Routing without ruining

[Prime_BASS]

i have a bass laying around that I want to add a bridge pickup too.

I have no idea what I'm doing and what to get it done fast, cheap and well.
However I know you can only have 2 of those options so I'll go with fast and well.

How can I get this routed without ruining the surrounding area or needing to refinish?

[3below]

Carefully with a template and template router bit(s) with top guide bearing (1/2 and 3/.8"). You will also need a 1/8" straight fluted bit. Once you have these practice on scrap, many times. Fortsner drill bits to hog out the rough cavity make life easier - Lidl had these at knock down price recently. Good luck and watch those fingers, you need them for bass playing.

The easy answer might be find a luthier who will do it for you, should not be expensive

[icastle]

Slowly and carefully is the main thing - take off too little and you can have another go, take off too much and you're stuffed.

Sharp router bits are essential on at least the body surface to reduce the chances of lacquer cracking.

The most important thing is as 3below says above - keep your fingers out of the way.

I didn't and almost lost the tip off one of mine - I have a decorative scroll edged finger as a permanent reminder.

[hamfist]

I have done many, many successful bass pickup routs with a Dremel, using their router attachment. It's still all handheld though. The key things when routing with a Dremel that I have learned are ......

1/ Measure , and then measure again, with strings in position before marking the rout.

2/ Put tape (sellotape is great for this) all around the area to protect the finish).

2/ Hog out a good load of the wood with a std electric drill using a) a Forstner bit, or any big old wood drill bit (mark the bit with tape so that it does not go down deeper than you want).

3/ Once you get to routing, do it in good light. Rout down slowly and carefully a mm or two at a time with a decent router bit (6mm diameter is a good size).

4/ Personally, I always rout out the upper few mm of wood a little small and then finish off with a big metal file and then fine abrasive paper. I get a great controlled edge like that.

5/ practicing on something you do not value first would be a very good idea. Make sure it is hardwood though, so it will react similar to a bass body.

Take your time, be sensible and routing basses with a Dremel is safe and effective.

Edited November 17, 2014 by hamfist

[gelfin]

Use a VERY sharp blade (Stanley) to mark out the cavity on the surface. Do this gently a few times. This will help prevent any cracks, chips in the surface from spreading out.

[yorks5stringer]

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1416174892' post='2607697']
Use a VERY sharp blade (Stanley) to mark out the cavity on the surface. Do this gently a few times. This will help prevent any cracks, chips in the surface from spreading out.
[/quote]

and watch your fingers with a Stanley Blade too!

[6v6]

If you're going to rout it yourself, make or buy a template. Yes it's more money or time, but freehand routing is incredibly difficult to do accurately, especially if you're not super-confident with the tool.

There are a few ways to make templates, but see [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/200152-1x12-diy-cab-build/page__view__findpost__p__2211141"]http://basschat.co.u...ost__p__2211141[/url] for one way I use, which is put some small battens under the ply/mdf scrap, drill through then cut inside the line with a jigsaw and use a flush-trim bit to get an accurate square template aligned with the battens.

Edited November 17, 2014 by 6v6

[Roland Rock]

If you need a hand, give me a shout - you live within walking distance of my workshop!

[Horizontalste]

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1416214613' post='2607886']
If you need a hand, give me a shout - you live within walking distance of my workshop!
[/quote]

That's what I'd do ^^^^^