HIGIVEMEYOUREQUIPMENT Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Hey guys, I have a Schecter bass in drop C (CGCF) that wont seem to intonate. I use the bottom 4 strings from a 5 string set to handle the low tunings and recently have adjusted the truss rod to make the action high to avoid buzz of any kind whilst playing. Now I'm trying to intonate it and it won't budge. Am I missing a trick? did I adjust the Truss rod too much? Any intonation gurus out there for low tunings / thick strings? Cheeeeers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBus Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I don't know if it's related to your problem but I had a similar problem with EADGC tuning on a fiver that I suspect was originally BEADG. The E string would not intonate as the screw for that saddle was too short. Once a longer screw was put in the problem was solved. Don't know if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 You don't say why you can't get the strings intonated properly - have you run out of adjustment on the screws? I have a Curbow 5 and the B wouldn't intonate correctly, it was always a tad sharp when I had the saddle back as far as it would go. The intonation adjustment screws disappear into the block design saddles meaning the intonation screw was too long for that string so I took a hacksaw, cut a couple of millimetres off it, cleaned the sawn end up with a file and got the saddle back on and now get the B intonating correctly pretty much all the way up the neck, certainly to the 12th fret. One thing I would say is don't change the neck relief to adjust the action - set the relief according to what Schecter advise - I set my basses up with about .012" relief at the 8th fret and the action is usually 6/64" at the 17th fret for the low E and 5/64" for the G, so I've got a touch more than 6/64" action for the low B on my Curbow. Hope that helps. Howie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIGIVEMEYOUREQUIPMENT Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1420660169' post='2651908'] You don't say why you can't get the strings intonated properly - have you run out of adjustment on the screws? I have a Curbow 5 and the B wouldn't intonate correctly, it was always a tad sharp when I had the saddle back as far as it would go. The intonation adjustment screws disappear into the block design saddles meaning the intonation screw was too long for that string so I took a hacksaw, cut a couple of millimetres off it, cleaned the sawn end up with a file and got the saddle back on and now get the B intonating correctly pretty much all the way up the neck, certainly to the 12th fret. One thing I would say is don't change the neck relief to adjust the action - set the relief according to what Schecter advise - I set my basses up with about .012" relief at the 8th fret and the action is usually 6/64" at the 17th fret for the low E and 5/64" for the G, so I've got a touch more than 6/64" action for the low B on my Curbow. Hope that helps. Howie [/quote]Some good advice. It turns out my screwdriver was just too bad, I bought a new one this morning and now my schecter is almost fully intonated. I ran out of space for the low C to come back towards the bridge, but it's only a hair out so I can live with that. How should I fully intonate the low C though? Do I need a new bridge now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Has the saddle for the low C come all the way back? If it's a Fender BBOT style bridge where the intonation screw passes through the saddle then you'd get to a point where the string break angle becomes quite severe as the saddle approaches the back of the bridge which might impede adjustment. If it's like the situation I encountered (where the screw disappears into a chunky saddle) then shortening the intonation screw by a millimetre or so will help. You'll find that pushing down on the string as it crosses the saddle will create a witness point and the string will then probably intonate correctly - thick strings don't develop as sharp a break angle over the saddle so I've done this with mine. I wouldn't get a new bridge if your low C is only a fraction out of tune because I think you'll only really notice this higher up the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iiipopes Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) The thicker the string at pitch, or the lower the pitch for a given string, the more string core stretch there will be, and the more compensation may be required. All commercial basses have the bridges designed and set for the average compensation needed for average conventional string sets at concert pitch. This may be insufficient for drop or low tunings, and/or using what amounts to extra light strings at the lower pitch. Even if the saddle has sufficient travel, the spring may have to be trimmed to get the saddle back far enough to intonate. I have personally trimmed the E and B intonation springs of every bass I have ever owned in the last 39 years. You may have to move your bridge back, or get something like a BadAss bridge that has more compensation travel. Edited January 8, 2015 by iiipopes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Hard to say without seeing it, but if you've adjusted the action too high then the string will stretch as you push down at the 12th fret and you'll never get decent intonation. As I said earlier, it's impossible to say without seeing it, but if the action is excessively high then maybe the neck needs shimming? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88reaper88 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Am I wrong in thinking adjusting the truss rod for a high action isn't the way to do it? Surely the main way of adjusting the action is at the bridge and nut? The high action will mess the intonation up, especially if there's a big bow in the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 [quote name='88reaper88' timestamp='1420907852' post='2654878'] Am I wrong in thinking adjusting the truss rod for a high action isn't the way to do it? Surely the main way of adjusting the action is at the bridge and nut? The high action will mess the intonation up, especially if there's a big bow in the neck. [/quote] Correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIGIVEMEYOUREQUIPMENT Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 I've trimmed the spring down by almost half, but to no avail. As I said, it's only the Low C (thickest string) that's out by a bit. The string IS at a dodgey 90 degree over the basic saddle, but we'll see how that goes. I think i'll try looking at buying the proper gauge thingy (whats it called?) so that I can sort this problem out myself and on any other basses I have in future. Sure getting it set up for £30 would be easy, but I want to learn my own bass care skills! Cheers guys! All fair comments. Much love Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I had to take the spring out of the bridge on my B string to get somewhere close to correct intonation on my Ibby GWB35 once I fitted it with flats (it was OK with rounds). However, it now occurs to me, when do I ever play the B string above the 12th fret? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88reaper88 Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 If your running out of adjustment room, it may be time to move the bridge back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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