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String Tension Comparability (Apologies if posted in the wrong place!)


steviebee74
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Not being too clever (read: confident) with doing my own setups, I'd like suggestions of a good comparable flatwound that can be interchanged on my 62RI P Bass.

It is currently set beautifully for 45-105 RW Rotos but can anyone suggest a good flatwound that is similar in tension and won't affect setup too much so I can avoid a costly trip to my local tech? The equivalent Roto 45-105 Flats (see below) always seem a bit heavier than rounds (or am I just imagining this?).

Likewise, my Jazz Bass is currently set for 45-105 Roto jazz flats and suggestions similar to the above would also be welcome.

Could the strings on the two basses just be swapped? I think I'd prefer them this way!

Thanks in advance.

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I've looked at the D'Addario string tension chart (can't find anything similar for Rotosound) and it looks like keeping to the same gauge will mean the least change in tension from roundwound to flatwound and vice versa; in that flats have a slightly higher tension than roundwound of the same gauge (within a couple of pounds) but that difference is less than you'd see by going up or down a gauge. Either way you'll probably need a minor tweak on the truss rod to get the relief back to where you want it.

http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf

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My AV '62 RI P-bass is wearing GHS Precision Flats 55-105, fitted/changed from the Fender rounds when new. Any changes to truss rod were minimal from factory settings & I don't remember having to change it since, for about 3 or 4 years.

IMHO - if you want to change strings at all - you're going to have to gain confidence in setting up, it'll pay huge benefits in the long run, getting the action & playability exactly how it suits you - without the bills!

There are hundreds of youtube set up videos, not to mention our very own Basschat Repair & Technical content B) http://basschat.co.uk/forum/12-repairs-and-technical/

Cheerz, John

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[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1405510024' post='2502498']
My AV '62 RI P-bass is wearing GHS Precision Flats 55-105, fitted/changed from the Fender rounds when new. Any changes to truss rod were minimal from factory settings & I don't remember having to change it since, for about 3 or 4 years.

IMHO - if you want to change strings at all - you're going to have to gain confidence in setting up, it'll pay huge benefits in the long run, getting the action & playability exactly how it suits you - without the bills!

There are hundreds of youtube set up videos, not to mention our very own Basschat Repair & Technical content B) http://basschat.co.uk/forum/12-repairs-and-technical/

Cheerz, John
[/quote]

There's also a great step-by-step guide by luthier Jerzy Drozd available for free through his website :-)

http://www.jerzydrozdbasses.com/en/?option=com_extrawatch&task=ajax&action=download&env=ExtraWatchJoomlaEnv&params=6randD&file=akcndfr54jdhrei567/Ultimate_Guide_ver100.pdf

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I've often had to adjust the saddles a smidgen to get the intonation bang on whenever I've changed strings and from my experience flats tend to need the saddles a touch further back which I think is down to a difference in the break angle between a roundwound and a flatwound string... another reason why it's well worth learning how to set up your own instruments correctly.

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I`ve found when switching between Roto rounds and flats that going to the same gauge on flats as I use on rounds I have to adjust the truss rod as they have more tension, so I`d suggest dropping a gauge and you should be roughly there.

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Just make sure that if you're tightening the truss rod it's best to slacken off the strings first, then retune and check the relief (I usually do 2 complete turns of the tuning ears so it's easy to get it back to the right tension).

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