Passinwind Posted September 5, 2016 Posted September 5, 2016 [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1473078438' post='3126618'] The second operation was just as successful but other things have delayed the project. You may remember that I stated this thread when my wife was ill. She got progressively worse and I took on the role of full time carer. Sadly she died in June. I am still sorting out the many problems bereavement caused but I will be continuing the project soon. [/quote] As I've said in our emails, I feel deeply for you and will do whatever I can to make finishing up your build as smooth and fun as possible. I am just finishing up my 4th variation on this basic format, which happily will live somewhere else than chez moi. They all sound very good and I'm confident that yours will too. Quote
Chienmortbb Posted April 28, 2017 Author Posted April 28, 2017 This build is still ongoing. I have been toying with different front panel ideas and decided to stick with the water slide decals I used for the back panel. The front panel is now drilled and sprayed silver. ( pics to follow). I had only one sheet of clear decal paper left and so really made sure everything was right. Put it into the slot for thicker paper and turned to the PC to select print. I thought I heard the printer start to take the paper through and tried to pull it out. MISTAKE. The paper creased and that caused a paper jam. My last sheet ruined. So I have ordered another 5 sheets and hope to have the panel finished next week As with the 1x12 cab build, I have deadline, my next gig is May 13th so you should see progress here's soon. Quote
Passinwind Posted April 28, 2017 Posted April 28, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1493383319' post='3287952'] This build is still ongoing. I have been toying with different front panel ideas and decided to stick with the water slide decals I used for the back panel. The front panel is now drilled and sprayed silver. ( pics to follow). I had only one sheet of clear decal paper left and so really made sure everything was right. Put it into the slot for thicker paper and turned to the PC to select print. I thought I heard the printer start to take the paper through and tried to pull it out. MISTAKE. The paper creased and that caused a paper jam. My last sheet ruined. So I have ordered another 5 sheets and hope to have the panel finished next week As with the 1x12 cab build, I have deadline, my next gig is May 13th so you should see progress here's soon. [/quote] Nobody said it would be easy, but you've certainly had more than your share of setbacks. I actually managed to trade my modular version towards a new bass a few weeks ago. It's out of my comfort zone in several ways: single cut, 5 strings, and fretted. The last part is the biggest obstacle right now, since I haven't owned a fretted bass for over 30 years. I've been shedding like crazy on it for a preamp/amp demo I have coming up this Sunday at a Seattle GTG. Feels really good to be stretching myself a bit again. Edited April 28, 2017 by Passinwind Quote
Chienmortbb Posted May 7, 2017 Author Posted May 7, 2017 Well the new cheaper decal papers from Amazon were awful. I have done a front panel with the white decal paper I have. There are some positional errors but it does not look too bad. [size=4]I am going to wire everything up, and test then finish the front panel after. I might still go for an engraved one. here is a mock up with [/size]the[size=4] knobs just resting on top,[/size] [size=4][/size] [size=4] [/size] Quote
Beer of the Bass Posted May 8, 2017 Posted May 8, 2017 That panel does look quite good for decal paper. I've been using it on various things myself, and the results are rarely entirely perfect. I've found it likes to creep when coated over, and my prints always seem to end up a little low-resolution looking, but I'm not computer savvy enough to figure out why. One thing I do quite like the look of is to apply clear decal paper to the reverse side of 1mm clear polycarbonate and use it as an overlay, rather than applying directly to the metal panel. I would be able to get access to a laser cutter, but I've never got around to sorting out my graphics skills well enough to figure it out properly. Quote
Chienmortbb Posted May 8, 2017 Author Posted May 8, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1494253444' post='3294352'] That panel does look quite good for decal paper. I've been using it on various things myself, and the results are rarely entirely perfect. I've found it likes to creep when coated over, and my prints always seem to end up a little low-resolution looking, but I'm not computer savvy enough to figure out why. One thing I do quite like the look of is to apply clear decal paper to the reverse side of 1mm clear polycarbonate and use it as an overlay, rather than applying directly to the metal panel. I would be able to get access to a laser cutter, but I've never got around to sorting out my graphics skills well enough to figure it out properly. [/quote]Applying to the rear of acrylic or polycarbonate sheet in reverse is probably the best idea. That or an engraved panel may be my best step but I am trying one more thing tonight before I give up. More later. As for they graphics, all done on the free drawing package in Open Office or Libre Office. Oh and I do have a Laser printer but only a cheap Samsung one. One more thing. Even the good decal paper is very fiddly. I found when I did the back panel that it was best to cut the decals into the smallest size possible. Much easier to handle. Edited May 8, 2017 by Chienmortbb Quote
Passinwind Posted May 8, 2017 Posted May 8, 2017 [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1494259045' post='3294447'] Applying to the rear of acrylic or polycarbonate sheet in reverse is probably the best idea. That or an engraved panel may be my best step but I am trying one more thing tonight before I give up. More later.[/quote] I approached the guys who did the UV printing on my last two NAMM stompboxes about doing some amp or preamp panels for me. They were totally game and I was all set to use them until Front Panel Express started offering that as an option to engraving and infilling. I'm tentatively planning on using both technologies on my next build, whenever that happens. Good luck with the decals though, looks like you are very close to nailing it. Quote
Chienmortbb Posted May 10, 2017 Author Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) Well I was not happy with the last look so i stripped it, sprayed it Silver and tried again. It is still not perfect but I will use it as is to complete the wiring and if I cannot live with it, will do as passinwind suggested and use Front Panel software from [url="https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/downloads/front_panel_designer/?no_cache=1"]Schaefer[/url]. Current estimate is about £40 for a really professional front panel but if the amps is as good as I hope, it will be worth it. The alternative is to go for an engraved panel from [url="http://modulusamplification.com/CUSTOM_FACEPLATES-W3.aspx"]Modulus[/url]. So on to wiring! Incidentally the empty holes are from left to right, High/Low switch, Input jack, and Mute. Edited May 10, 2017 by Chienmortbb Quote
Passinwind Posted May 10, 2017 Posted May 10, 2017 [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1494414832' post='3295727'] Well I was not happy with the last look so i stripped it, sprayed it Silver and tried again. It is still not perfect but I will use it as is to complete the wiring and if I cannot live with it, will do as passinwind suggested and use Front Panel software from [url="https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/downloads/front_panel_designer/?no_cache=1"]Schaefer[/url]. Current estimate is about £40 for a really professional front panel but if the amps is as good as I hope, it will be worth it. The alternative is to go for an engraved panel from [url="http://modulusamplification.com/CUSTOM_FACEPLATES-W3.aspx"]Modulus[/url]. So on to wiring! Incidentally the empty holes are from left to right, High/Low switch, Input jack, and Mute. [/quote] Cool. I often do my builds with a temporary front panel, since I always seem to end up wanting a different layout by the time I'm done anyway. Quote
stevie Posted May 10, 2017 Posted May 10, 2017 Just because we don't comment doesn't mean we're not interested in what you are doing. Keep it up! Quote
Phil Starr Posted May 10, 2017 Posted May 10, 2017 [quote name='stevie' timestamp='1494439837' post='3296031'] Just because we don't comment doesn't mean we're not interested in what you are doing. Keep it up! [/quote] +1 Quote
Chienmortbb Posted May 10, 2017 Author Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) Ok latest front panel mock up almost ready for wiring. It does not look too bad except some pf the decals are slightly off centre and some off the pots need their location tags removed and the shafts cut to size. Edited May 10, 2017 by Chienmortbb Quote
Chienmortbb Posted May 10, 2017 Author Posted May 10, 2017 (edited) I contacted Michael at Modulus Amplification and he can do a silve /black panel to my design. To buy more decals sheets would be at least £10, you need lots of spares as I, at least, never get it right first time. For £22 from Modulus I get a properly produced front panel. I am really happy with the design except for a few things. The switch next to the input jack will go. It is too close to the jack and might get knocked and damaged. I will put two sockets, one high impedance for passives and one lower impedance for actives, as on passinwind's original design. Charlie only plays active basses. There is an argument that the lower impedance works well for passive basses too. Having the option will mean I can test that theory for myself and it may reduce induced noise. The switched mids was not on Charlie's original design, that was 450 Hz fixed, but I love the Mid on my old HH amps at 650Hz so I put a switch in so I could choose. The original design also had the capability of a bright switch but, like Charlie, I have decided not to implement that. I have also wrongly labelled the EQ and PEQ switches. They are PEQ and HPF on and off, the normal EQ section is in all the time. The switch on the far right is a MUTE switch but I may or may not include that. Power on the right is for an RGB LED. If I include the mute then the colour will change if muted. Blue for on, Red for mute. I will make all these taxing decisions after a pint of Ringwood beer. More later. Edited May 10, 2017 by Chienmortbb Quote
Beer of the Bass Posted May 10, 2017 Posted May 10, 2017 That's not a bad price for a panel from Modulus. Though I've not used their panels, I've found them to be good to deal with when buying valve amp parts. Regarding input impedance and passive basses, just how low are you considering? I could hear little difference between 1M and 10M, for instance, but when you get down to 100k or so I do hear a difference in the highs. Quote
Passinwind Posted May 11, 2017 Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1494449204' post='3296156'] That's not a bad price for a panel from Modulus. Though I've not used their panels, I've found them to be good to deal with when buying valve amp parts. Regarding input impedance and passive basses, just how low are you considering? I could hear little difference between 1M and 10M, for instance, but when you get down to 100k or so I do hear a difference in the highs. [/quote] FWIW, I've gone as low as 18K on some of my amps and preamps. My passive/high impedance inputs are usually at around 270-330K or so, but they are really just meant as a courtesy for guest players at open mikes and the like. My preamps can make crazy high end up into the ultrasonic range quite gracefully, and a higher input impedance tends to necessitate reining that in, which I prefer to avoid given my own wants and needs. My workaround for unbuffered piezo pickups and the like is to insert an active DI/buffer box inline with the active input. I've also been playing around with discrete FET preamps lately (Tillman/Kruetzer style), and I could see adding one of those boards working well for John if he needs a higher impedance and or a little more gain at the front end. Tradeoffs, always tradeoffs. Edited May 11, 2017 by Passinwind Quote
Chienmortbb Posted May 11, 2017 Author Posted May 11, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Passinwind' timestamp='1494471460' post='3296265'] FWIW, I've gone as low as 18K on some of my amps and preamps. My passive/high impedance inputs are usually at around 270-330K or so, but they are really just meant as a courtesy for guest players at open mikes and the like. My preamps can make crazy high end up into the ultrasonic range quite gracefully, and a higher input impedance tends to necessitate reining that in, which I prefer to avoid given my own wants and needs. My workaround for unbuffered piezo pickups and the like is to insert an active DI/buffer box inline with the active input. I've also been playing around with discrete FET preamps lately (Tillman/Kruetzer style), and I could see adding one of those boards working well for John if he needs a higher impedance and or a little more gain at the front end. Tradeoffs, always tradeoffs. [/quote]Well I have three basses, one, my Greg Bennet, is active. The other two are a passive, a Fender Aerodyne Jazz and a Peavey Milestone (V )P type). I will be putting a Musician 2 band in the Peavey at some point and the Fender is about to get new pots, probably followed by a buffer although that might change if I decide I am good at routing. The idea behind the new pots for the Fender is that even with the J pickup fully off, there is still some interaction with the P pickup. So I was going to put switched pots in so I can really solo the pickups. Ironically I usually use either a BDI20 or my Korg AX3000B in the front anyway so I am already buffering it. Edited May 11, 2017 by Chienmortbb Quote
Chienmortbb Posted June 1, 2017 Author Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) I got the finished Front panel From Michael at Modulus Amplification today. I am very pleased and now have no reason to prevaricate. Build restarts tomorrow. An apology to Passinwind, the model number should have read PW7B-500UK as the preamp is basically his design PW7B. The name Cand Heat? I live in Canford Heath near Poole. Having had a business before that used the Canford name (because that is where the business was) and being ferociously pursued by Canford Audio's Rottweilers (Trade Mark Lawyers), I thought two fingers up to them would not go amiss. Edited June 1, 2017 by Chienmortbb Quote
Passinwind Posted June 8, 2017 Posted June 8, 2017 [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1496337933' post='3310704'] I got the finished Front panel From Michael at Modulus Amplification today. I am very pleased and now have no reason to prevaricate. Build restarts tomorrow. An apology to Passinwind, the model number should have read PW7B-500UK as the preamp is basically his design PW7B. The name Cand Heat? I live in Canford Heath near Poole. Having had a business before that used the Canford name (because that is where the business was) and being ferociously pursued by Canford Audio's Rottweilers (Trade Mark Lawyers), I thought two fingers up to them would not go amiss. [/quote] Aww, no need to cite me in any way, but that's plenty close enough in any case. Hope things go smoothly for you from here on out. Quote
Chienmortbb Posted June 10, 2017 Author Posted June 10, 2017 (edited) https://i.imgur.com/g7dEyJT.jpg Front panel dry fit. Wiring starts tomorrow. I cannot decide whether to keep the knob colours as they are here or go all back. I will try all black once so remember where so put the other black knobs. Charlie I do give you a credit on the rear panel, Sorry but I cannot get the image on the post from my phone. I will do it later when I get home. Edited June 10, 2017 by Chienmortbb Quote
Chienmortbb Posted January 9, 2021 Author Posted January 9, 2021 This may seem like a zombie thread but since the last post I have been building the After Eighty small combo based on an Ashdown After Eight . In the next few weeks I will finish that and come back to this build. 1 Quote
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