Rumple Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I've always liked the idea of Olympic White over sunburst Jazz Bass, I've seen a couple of old Strats in that combination and a Limelight Jazz, one day last year while passing some time on Ebay I stumbled across a P bass body in just that combination, it's not been done brilliantly but I liked the way the front looked (not so much the rear) so put a bid in and won it, maybe it was only me that liked it! I think it's a Squier body or something similar as it's made for a neck with a truss rod at the headstock so will need routing. Fast forward to Christmas time and I needed to come up with some pressie ideas, I love 66 Jazz Basses with dot and bound necks and lollipop tuners so I thought I may as well make a hybrid, Santa brought me a new neck and scratchplate and also lots of aged Fender parts from Madison in the US. I'm getting a couple of old looking stickers for the back of the body as I don't think it looks very good. I'm really a Jazz Bass kinda guy but I hope I get on with the P width neck and single pup, talking of pups, I have 3 sets of them, Aria, Encore and Squier, they were all pretty cheap but worth a try. As with everything I do it will probably take ages to complete Here's some pics: [center][attachment=183832:P1010378 lr.jpg] [attachment=183833:P1010379 lr.jpg] [attachment=183834:P1010381 lr.jpg][/center] [center][attachment=183835:P1010382 lr.jpg] [attachment=183836:P1010383 lr.jpg][/center] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc S Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Looks fine to me. I too prefer the shape of a Jazz neck Particularly at the nut end. Even that seems to vary more than you think though My own fave is my Roadworn Jazz - love that bass The neck is slightly wider & deeper than my US '72 reissue Jazz and slimmer than a 90's US Jazz I used to own! lol I used to dislike the chunkier P necks of old But a lot of P necks in recent years seem to have a friendlier, narrower shape & profile I think this is referred to as the "C" shape ? Anyhow, are you keeping that neck for the bass? Or will you change? I'm amazed at how good the China-made Squier Classic Vibe basses are The P has a lovely shaped neck, and it feels old too.... I've got a bitsa P, with Mighty Mite neck, and that also has a similar neck.... Plays better than the old US P bass I used to have years back Re the back of the body - you could always try distressing it a tad more, or even a bit of a re-paint? (even by hand should be alright - it's a roadworn / relic) Applying stickers, as you suggest, is another option - but I think it looks OK No-one's going to see it anyway.... I've said it many times before, but not particularly being a fan of relics / roadworns initially since getting my own roadworn - there's just such a liberating feeling, not having to worry about whether someones going to knock a cymbal stand onto your bass or kick it over etc etc Keep us posted about this bass I'm interested to see what you do with it Nice one Was it a bargain? Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc S Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 PS. (Me again! lol) I think it's the circular worn patch at the back I'm not hugely sold on (too even, maybe?) .... and the long scratches / paint splits.... Easy enough to paint out by hand, I'd say... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JapanAxe Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Subscribed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 [quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1423845025' post='2689674'] Looks fine to me. I too prefer the shape of a Jazz neck Particularly at the nut end. Even that seems to vary more than you think though My own fave is my Roadworn Jazz - love that bass The neck is slightly wider & deeper than my US '72 reissue Jazz and slimmer than a 90's US Jazz I used to own! lol I used to dislike the chunkier P necks of old But a lot of P necks in recent years seem to have a friendlier, narrower shape & profile I think this is referred to as the "C" shape ? Anyhow, are you keeping that neck for the bass? Or will you change? I'm amazed at how good the China-made Squier Classic Vibe basses are The P has a lovely shaped neck, and it feels old too.... I've got a bitsa P, with Mighty Mite neck, and that also has a similar neck.... Plays better than the old US P bass I used to have years back Re the back of the body - you could always try distressing it a tad more, or even a bit of a re-paint? (even by hand should be alright - it's a roadworn / relic) Applying stickers, as you suggest, is another option - but I think it looks OK No-one's going to see it anyway.... I've said it many times before, but not particularly being a fan of relics / roadworns initially since getting my own roadworn - there's just such a liberating feeling, not having to worry about whether someones going to knock a cymbal stand onto your bass or kick it over etc etc Keep us posted about this bass I'm interested to see what you do with it Nice one Was it a bargain? Marc [/quote] Hi Marc, I too have a Fender RW Jazz that I love the neck on, admittedly it's had some work done to it including a new fingerboard so it's not original. The neck is the neck I bought, it has a cream binding and some nice flaming to the maple on the headstock Although it's wider at the neck than a Jazz it's quite shallow so I'm hoping it will be comfortable to play. Also there is something a little more organic about having a bass painted with thin Nitro rather then thick shiny Poly. I agree with your comments about the back it looks a tad more contrived then the front, I wouldn't normally put stickers on a bass but nothing about this one will be normal to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Quick update while I'm here. I removed the scratchplate which was help in place with the wrong type of screws to reveal CTS pots which is a plus! while I was at it I took the ugly Shaller locking strap thingies off and the nasty bridge. I've used some fine pretend wire wool to take a lot of shine off of the new scratchplate and I'll leave it soaking in tea and coffee over night to see if I can get the white ply to yellow up a bit, I have no idea if this will work mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Yay for building with cheap parts off ebay. It is the best fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EliasMooseblaster Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 As somebody who finished a similar eBay Bitsa project last year, I say: good on you, and good luck! Looking forward to seeing the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 [quote name='owen' timestamp='1423848071' post='2689729'] Yay for building with cheap parts off ebay. It is the best fun. [/quote] [quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1423848155' post='2689731'] As somebody who finished a similar eBay Bitsa project last year, I say: good on you, and good luck! Looking forward to seeing the results. [/quote] It's a bit like glorified Maccano. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Soaking the scratchplate in tea and coffee overnight didn't work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 It's not going well today If the tuner holes were equidistant apart the tuners might have fitted but as the D hole is closer to the A hole (not being rude there!) I can't get all 4 tuner to fit. I'm not sure what to do to remedy the issue, do I drill slightly bigger holes for all the tuners so I have some wiggle room then glue the ferrules in as they will be loose or maybe fit the tuners without the ferrules in place then sand the holes to take the ferrules? Any help tips? Here's the tuners with Ferrules in place. [attachment=183871:With Ferrules Back.jpg] Without Ferrules [attachment=183872:No Ferrules Back.jpg] Front without Ferrules [attachment=183873:No Ferrules.jpg] Also he G string tuner is borderline hanging over the edge of the back of the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 (edited) If it was me, I'd grind a little bit off the long side of the tuner bass plates until they fitted snug with either a file or preferably a Dremel or similar. The pro alternative would involve plugging and re drilling the tuner peg holes. Edited February 14, 2015 by JPJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1423943689' post='2690760'] If it was me, I'd grind a little bit off the long side of the tuner bass plates until they fitted snug with either a file or preferably a Dremel or similar. The pro alternative would involve plugging and re drilling the tuner peg holes. [/quote] Thank you for the advice, would grinding the base plates be OK as they are chrome plated? admittedly it aged so may not matter, I just wondered if it might flake? I don't have a Dremel but it something I probably should get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Depending on how much you need to remove, you could use a file and this would reduce the chance of the chrome flaking. That said, if the chrome is applied properly then it shouldn't flake and as the tuners are aged, a little bit of flaking shouldn't look out of place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubit Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 I've built a few basses and have found that changing tuners for another brand can help cos there's a multitude of different sizes available. I was always swapping them around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1424011613' post='2691477'] Depending on how much you need to remove, you could use a file and this would reduce the chance of the chrome flaking. That said, if the chrome is applied properly then it shouldn't flake and as the tuners are aged, a little bit of flaking shouldn't look out of place. [/quote] It's an excuse to buy a Dremel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 [quote name='ubit' timestamp='1424011866' post='2691484'] I've built a few basses and have found that changing tuners for another brand can help cos there's a multitude of different sizes available. I was always swapping them around. [/quote] I have done that in the past, in fact I had to do it to the Jazz bass I'm also doing at the moment, the Wilkinson tuners I had for it were way to big for the J&D headstock so I bought some more smaller Squier ones and they fit nicely. Before starting messing about with bitsa basses again I'd assumed almost all tuners would fit a Fender style headstock. With this build I really want the Lollipop tuners, I think they go really well with the dot and bound neck, they were the most expensive parts to purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Today I did a bit of cavity shielding as I realised there wasn't any at all when I removed the scratchplate. I might get a roll of cheap Aluminium tape to do the underside of the scratchplates with as that doesn't really need to have conductive glue, if I need to join any I can use a little copper tape or fold the corner over on one bit to make a connection. After a tiny bit of sanding of the neck pocket I put the neck in place, then ran some strings through the bridge and over the nut to see how it all lines up, looks like it's going to be spot on [attachment=183965:Shielding.jpg] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 I bought a few of these electrical clips, they are meant for mains electricity but I'm hoping I can use them temporarily between the pick-up and the volume pot so I can easily test out different pick-ups without having to resolder each time. [attachment=184136:clip.JPG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuNkShUi Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 [quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1424175431' post='2693415'] I bought a few of these electrical clips, they are meant for mains electricity but I'm hoping I can use them temporarily between the pick-up and the volume pot so I can easily test out different pick-ups without having to resolder each time. [attachment=184136:clip.JPG] [/quote] Cracking idea if that works! Looks good so far mate. Always wanted to do something like this, so will be good to see how you fare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc S Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) [quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1424175431' post='2693415'] I bought a few of these electrical clips, they are meant for mains electricity but I'm hoping I can use them temporarily between the pick-up and the volume pot so I can easily test out different pick-ups without having to resolder each time. [attachment=184136:clip.JPG] [/quote] Yes indeed - a great idea! Let us know how well this works - could be really useful If you haven't started grinding out the holes on the headstock, or grinding the tuners I'd defo look around for some smaller tuners You can pick up Squier tuners quite cheap on ebay - or maybe someone on here? If you have oval holes in the headstock, I think you could end up with all sorts of tuning problems when the strings are under full tension Keep us posted on your progress I really must find time for my bitsa P bass project..... EDIT: Any holes left in the back of your headstock, due to the current tuners can be filled - by simply using PVA glue, and the end of toothpicks - as illustrated in the Haynes Fender Bass Manual (nice book that, if you haven't seen it) Best Marc Edited February 17, 2015 by Marc S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 [quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1424175886' post='2693427'] Cracking idea if that works! Looks good so far mate. Always wanted to do something like this, so will be good to see how you fare! [/quote] Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 [quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1424183255' post='2693553'] Yes indeed - a great idea! Let us know how well this works - could be really useful If you haven't started grinding out the holes on the headstock, or grinding the tuners I'd defo look around for some smaller tuners You can pick up Squier tuners quite cheap on ebay - or maybe someone on here? If you have oval holes in the headstock, I think you could end up with all sorts of tuning problems when the strings are under full tension Keep us posted on your progress I really must find time for my bitsa P bass project..... EDIT: Any holes left in the back of your headstock, due to the current tuners can be filled - by simply using PVA glue, and the end of toothpicks - as illustrated in the Haynes Fender Bass Manual (nice book that, if you haven't seen it) Best Marc [/quote] Thanks Marc, I'm really keen to make the aged lollipop style tuners work some how, I have shiny Squier one's, Hipshot Ultralites, Wilkinsons etc but they aren't really the look I'm after on this build. The Fender book sounds interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumple Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 [quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1424175431' post='2693415'] [attachment=184136:clip.JPG] [/quote] I've just tried one of these with a couple of thin solid core cables and a multimeter and it worked fine I thought the wire might be too skinny for the plugs to grip but it's OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I've used those connecters for work with sensitive measuring equipment and they work great. Really like this build, that body looks lovely, its going to be a cracking bass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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