Rumple Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Look forward to seeing how you do this, I personally don't have a garage etc. either although I can borrow one but it's 150 miles away so not overly convenient! A technique that I would use indoors would be most interesting. When you mention Microfibre cloths are you talking about the cloths used to polish cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1425749034' post='2710350'] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/244071-fender-precision-lyte-body-refinish/page__fromsearch__1"]This is probably the most relevant thread for you, Rumple[/url]. It was the refurb of Paul S's black Precision Lyte, pictured above. Hope it helps. Andy [/quote] Fantastic, I'll sit sown with a coffee in the morning and have a good read of that thread. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 [quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1425749360' post='2710354'] When you mention Microfibre cloths are you talking about the cloths used to polish cars? [/quote] I use the cheapo ones from Sainsbury's / Homebase. I think they are around £5 for 4. I use a slightly fancier one as my 'tack-rag' - a window-cleaning one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1425749034' post='2710350'] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/244071-fender-precision-lyte-body-refinish/page__fromsearch__1"]This is probably the most relevant thread for you, Rumple[/url]. It was the refurb of Paul S's black Precision Lyte, pictured above. Hope it helps. Andy [/quote] HI Andy, I finally got around to reading your finishing thread this morning, it's very informative and well written, thanks for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 No probs - if you are tight on facilities and equipment, it's probably worth a try... Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 As it was a nice sunny Spring day in London Town and work was thin on the ground I decided to remove the finish on the body with a heat gun, it's my 1st attempt doing this and I was a bit too heavy handed to start with so the back is a bit gouged in places I'd got the hang of it by the time I tackled the front so that is a lot better but a tad scorched in places. [attachment=186056:IMAG0732 lr.jpg] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 The gouges will want filling and sanding down, but the scorches should cover OK with the primer coats assuming you are still planning on painting it a solid colour. The first one I did looked like the remains of a BBQ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 (edited) [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1426090213' post='2714268'] The gouges will want filling and sanding down, but the scorches should cover OK with the primer coats assuming you are still planning on painting it a solid colour. The first one I did looked like the remains of a BBQ! [/quote] Cheers, I'll try and find time tomorrow to do some filling. It's a nano second between the finish starting to flake a bit and the wood burning! Edited March 13, 2015 by Rumple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 I did some filling and then sanded the body down over the last couple of days, the next step is to wait for a dry and still day to add some filler primer, I'm guessing it doesn't have to be perfect conditions as it's a layer that will be sanded back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 [quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1426242561' post='2715985'] I did some filling and then sanded the body down over the last couple of days, the next step is to wait for a dry and still day to add some filler primer, I'm guessing it doesn't have to be perfect conditions as it's a layer that will be sanded back? [/quote] Just dry and still....so July, then lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1426247217' post='2716090'] Just dry and still....so July, then lol [/quote] there will probably be a one hour window on a Tuesday afternoon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Removed the old shielding and masked out the cavities and neck pocket today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Managed to get some filler primer onto the body today. [attachment=186775:IMAG0756 lr.jpg] *note to self, don't buy cheap aerosols again, one the nozzle blocked up and another developed a habit of spitting blobs of paint every so often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Excellent...it's on its way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 [quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1426610870' post='2719835'] *note to self, don't buy cheap aerosols again, one the nozzle blocked up and another developed a habit of spitting blobs of paint every so often. [/quote] Top tip, stand your aerosols in a container of hot tap water for about 15 mins before shaking the can. Helps the paint to fully atomise, especially at this time of year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1426687943' post='2720794'] Top tip, stand your aerosols in a container of hot tap water for about 15 mins before shaking the can. Helps the paint to fully atomise, especially at this time of year [/quote] Fantastic tip, I'll give that a try - cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumnote Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1426687943' post='2720794'] Top tip, stand your aerosols in a container of hot tap water for about 15 mins before shaking the can. Helps the paint to fully atomise, especially at this time of year [/quote] Please be carefull if you do this. I spent some 30 years involved with the filling of Aerosols which when made were tested to ensure that at 50 degrees C they did not leak or burst. However if heated above 50 C degrees it is likely that the contents of an aerosol will expand to such a degree that they will exert a hydraulic pressure within the can which will first reverse the dome in the base of the can and then split the seam or blow the valve out. One I left in a lab water bath and forgot blew a hole in a corrugated roof, and it made a mess that took ages to clear up, that was hair spray so it would be real mess if it was paint. Wear eye protection and be carefull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 [quote name='bumnote' timestamp='1426711739' post='2721253'] Please be carefull if you do this. [/quote] Blimey! maybe I'll just keep the cans indoors rather then in a cold shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 [quote name='bumnote' timestamp='1426711739' post='2721253'] Please be carefull if you do this. I spent some 30 years involved with the filling of Aerosols which when made were tested to ensure that at 50 degrees C they did not leak or burst. However if heated above 50 C degrees it is likely that the contents of an aerosol will expand to such a degree that they will exert a hydraulic pressure within the can which will first reverse the dome in the base of the can and then split the seam or blow the valve out. One I left in a lab water bath and forgot blew a hole in a corrugated roof, and it made a mess that took ages to clear up, that was hair spray so it would be real mess if it was paint. Wear eye protection and be carefull [/quote] Good advice here. I've been using this trick for years and not had a problem yet, probably through luck or the fact that the little painters bucket I stand the tin in doesn't contain enough heat energy to raise the contents of the can above the critical temperature. I imagine that your lab bath had a heater that maintained the temperature of the water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 +1 with the safety talk. Hot water (50 Celsius or more) Will heat up the can pretty fast, if it covers most of the can. I'd recommend a much cooler temperature 25 degrees say - that way the can isn't close to breaking, but it get's close to optimal temperature. I've one to hand that says 10 - 32 degrees celsius. I wouldn't recommend using very old, dented, or heavily rusted pressure vessels. Definitely don't heat them up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Kept the new can of filler/primer indoors this time and also bought a better product so it went on much easier On the down side my prep work leaves a lot to be desired and after a few coats, some rubbing down and a few more coats there still plenty of dings and scratches showing I thought the filler/primer would be thinker than it is and cover more imperfections then it seems to do, it's certainly better but not nearly good enough, I need to decide if I should sand the whole thing back to the wood and start again or get another can and keep going with the spraying and sanding, what do you guys recommend? [center][attachment=188647:IMAG0732 grey lr.jpg][/center] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) So as I was not totally happy with the results and thinking I remember filler/primer (back in the days when I fixed my rusty cars) being thicker than both types I'd tried I bought a different brand and thankfully that's a lot better, so now I've got a much smoother looking undercoat Below is a pic after the last dregs of the can were applied, it will need another light sanding (400 grit I'm guessing?) before any colour is sprayed. After weeks of indecision on a colour to do this I've finally ordered some gold alloy wheel aerosol paint, I suspect that for a beginner it's not going to have been the best choice but I have always fancied a gold bass, I thought I'd stick with Motip paint as their Primer was far superior than the other two I tried. [attachment=190241:IMAG0651 lr.jpg] Edited April 22, 2015 by Rumple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 (edited) The gold paint arrived today which pushed me in to action, I spent an hour or so in the garden with 400 grit Wet and Dry sanding the primer as smooth as I can it. [attachment=190453:IMAG0769 lr.jpg] Edited April 25, 2015 by Rumple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 (edited) I've put a couple of coats of colour on, really like the shade of gold but it's does show every small blemish and mark that didn't really show up when it was just primed. [attachment=190626:IMAG0770 lr.jpg] Edited April 27, 2015 by Rumple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Been very busy recently and this got left in the shed and forgotten about, unfortunately it fell over and the finish got damaged right down to the wood but I'm looking at it as a positive thing as I wasn't that impressed with my prep work and there were plenty of small dings and dents, so yesterday I sanded most of the finish off and applied more primer and today I've started applying the gold again, it's not perfect but a lot lot more acceptable this time I just have to make sure it doesn't fall over this time! I've ordered some hooks so I can hang it from the shed rafters rather than trying to stand it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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