Fret buzz on the first and second fret. Nut cut too high?

[dave_bass5]

I got a new bass yesterday (Yamaha TRBX505) and everything seems perfect other than a bit more fret buzz at the first two frets.Its not choking as such, its just louder.

Ive check the fret level and it seems ok. I was wondering if this might be to do with the nut height. It seems to me to be a bit high but then this si my first Yamaha bass so not sure what it should be.

Im thinking of taking it back and getting the shop to sort it out, but im hoping its a real issue rather than them just raising the action too high (its higher than im used to already).

I play with a pick and this seems to emphasise it, playing finger style seems fine.

Its a minor niggle but one id rather not have on a brand new bass.

Cheers.

[Andyjr1515]

If it's brand new then yes - get the shop to sort it

[dave_bass5]

Yes, that's what I'm going to do, but I'd like to be armed with a bit of info before I go.

Cheers.

[HowieBass]

When you mention the first few frets you mean when you fret a note near the nut? Nut height won't affect a fretted string when it comes to fret buzz though the depth of the nut slots might well be too shallow (which is what often happens with new instruments). I'd say it's more likely the neck needs just a touch more relief, maybe slacken off an eighth of a turn. As regards the nut slot heights, if they're not deep enough it will affect how you set the action and can cause tuning problems particularly with fretted notes near the nut. You can check the nut slot heights by holding a string down at the third fret and there ought to be a tiny gap between the string and the first fret, just enough for you to feel the string being depressed as you press it down.

[dave_bass5]

Thanks for the reply.
Yes, when I fret at the first fret (not sure the issue actually exists at the second now) and dig in I get more fret buzz than the rest of the neck.
My thinking, and knowing very little about all this, is it could just be me not applying enough preasure to force the strings to clear the second fret properly. Maybe the angle of the string is too steep and I just need to apply more preasure.

Ive played with the relief and it's not helped. Im normally ok at setting my basses up, I've been doing it for a few years but never touched the nut or frets, just the basic saddles/ truss rod stuff.

Ill give your suggestion ago and see if the nut height is as expected.

its a shame I can't get the action to my standard 2mm at the 12th fret (the manual States 3mm is the target height) but I guess I'm just going to have to get used to a higher action.

Cheers.

[stoo]

If the nut slot is too shallow then you may need to apply more pressure at the first couple of frets to avoid buzz... also makes it trickier to keep intonation accurate as the string will be stretched tighter.

I set mine up so that the base of the slot in the nut is in line with the tops of the frets, using a 6" steel rule as a straightedge. Either sit it in the nut slot and lay it against the frets in line with where the string would go, looking for a gap between the rule and the first fret, or just lay it against the frets and slide it up against the nut, checking how far below the base of the nut slot it hits..

[dave_bass5]

Thanks Stoo.

I've had a look and without taking the stings off ive used a 6" ruler and the top of the frets seem to be just below the bottom of the slots. I'd say this was ok.

Howie, I did your 3rd fret test and I can fell a small movement, the gap is a out the height of a thin business card.
I can start adjusting the truss rod more but I'm reluctant to do anything that might raise the action.

[HowieBass]

Regarding nut slot heights and setting the action, I (possibly incorrectly) imagine the combination of measuring the action and setting the saddle as if the string is like a seesaw where one end is the nut, the other is the bridge saddle and the fulcrum is where you're measuring the string height. If the nut is too high you'll be setting the saddles too low to achieve the desired height at (in your case) the 12th fret which means you'll get fret buzz. Lowering the strings at the nut by deepening the slots means you will have the saddles higher to achieve that same height at the 12th fret which gets rid of the fret buzz. At least that's how I imagine it works...

Edit: If you're not sure about making significant adjustments then take it back to where you bought it and ask them. I'm happy about messing about with truss rods but I know some people aren't and they'd prefer the shop to do it. It is a new instrument after all...

Edited October 19, 2014 by HowieBass

[dave_bass5]

Howie.
That's how I see it, although as I've never thought about the nut end before I can't say for sure that it's correct.
I'm fine with turning things, you can always put them back, but making a permanent adjustment is a bit beyond what I'm prepared to do with a brand new bass.

Looking at my other bass the nuts seem to be cut a lot deeper. I dont know if a 5 string is different, other than the extra thicker string. I can't imagine it should be but I maybe this bass has been designed to have a high action.

I'll certainly mention all this when I go to the shop tomorrow.

Cheers.

[iiipopes]

I had a guitar that had ever so slight back bow at the first two frets next to the nut. Nothing would help. I had to get rid of it. I have also had a guitar that the first two frets were not honed properly in finishing. A simple proper fret dressing fixed it.

Take it back to the shop and have them sort it for you - either adjust, repair or replace.

[dave_bass5]

Thanks for the reply.
Funnily enough today it seems to have settled down. I did tweak the truss rod a bit last night (although this wasn't the first time), and this morning all seems good.
Hopefully I can drop the action a bit more now.

This was my first experience with a Yamaha bass, and it's certainly not put me off.

[HowieBass]

Glad to hear it's settled - I was thinking of suggesting you leave it a day to see how the neck was... but no need now

Edit: One thing you probably will notice is the B string not bending/breaking across the nut as easily as the other strings. The same might well be true over the bridge saddle on your bass - it'll be a consequence of the sheer thickness of the string (I've got the same thing with my Curbow 5). You can create a bit of a witness point by gently pressing the string down as it breaks over those points but the B string nut slot might well need a little attention to get the string sitting properly. BTW I always push strings down at the saddles when I have a new set to make sure the tuning/intonation is spot on.

Edited October 20, 2014 by HowieBass

[dave_bass5]

Thanks. Yes, I think maybe I was a bit premature. I think maybe I'll be able to lower the saddles a bit now.

Even though it was fine at the gig on sat (can't say the same about the playing) it was one of those things that stood out, as it's not happened with any of my other basses.
I love the bass, and it's going to be my only gigging bass for a while. It's nice to be back to 5 strings, although so far it's just used for the low end last note of the song type of thing :-).