timmyo Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hi there, I'm seriously considering adding a P pickup to my MM Sub (USA) Sterling. It looks as though I'd need to flip the P pickup a la Sandberg, but what about the actual routing? As it will be under the pick guard I don't need it to look perfect - just be big enough and have enough depth to screw it down to the right height. Has anyone here done something similar? I really prefer not to have to buy templates or power tools to achieve it as this is likely a one-off exercise. Anyone hit any thoughts or tips? Thanks Tim P.s. Where might I be able to get someone to cut a Sterling pickguard with this additional pickup cut in it too? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randythoades Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I have done it a few times wit a dremel on my project basses. Much harder than it looks. Draw an accurate template on the body or on masking tape to stop the gloss varnish from splitting. I found that the best idea was to buy the router frame for the demel and do several small 2mm deep routs until you get deep enough. I leave about 2mm all the way round first then finish up to the line by hand. My best advice is TAKE YOUR TIME and do not rush it. Using the dremel I would allow say 3 hours to do the cavity to a good level. Similarly with the pickguard, buy a spare or a pickguard blank and cut it yourself using the same technique (although much quicker) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradwell Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Sharp chisels and a fair amount of care/patience if you're not buying a router. Dremel will do it if you have the correct attachments but that also takes time. I'd also get another standard MM pick guard and cut the pick-up hole for it yourself, shouldn't be too expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 [quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418913643' post='2634773'] P.s. Where might I be able to get someone to cut a Sterling pickguard with this additional pickup cut in it too? Cheers [/quote] If you get the pickguard cut first, you can then use it as the router template for the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmyo Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Thanks folks As the pickguard will be on show I'm wary of doing that myself - I'd prefer to trust that bit to someone experienced. I don't mind buying a chisel - would that be simpler than Dremeling do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 [quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418916708' post='2634825'] Thanks folks As the pickguard will be on show I'm wary of doing that myself - I'd prefer to trust that bit to someone experienced. I don't mind buying a chisel - would that be simpler than Dremeling do you think? [/quote] Safer certainly - a dremel freehand is not for the inexperienced. Even with a precision routing attachment (such as the Stewmac one) you can do a heck of a lot of damage in a very short time. If it is hidden, I would suggest you drill the bulk out (make sure you wrap a piece of Sellotape around the drill as a depth gauge so you don't go too deep) then finish off with a chisel. Hope this helps. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 By the way, get the pick guard done first so you can trace EXACTLY where the channelling out of the body needs to be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmyo Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Thanks guys. Does the rout need to be wider than the pickguard hole? (ie is the baseplate larger than the hole the pup pokes through?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradwell Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Try to get them both pretty close in terms of size - the rout should be just large enough for the pick-up to fit, even if it's covered by the pick guard. Best to make things as neat as possible. Would agree with the comments regarding free-hand Dremel work - it's only something I would use for fine detail. Low power router attachments are not a good tool for removing large amounts of material, they will wear quickly and potentially cause damage to you or your bass. Even with the Stew-Mac type attachment, Dremels do not have the inherent stability of a proper router when sat on the flat surface of a guitar body. Routers are one of my favourite power tools but they definitely require test pieces, decent kit and an experienced tutor to get you started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmyo Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Thanks again. I've found someone who will do the plate for me so that's good. Now I need to think about the whole electrics side of it - how to wire in a P pickup to the (active) Sterling electrics... :-/ ..... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brensabre79 Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 [quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418924179' post='2634950'] Thanks again. I've found someone who will do the plate for me so that's good. Now I need to think about the whole electrics side of it - how to wire in a P pickup to the (active) Sterling electrics... :-/ ..... ? [/quote] shouldn't be a problem, i dont think the MM pickup is active, there's just a pre-amp after the pickups. So you just need some way to switch (or blend) between the pickups. A simple 3 way switch will do it. Then you'll have master vol and EQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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