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Finally finished - Stingray refinish


Jimryan
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Morning all,

Recently I went and bought a second hand a S.U.B ray 4 with the intention of it being my next project. The first step is going to be a re-spray, followed by upgrading the electronics and I'll also end up sticking a status neck on it.

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Fortunately, the bass cropped up on facebook locally to me and quite cheap too. Originally, the plan was to get the bass and not start the project until either summer or rebate time so only made a couple of basic mods to start with. Firstly, the scratchplate had to go. The previous owner had superglued a thumb rest to it and had been quite generous with the glue. Step two was upgrade to straplocks. On all my other basses I've installed schaller ones, as I have on this one.

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Next up was tuners. After fitting them on my other basses, I've decided I really like the ultralites and decided they'll be going on this one too. Ordered them along with a de-tuner, all in chrome, from the same store in the U.S. to save a bit of cash. However, upon their arrival I had a slight problem...

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Different finishes. Fantastic. Straight away I got in touch with the sender and explained what had happened along with copies of my order, and straight away the sender got back to me stating it was my fault that they can't read or pack the right items. The options I had was send the de-tuner back and pay shipping on a new one and customs when it arrived, or keep it. Or...

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Get the tools out. The U.S. parts and licenced parts aren't a perfect fit together, but damn close and still work fine. Tuner crisis averted and all installed.

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Since doing it on another bass, I've taken to the idea of angling back the tuners for comfort. It makes the world of difference and bizarrely makes the bass feel shorter (well it does to me anyway). It was after doing all these bits, I started to get quite into it and thought I'd start experimenting with paint, do a little test piece so I know what to use when it comes to it. After seeing the blue sparkle ray34 on here, missing it, finding it on gumtree and missing it again I decided it would be easier to make my own. At first I considered paying someone like sims, but I do quite enjoy the process and got about ordering the metal flake. The flake arrived very quickly and straight away got to spraying a small test piece to make sure it was what I was after.

At first I considered doing a few tests with different densities (light through to heavy) but it turns out that this stuff can be a pain to use. Initially a fair bit fell out the bag, but it became apparent straight away that a heavy cover is what I'm after.


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Over the next couple of days I sprayed a few clear coats on it over the next couple of days and decided that I'm definitely going with that. More flake has been ordered, base and clear costs have been bought too.

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Started getting quite excited and ahead of myself and prepared for stripping. It was at this stage I remembered how horrible a job stripping can be. Last time I tried nitromors and after getting excited and impatient had no results and turned to a heat gun. Having learned last time that patience is an absolute must, I thought I'd give nitromors another go. Knowing I'd have a quiet day at work, I popped into Brewers on the way to site and picked up a tub. The entire tub and bass went into a bin bag and that's where it stayed for the next 3 days. To remove any temptation I purposely left it on site so I couldn't crack and try and rush things. Yesterday I removed it from the bag and the nitromors had done a nice job on the clear coat, shielding paint and started on the black and base coats (especially around the cavaties and where screws where). Throughout the day I spent my breaks and quiet patches scraping off any loose and easy to remove bits. The plan now is to get another tin and do the same thing over this weekend. Now that I know the trick with nitromors I'll do that instead of a heat gun.

Edited by Jimryan
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I've got the pearl white one, but just bought the black abalone one off here but will be happy with either. With the status neck I'm tempted to have one made up with a blue tint and then try and give the headstock a matching finish.

Yeah, I was pretty miffed as sending it back and buying a new one would've cost more than paying full price over here. It was just fortunate I remembered seeing that it's possible to reverse the tuners. The trail of thought when, they're reversable...that means the key comes out...yeah I'll try it.

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That's after removing the loose yesterday. Picked up some extra strength nitromors during the day and it's now in a bin bag getting to work. The plan is to have a look on Friday to check how it's got on, but only if I've time.

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Well, after a weekend of soaking in extra strong nitromors I decided to open up the bin bag yesterday. Upon taking the bass out I discovered that the nitromors had done absolutely nothing. Which means I'll be getting the heat gun out one night this week.

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I look forward to a report on the heat gun. This looks so very easy http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Finishing/How_to_strip_a_modern_poly_guitar_finish.html but I am always disappointed when I try and do this stuff. This is usually down to my complete incompetence so if stripping with a heat gun is as easy as stewmac makes it look I will be very happy indeed as I have a bass I want to strip back to the wood.

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Owen, I've done it before with a heat gun on a previous refinish (there's a thread knocking about on here). From my experience doing it, it's not as easy as he makes out. However, he has a lot more experience than I do. With my first attempt excitement and patience got the better of me and I did burn the wood a couple of times but it still turned out fine. With this one I'm gonna try and be a little more careful and avoid making the mistakes I did before.

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So I finished work a little bit earlier yesterday and with an hour of sunshine left, I thought I'd get in the garden and strip the remaining paint off with the heat gun. Last time I used a heat gun, it was a lengthy process that took me a couple of hours each night for a week with lots of sanding and I wasnt 100% happy with the results. This time, I remembered my previous attempt, took my time and managed to get the whole thing done in an hour.

Where last time I thought it'd work with holding the gun on one bit at a time, this time I used a sweeping motion (it's also worth noting to hold the gun so it blows across the body, not straight down onto it). Constantly back and forth over large areas and the paint just came off in minutes. Once through I took to holding a scraper on the body against the paint and used the heat gun down the blade of the scraper. As expected, the horns and cut aways were a nightmare but it all got done in the end.

Whilst using the heat gun, I did notice that the blue-ish filler coat isn't used everywhere. There's a few spots that hasn't got any of it or the resin either. These were the only parts that are relatively perfect. Areas where the blue stuff has come off are in desperate need of filling and sanding, unfortunately, the nitromors did work on that but I've bought filler ready for the next stage.

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Nothing too interesting tonight I'm afraid. All I've done this evening is applied some filler to the top of the body. It's looks quite rough as I've added a little extra than necessary but will sort all that when I sand the body down prior to painting. I've also filled in the screw holes for the scratchplate as the holes on the new one I've bought don't line up.

Tomorrow night I'll apply filler to the back and sides and I'll probably sand it down either Friday or over the weekend on the morning I decide to paint it.

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Well, despite my last post I got some done today. Due to a late Tarmac delivery at work and an early finish, I managed to sand down the top of the body and finish filling and sand the back too. Originally I was just going to aim for a smooth finish but decided in the end to do things properly and remove most of the existing base coat too. As a result, the bass is now ready for painting and things are quite exciting.

As I've mentioned above, this isn't my first refinish. My first one was too rushed and although looks ok from a quick glance (the orange bass in the pics), up close you can tell it's been done by an amateur. Although it's not perfect, I'm glad I've done it once before and learned how not to do it. This time I'm being patient, I'm taking my time and with much more care and attention.

One thing I will state, is that I'm not bring as strict to the middle of the bass Whilst sanding. This is solely because I know that it's where the scratchplate is going. Due to not owning a spray gun and the nature of the metal flakes, this bass will most likely have a textured finish (but I quite like the idea of that and let's face it some flake finishes do look textured). With a textured finish in mind, I am considering not using the flake where the scratchplate goes. Not only will this be less work, it'll also make installing the scratchplate a little easier.

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[quote name='Jimryan' timestamp='1424368970' post='2695628']

Due to not owning a spray gun and the nature of the metal flakes, this bass will most likely have a textured finish (but I quite like the idea of that and let's face it some flake finishes do look textured). With a textured finish in mind, I am considering not using the flake where the scratchplate goes. Not only will this be less work, it'll also make installing the scratchplate a little easier.

[/quote]

Interesting! How are you going to apply your flake if you don't own a gun? Are you intending to do it the way the old skool car guys used to do it and just blow it onto wet paint?

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Something along those lines. Going on my little test piece I did, I've decided I like the heavy handed look with the flake so it'll either be blown on wet paint, or sprayed and dipped in flake whilst wet. Once happy I'll apply a clear coat (I've two, one is a standard clear spray and the other is a clear/sparkle/glitter thing) and sand down and start again with clear coat then flake. Unless I like the texture finish in which I'll skip the sanding phase.

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Primer/base coat applied...

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Loving watching this develop, blue flake will be awesome. I've put an original Ernie Ball pre amp in mine that I picked up off eBay, I had to make the cavity slightly bigger though. Just awaiting a EB pick up soon, although it's 90% sounding Stingray sounding with pre amp alone.

Is the Status neck a direct swap?

:)

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Right then, I finished work a little early again today so thought I'd make a start sanding down the blue coat with some wet & dry paper. It was around about the time I finished this, I realised that there wasn't much wind and could get away with attempting the flake.

Throughout the week I put a bit of thought into this and considered I might lose some of the flake when the excess falls off. Fortunately, my dad had a tray in the back of his truck that was perfect for the job. This got a thorough clean at the weekend and was ready to go.

Without the use of a spray gun, my method was going to be spray an area, chuck the flake on, shake off loose and repeat. Once I've tackled that I'll start the clear coats and (maybe) sanding flush. When buying the clear coats, I bought two varieties out of curiosity (as mentioned before, one is clear the other is clear/glitter). It was as I made my test piece I noticed that the glitter spray, had a tendency to turn some of the flake black (not ideal), so I thought I'd use this as the "bonding coat" as it were.

Orignally I was only going to do the horns and the cutaways this evening, but got excited and thought I'd use the rest of the bag off...and a second bag (I'm not even sorry). The front is pretty much done as is the sides with just a little left to do on the back. After using what I have, I've got two bags of flake left, one will finish it off, the other will be saved for touch ups later (or down the line) and possibly a matching headstock on the status neck (highly likely). Although earlier in this post I stated there was no wind, with metal flake being as light as it is...it will find a breeze and it will get everywhere.

This is not finished yet, but thought you lot would like to see the progress so far...

This is the catching tray I used (highly recommended if anyone is going to be silly enough to attempt this...
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Out of direct sunlight...
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In direct sunlight...
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