever I open the case it takes me back to venues I played as a young man and have never played since. Getting back to flaky paint, I can only think the prep for the refin wasn't great - poor paint adhesion seems to be the logical factor IMO. I reckon something sharp to pierce the paint and then pick at it as Mr Delvar suggests would get you close - just remember though, sometimes less is more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 one thing I do notice is that my bass has got very thick paint compared to that jazz above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingofthestuntmen Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Relic'ed 70's, eh..? I have to assume that my '72 is naturally relic'ed as it was acquired in 1989 (IIRC) before there was such a thing as Relic'ing... [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1701.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1702.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1706.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1707.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1710.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1704.jpg[/IMG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 Probably Like this one so much that i already had it on my phone lock screen - found it on google images Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 [quote name='kingofthestuntmen' timestamp='1408051142' post='2526724'] Relic'ed 70's, eh..? I have to assume that my '72 is naturally relic'ed as it was acquired in 1989 (IIRC) before there was such a thing as Relic'ing... [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1701.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/kingofthestuntmen/P-Bass/DSCF1702.jpg[/IMG] [/quote] Looking in close up the paint looks like a thinner layer than mine . I couldn't do those scrapes like near the strap buttons and expect to get through to the wood like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Does anyone have close ups of fingerboard wear (front and edges) and back of neck ? Also interested in close ups of "flea bite" dings Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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