Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 [quote name='blablas' timestamp='1433947519' post='2795345'] It's not that black and white with a NT neck, you can always modify the bass to a bolt on or set neck. But if possible, don't risk it and just make a new NT neck while it's still easy to do. [/quote] Yes - that's my logic too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Couple of lovely even straight and flat pieces of mahogany arrived from David Dyke this morning - I reckon I'll be back to where I was on the neck by tomorrow lunchtime [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] [/font][/color] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 50% back to where I was - I cut another piece of wenge at 10 degrees to act as a central scarfe joint and it is glued and clamped to one of the mahogany sides ready for the other half which I will do later this afternoon: Then it just needs to stay dry enough tomorrow for me to put it through the thicknesser again and the job's a good 'un...I will be then ready to calculate the neck angle and cut the neck dog-leg I don't know if anyone else uses centre splices to save a bit of work with truss rod slots? When it's unclamped, I'll take a shot to show you what I mean Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 So this is the bit where you all either say "Wow, great idea Andy!" or "Well.... yeah ..... duurr-brain!" Does anyone else do this? That is, add together the fact that inner neck splices are often 6mm wide to the fact that most truss-rods are, yes, 6mm wide?? : So I offset the inner splice by c.11mm from the top face for the truss rod plus cap. The added advantage is that it means you can get two necks out of one piece of splice... Anyway - here's the 'there's no such thing as too many clamps' shot: ...and here's the ready-made truss rod slot: I have to say, superb service from David Dyke. Placed the order late Tuesday evening, paid yesterday, received two planed, straight and beautifully matched mahogany timbers this morning! Tomorrow, I will pop it in the thicknesser to slim it down to suit the body slot Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scojack Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 (edited) Back on track Andy , I used to do that with neck splices myself but just find it easier using a router table to hog out the channel now. Any time i've used DD the quality of timber has been absolutely first class, that's lovely looking mahogamananny ...real stuff too and not just an african brown wood in disguise. Edited June 12, 2015 by scojack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 [quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434096544' post='2796561'] Back on track Andy , I used to do that with neck splices myself but just find it easier using a router table to hog out the channel now. Any time i've used DD the quality of timber has been absolutely first class, that's lovely looking mahogamananny ...real stuff too and not just an african brown wood in disguise. [/quote] Yes - top supplier! I don't have a routing table but yes - that would be easier. To be honest, it's not much bother with a fence guide but somehow I always end up with a slightly wiggly line which makes capping the rod just a little more tiresome. I hear there are some dirt cheap routers and routing tables going in Aldi...maybe it's time to invest. My big router, typically, has non-standard fittings (not even the Trend 'Universal' plate will fit!!!! ) so me getting a table will always mean getting a new router as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 (edited) Hooray! I'm further on than I was, in spite of redoing the neck. I got the Makita thicknesser out and set about slimming the neck blank down to the 63.25mm slot I'd previously routed in the bubinga. I just LOVE that thicknesser Aided by the superb quality of the mahogany blanks, I slimmed it down quite quickly by around 6-7mm each side, then was able to take a further one eight of a mm (!!!) off each side to get it to fit like a glove: It doesn't often happen but immensely satisfying when it does! This is it the right way up: The neck will have a notch taken out, angled to create the neck angle and to bring the fretboard surface up level with the top of the top. But before I do that, I've got to position the bridge, height and distance from the back. Check, double check, triple check...... Thanks for looking Andy Edited June 12, 2015 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Nice. The bubinga is lovely, and it will no doubt look even better with finish and the shades of the neck & fingerboard to set it off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 [quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1434125536' post='2797010'] Nice. The bubinga is lovely, and it will no doubt look even better with finish and the shades of the neck & fingerboard to set it off! [/quote] Hi, PlungerModerno - yes...it's a lovely piece of bubinga. I know this one is a slow build, but I've got high hopes for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 Started on the bridge and tailstop routing so I can determine the angle and position of the neck. I'm using Warwick hardware which is set into the body, so both needed chambers routing. Although you see a Dremel here, I used predominately my little Bosch trimmer router - bubinga is very hard and the Dremel kicks too often to be used for the main rout - even for most of the trimming...I just use it for the tight radius corners. Because this build is for my own use, I took a risk and freehanded it. For people I build for, I always cut a template and use a bearing router-bit. Although clearly I ignore my own advice, I wouldn't recommend doing it freehand - again, one kick and suddenly you have a slot where you didn't want one As it happens, I got away with it. Here's the tailstop slot: ...and then the height-adjustable bridge: ...and here they are snugly in place Next job, sorting the neck angle and cutting the angled dogleg in the neck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joebethell Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Looking great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roman_sub Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) Andy, this is looking really great, and I look forward to seeing this progress :-) Just a question re: hardware, did you choose "W" hardware because of a particular characteristic / tonal quality? Would be interested to hear a builder's perspective here .... Cheers, Roman Edited June 15, 2015 by roman_sub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 [quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1434374111' post='2798982'] Andy, this is looking really great, and I look forward to seeing this progress :-) Just a question re: hardware, did you choose "W" hardware because of a particular characteristic / tonal quality? Would be interested to hear a builder's perspective here .... Cheers, Roman [/quote] Hi, Roman That's a sort of 'Yes and No'. The intention is to have a bass that has the same feel, balance and sound as the thumb tribute I built but without it trying to look like a copy. As such, by and large, the dimensions, woods and hardware are going to be the same where practical. The other reason is that I like some of the features of Warwick hardware and it is really not comparatively expensive in terms of bang-for-buck. It is remarkable how reasonable the prices are considering that this is what they put on their very expensive German-made models. I like the adjust-a-nut...especially for a fretless...and I like the mass and height adjustment options of the bridge (the top half is adjustable for height as a block, and then additionally each of the saddles. Particularly for a homebuilt set-neck, that means that - in the event of the action needing to be higher - I don't end up with the rather unnerving 'saddles on stilts' . Instead, the whole block is adjusted for the correct general height and then the saddles simply adjusted to match the radius. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 [quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1434371359' post='2798953'] Looking great [/quote] Thanks, Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roman_sub Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1434383409' post='2799082'] Hi, Roman That's a sort of 'Yes and No'. The intention is to have a bass that has the same feel, balance and sound as the thumb tribute I built but without it trying to look like a copy. As such, by and large, the dimensions, woods and hardware are going to be the same where practical. The other reason is that I like some of the features of Warwick hardware and it is really not comparatively expensive in terms of bang-for-buck. It is remarkable how reasonable the prices are considering that this is what they put on their very expensive German-made models. I like the adjust-a-nut...especially for a fretless...and I like the mass and height adjustment options of the bridge (the top half is adjustable for height as a block, and then additionally each of the saddles. Particularly for a homebuilt set-neck, that means that - in the event of the action needing to be higher - I don't end up with the rather unnerving 'saddles on stilts' . Instead, the whole block is adjusted for the correct general height and then the saddles simply adjusted to match the radius. Andy [/quote] Andy, Thanks for explaining. Don't think Warwick use mahogany (much) so interesting how this one is going to turn out tonally (maybe somewhat deeper/warmer tone?)... May be wrong, but is mahogany softer than the more "typical" Warwick neck woods, e.g. wenge / ovangkol- so does the mean any changes in terms of the finish you are planning to apply? Roman Edited June 15, 2015 by roman_sub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 [quote name='roman_sub' timestamp='1434384490' post='2799097'] Andy, Thanks for explaining. Don't think Warwick use mahogany (much) so interesting how this one is going to turn out tonally (maybe somewhat deeper/warmer tone?)... May be wrong, but is mahogany softer than the more "typical" Warwick neck woods, e.g. wenge / ovangkol- so does the mean any changes in terms of the finish you are planning to apply? Roman [/quote] Hi, Roman The change to mahogany is because of the factors above...I had two separate pieces of Ovangkol , both with problems. Mahogany was in the end the safer option. It will be interesting to do a side by side with my tribute build (which I will be able to do)...although the p/ups are also different - the tribute p/ups were MECs and this one will be Seymour Duncans. It's 'essence of' rather than a dead copy of a copy Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alittlebitrobot Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1434370365' post='2798938'] [/quote] holy mackerel, that's a satisfying pair of images. Such a nice fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scojack Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Would have been good with a template, but freehand , nice work Andy Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 [quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434401137' post='2799297'] Would have been good with a template, but freehand , nice work Andy Ian [/quote] Some would say reckless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scojack Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1434404033' post='2799340'] Some would say reckless [/quote] you read my mind,. Muchos Cahoonas .. all i'm sayin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 [quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434404943' post='2799346'] you read my mind,. Muchos Cahoonas .. all i'm sayin [/quote] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 [quote name='scojack' timestamp='1434401137' post='2799297'] Would have been good with a template, but freehand , nice work Andy [/quote] My thoughts exactly - every time I've tried freehand routing the results have been fairly disastrous so I make a template every time now. Respect for the skills demonstrated here, very enjoyable thread, thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 (edited) The other build I'm doing at the moment (walnut 6-string electric) is at a temporary halt while I try to work out how the hell to bend wood binding round an impossibly tight radius, so I was able to spend a couple of hours on the fretless this morning. I worked out that a neck angle of around 2 degrees was all that would be needed to get the correct action range. All I do, with this build method, is incorporate the angle in the dog-leg notch of the neck. Rather than having to set up routing rig, I just band-sawed it and planed/sanded the top face flat and level: Next was to create a cut-out in the bubinga for an overlap of the neck joint. This feature is a good example of learning by your previous mistakes . On the tribute, I slotted the neck up to the body /neck joint line. The result would have been a catastrophic thinning of the neck at the join for which I had to compensate with a very inelegant heel. NOT going to do THAT again Here's the extra cutout: ...which gives a decent amount of overlap so I can carve the heel properly where there is still a full depth of mahogany. Slotted in, it looks like this: Remember that the proportions are the same as a Thumb. The shot above gives a good perspective of just how tiny the body is and how proportionately long the neck is. From the back, it looks like this: Now I've got these major datum points fixed (after a bit of fettling to close up any gaps and routing of the pickup chambers while the top's still flat), I can slim the neck down and start the body carve. Thanks for looking Andy Edited June 21, 2015 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblueplanet Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I loved everything about my thumb except the long scale length. A short-scale version would be something to see so if the mood takes you Andy..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) [quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1435406065' post='2808492'] I loved everything about my thumb except the long scale length. A short-scale version would be something to see so if the mood takes you Andy..... [/quote] Well, as the saying goes....for only a touch less than a king's ransom, such a beast could be yours The project is going a little bit slowly because I'm doing other stuff for people and this - being for me - is tending to come down the priority list. If successful, though, I do plan to try some other variations along the same theme. One thought is, as you say, a short-scale...so maybe not a full king's ransom... The other, which my last two bass projects have got me thinking about, is full scale, but with the bridge fully aft. The two that I've done are: The Cort Curbow walnut rebody: ...and Tom's African wood bass (which gets its first professional gig TONIGHT!!!): When I looked at the Cort Curbow at first, I thought it was a short-scale bass...it's DINKY! It's actually 34" scale but everything is set as far back as it can, so the nut is a good 2-3" closer to the player than a conventional bass. The light body is also compensated by the same difference...it's a very clever design. With Tom's bass, the thinness of the body and the extended scale (it's 34.5") meant it was likely to neck dive dreadfully. So I did the same on this and it balances fine, and also doesn't feel like an extended scale at all (Tom, when he first picked it up, fully agreed with my own view on these two points). In terms of construction, to do the same would be a doddle - single fixed bridge placed at the back, longer notch on the neck and it's done! What do people think - is there an interest in full scale basses that have the neck set well back? Edited June 27, 2015 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.