Fretbuzz help required!

[Funky Dunky]

Hmmm I shall measure the nut and get back to you.

Here's a question. I have another bass which feels perfect in every way to play. If I were to drop the tuning permanently on that bass by a semitone, what adjustments would I make to make sure it plays as sweetly? Because I tried it and it got rattley. So I tuned it back up again.

[Twincam]

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1426369948' post='2717482']


Just had a read through Twincam's post. Above bit is not the best advice. On any bass the string should be held down where the neck joins the body. That is where the neck relief starts, not at the last fret. On a Fender there are five more frets after the neck joins the body. Holding down at the last fret will give you a false reading.

What height is your nut Funky Dunky. That's the first thing that needs to be checked before anything else. Until that is right you'll never get anything else right. Then neck relief, then saddle height, then intonation.
[/quote]

While this is partially true and I get your point. Plenty of good luthiers and manufacturers alike take measurements as I suggested at the last fret and I believe the error that could be induced by taking the measurements at the last fret to be negligible. Once again pointing out that many have used the described technique for decades. And on many bolt on necks you do get a little ski jump effect which makes the curve of the neck actually from 1st to last fret which throws in all sorts of variables anyway. You will never get the perfect setup and the basses that come close time after time have a lot of attention paid to them.

To address the fret buzz further perhaps you are playing too hard?. I think this is the biggest cause of buzzing for many, some people need a higher action or larger gauge strings (higher tension, less vibration), or to refine there technique. Since I've been using low tension tape wounds ive had to refine my touch a lot!. Turn up the amp pluck lighter, if using a pick in general you need higher action.

[gary mac]

[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1426372647' post='2717502']


Here's a question. I have another bass which feels perfect in every way to play. If I were to drop the tuning permanently on that bass by a semitone, what adjustments would I make to make sure it plays as sweetly? Because I tried it and it got rattley. So I tuned it back up again.
[/quote]

Step away from the other bass

[CamdenRob]

Do you guys always loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod? I always do (although only because I guessed I should) but it's a bit annoying to have to bring it back up to pitch again to see if it's right, then detune it again if it needs a further tweak.. ad nauseam.

Some great advice in this thread though... BC at its best.

[BassBus]

Roger Sadowsky and Michael Tobias have been building basses for many years. They did a very interesting talk about setting up basses at NAMM this year. Better from the horses mouth than us hobbyists.

http://youtu.be/QzDxC98VNx8

[Twincam]

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1426495477' post='2718397']
Do you guys always loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod? I always do (although only because I guessed I should) but it's a bit annoying to have to bring it back up to pitch again to see if it's right, then detune it again if it needs a further tweak.. ad nauseam.

Some great advice in this thread though... BC at its best.
[/quote]

It seems most do not feel loosening of the strings is needed. I don't and never had a problem.

[Twincam]

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1426495927' post='2718402']
Roger Sadowsky and Michael Tobias have been building basses for many years. They did a very interesting talk about setting up basses at NAMM this year. Better from the horses mouth than us hobbyists.

http://youtu.be/QzDxC98VNx8
[/quote]

Good vid seen it before. I will say that like many things in any instrument building and setup there are many ways to do things the right way.

[HazBeen]

I have never had an issue in setting up my basses, but this video is extremely informative and good to watch.

[Bassjon]

yep thats a good un!

[Funky Dunky]

That video is a more effective marketing tool than any glossy catalogue or superstar endorsement, IMO. It makes me trust the manufacturer, and therefore makes me want to try their basses!

[tauzero]

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1426504532' post='2718505']
It seems most do not feel loosening of the strings is needed. I don't and never had a problem.
[/quote]

When tightening a trussrod, I do put a bit of pressure on the headstock so I'm stressing the thread on the trussrod a bit less than if I just tightened it. I have no idea whether I need to or not, it just seems like a good idea.

[CamdenRob]

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1426495927' post='2718402']
Roger Sadowsky and Michael Tobias have been building basses for many years. They did a very interesting talk about setting up basses at NAMM this year. Better from the horses mouth than us hobbyists.

http://youtu.be/QzDxC98VNx8
[/quote]

Just watched this for the first time... What a great resource. Two men who clearly know their stuff.

[Dazed]

I've been setting up my own basses for 25+ years. I'm not an expert by any means. I think I've got the process all sorted until I get a bass that has a problem and that's the difficult thing.

Diagnosing what the problem is. Occasionally a neck is bowed or a fret is high or insert your problem here.

I find this is where things get difficult when trying to do a set up. It's not always simple to identify the issue if you haven't crossed paths with it previously. If everything was perfect life would be much simpler!
Sometimes you can go round and around a set up but it will never be right because the bass is out of the normal parameters making it impossible to resolve using the normal adjustments.

Just my twopenneth.

[dmccombe7]

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1425869423' post='2711689']
Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup.
Tools need are a 4mm allen key, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick.

Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools.

First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string on the last fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag.
Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock.
Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right.

Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height).

There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string.
And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune.

The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard.

Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup.

I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps.
[/quote]

This is good and how i generally set mine up as a starting point.
Dave

[bassmachine2112]

I pull the neck back a bit when tightening a truss rod ala 4001 rickenbaker just to take a bit of strain off the nut when tightening,makes it easier to turn in most cases.
Twincams advice is spot on also have a look at joeysbassnotes site on set up.

[Alex Tootstick]

Big thanks to twincam first time a written explanation has made more sense than a lot of confusing videos on YouTube (for me anyway). Finally sorted my action on my very old very rough des armond. The Poor things always had a b string rattle seems ok now though cheers bro!

[Twincam]

[quote name='Alex Tootstick' timestamp='1440541870' post='2851855']
Big thanks to twincam first time a written explanation has made more sense than a lot of confusing videos on YouTube (for me anyway). Finally sorted my action on my very old very rough des armond. The Poor things always had a b string rattle seems ok now though cheers bro!
[/quote]

Glad it helped .