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Defretting a bass.


Phil Adams
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If there's a thread already, please put me a link up.
If not........ assuming Sir isn't very delicate with his mits, and was thinking about getting this done for him, any idea of a ballpark price to help decide if it's worth it on a particular bass?
I'd love to be able to do it myself, but I'm a steel and hammers man and not cut out for delicate woodwork.

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There's this over at Talkbass [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/defretting.71144/"]http://www.talkbass....fretting.71144/[/url], from skim reading it most in that thread recommend filling the slots with wood dust, but that's never really going to be invisible so I would get yourself some contrasting veneer (Maple if the board is Ebony or Rosewood) to fill the slots with and have a lined fretless.

Where are you based? If it's just a one off you may be better paying someone to do it as you'll need to buy a few tools such as: soldering iron, radius block, abrasive paper, something to pull the frets with, glue and the veneer if you go that way. You'll also need to re cut the nut slots afterwards. Having said that, it's not a particularly difficult job, the only risky bit is pulling the frets if you haven't done it before.

Edited by Manton Customs
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Its super easy, I did one recently myself. Dab water of the fret, run a hot soldering iron across if for 15 secs then prize the fret up and repeat. I then filled up the gaps with light quick drying wood filler then sanded to a smooth finish once dry and its done!

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depending on the bass it might be better buying a fretless neck instead, then you can swap back to fretted at a later date, and you have the option of an unlined board if that's your preference, the side markers will be in the right place as well (speaking as a man with a defretted bass.)

Matt

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Thanks chaps,
yes I completely understand you Matt. I currently have one lined and two unlined fretless basses and the unlined have the side markers where the frets would be.
I would certainly go for lined if I were defretting, be confusing otherwise.
In retrospect though, the bass I was thinking about defretting is probably best left fretted, as apart from a Hohner Headless and a rather nice acoustic bass, it's the best useable fretted bass I've got. I think I'll have a go at setting it up instead.
Cue new "help" thread......

Thanks again guys.

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I've done one myself. I was a bit lucky getting the frets out clean which is the first big problem, the second is finishing the fretboard properly, the third is whether you apply a finish or not, and if you do, god help you if it doesnt go well. Defretting's a bit like having kids, the first is often a throwaway! :D

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For me, I'd rather inlays, rather than filler
Just a personal preference of course

I think I'd be sweating during the process of taking the frets out
I converted a Squier VM series PJ
.... but I just bought a fretless neck (for about 50 quid inc P&P on here)

Don't know what bass you have, but a change of neck might be the cheaper option?
That way, you either flog your current neck, or keep it in case you want to change back...

... just a thought

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[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1423688464' post='2688027']
I've done a half dozen defrets over the years, and have a few thoughts:

What does heating up the fret with a soldering iron achieve? You want the fret to come out the fretboard quietly, so why use heat to expand it? If anything you want to heat the fret and let it cool again, trusting that the tangs expanded into the wood when hot and result in less wood touching the fret. A nice idea but I've never seen a good reason to heat the frets (or wet them), it just seems to be blindly passed on as essential knowledge. I never heat the frets. I tried once, and you end up with a hot fret.

[/quote]

Hoping it's not supposed to be a rhetorical question...:)

A good reason for heating the frets is in case the frets are glued in, the heat softens the glue allowing easier removal.

Also as wood is porous and always with some moisture content the heat will cause moisture to leave the area surrounding the tang, and loosen it's grip on the tang. Making removal cleaner without dragging up fibers from around the slot. This can be particularly bad on Ebony if done cold.

Hope that helps if it was a genuine question if not...sorry!

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