Pre-EB Stingray "bullet" truss rod won't move...Advice!?

[bakerster135]

After having my Stingray a few months, the neck relief has gotten to the point where it needs a little tighten (forward bow, about 1mm gap at 7th fret with capo on 1st/fretting 21st).

I got the allen key out today and tried to give it a little clockwise turn, but it won't budge...I put reasonable but not excessive force on it (read all the horror stories about snap nuts/cracked rods), but it won't shift at all!

I'll likely be taking it to the Gallery to see what can be done, but just wanted to know whether anyone's experienced this before? If so, did you find any way around it?

I know it could either be a stiff nut, or a maxed out rod, but if there's a simple way around it I'd rather save a few bob!...

Any help will be muchly appreciated!

Al

[MB1]

MB1.
Think you just answered your own question?
The cheapest way is to let the guys at the Gallery have a look at it.
...Don't Force it!

[LukeFRC]

did you slacken the strings off? I tend to stand behind the bass, hold the body still with my knees and then gently pull the headstock back then tighten it. I just presume that it's not designed for one to try to use the threads of the truss as a ratchet system .

[LukeFRC]

but would also say somethings are worth paying for. Truss rod problems, frets and bike wheel balancing

[bakerster135]

Thanks for the replies guys (and sorry about the dual threads! ). I think it's off to the Gallery...

[stingrayPete1977]

I would try a squirt of wd40 down the hole, leave it overnight then 'undo' and remove the whole bullet tomorrow, you can then clean it up properly and even put a dab of copper grease on the thread before trying again, you might find it has plenty of travel left after.....or send it to the gallery

[DarkHeart]

dont use wd40 its a water dispersant not a penetrating oil, use plus gas which you can get from most motor factors and is designed to get where fog cant!

[HowieBass]

I thought WD-40 was a penetrating oil [i]and[/i] a water-displacing spray and was designed to leave behind a oily residue after the volatile lighter fraction evaporates which is why it's exactly the right thing for troublesome screws and bolts and exactly the wrong thing for cleaning crackly pots with.

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='DarkHeart' timestamp='1408141386' post='2527652']
dont use wd40 its a water dispersant not a penetrating oil, use plus gas which you can get from most motor factors and is designed to get where fog cant!
[/quote]
[url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-aerosol-lubricant-600ml/21697?kpid=21697&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&kpid=21697&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Auto%20and%20Cleaning-_-Shopping%20-%20Auto%20and%20Cleaning&gclid=CK7X3MSll8ACFWT4wgoduGgAuA"]http://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-aerosol-lubricant-600ml/21697?kpid=21697&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&kpid=21697&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Auto%20and%20Cleaning-_-Shopping%20-%20Auto%20and%20Cleaning&gclid=CK7X3MSll8ACFWT4wgoduGgAuA[/url]

Plus gas is better but I bet most people here have some WD40 knocking around, WD40 is a penetrating fluid 100% so I am not sure who told you that but I dont find that it lubricates very well even though it is advertised as a lubricant hence why I said to put a dab of copper grease on the thread before putting it back, copper grease does not set like regular grease so it will be just the job

[bakerster135]

Thanks guys, think I'll try the WD40 first!

I think this used to be yours actually Pete (bought from Andy Baxter, seen here http://www.andybaxterbass.com/details.php?id=477). It appears to match the one in your ad from a couple of years ago!

[stingrayPete1977]

I think you are right! She was quite a weighty beast but a proper pre EB Ray, very vintage feel compared to my 82 and sounded great live! I dont think I removed the truss nut on that one but I must have adjusted it at some stage, that said it must have changed hands a few times since I had it.

I could not work out the finish on that bass, I think it was a factory refinish as it was clearly black underneath the dings and in the cavity etc but looks like a proper factory top coat so I think it must have failed the QC on the first go then been sanded and blown over at MM, all just adds to some nice mojo now. It was me that dated it as a 79 rather than the 80 as it had been floating about at before as the neck was earlier and the pots were 79, the logo and stuff all pointed to pre 80 too. Funky old bass

[stingrayPete1977]

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/201015-1979-pre-eb-stingray-sold-pending-the-usual/page__p__1996910__hl__pre%20eb%20stingray__fromsearch__1#entry1996910"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/201015-1979-pre-eb-stingray-sold-pending-the-usual/page__p__1996910__hl__pre%20eb%20stingray__fromsearch__1#entry1996910[/url]

I did quite a nice listing for that one if I do say so myself
Part of me wishes I had kept all my previous Rays, my Teal 4 was really nice but I dont know who has it now or where my mint 82 is that Oldhorsemurphy had off me