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New Project - Bubinga Fretless


Andyjr1515
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Was able to spend a decent amount of time on the bubinga bass this morning.

Today's task was to break the back of the rear body carve.

I rigged up my routing slide jig to be able to cut the contours:




It took a while, but I ended up with a decent base to start the curve-planing:



For the planing, I thought I'd try a couple of most unlikely (in my head) recent acquisitions - first is a little curved sole plane from China:




...which was a lot better than I expected, but second is the teeny-tiny Ibex plane:



...which was FANTASTIC! Unbelievably efficient, in spite of its utterly diminutive size - and bubinga is a pretty tough wood!!!


Within no time, I had this...and please note that the ONLY tools I've used so far are those two planes - no scrapers, no sandpaper. Well impressed, particularly with the Ibex.




Rest of the week is going to be a bit disrupted, but hope to get the top carve done in between all of the other stuff :D

Andy

Edited by Andyjr1515
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Started on the top today.

First getting the basic curve with a jack plane:


Then a combination of spokeshaves and scrapers to start forming the curves:





Quite a bit more carving and sanding before I start on the neck but at least it is progressing! :D

Thanks for looking
Andy

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Thanks, folks :)

Having cut a lovely bit of ebony too short (hmmmmpfff :rolleyes: ) I slimmed down another thick-ish piece I've had for a while. I used the jack plane to take about 3mm off and finished off with a straight sanding beam.

Wrapped the truss rod in plumbers' ptfe tape (in theory, it should therefore be removable!) and then glued on the fretboard.

I've said it before and I'll say it again - you can't have too many clamps! The violin spool clamps, by the way, feature in my 'most useful tools Andyjr1515 has ever bought' list :) They put a stunning amount of pressure onto the all important fretboard/neck edges:



As always, thanks for looking :)

Andy

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Thanks, Roman_sub!

This afternoon was rough neck carving and fretboard profiling time.

My favourite tools for the neck are spokeshave:


...and scrapers.

Still got to do the volute and back of the headstock, but this is the first carve. I say 'first carve' because I get the whole thing strung up and then do a 'final fitting' when I can actually feel how it plays:



Then got the 12" radius sanding block out and, roughing it first with a scraper, got the radius sanded onto the ebony:



The headstock will have an ebony plate on it with my moniker swifts inlaid, but this is how it's starting to look:



Thanks for looking, folks :)

Andy

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Headstock top done - still got to finally slim down the neck to suit the nut and sort the volute carving out, but it gives an idea how it's going to look:





Still to do - volute; finish trim of the neck width; back covers; final sanding and filling; wax; side dots; assembly :)

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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1439847382' post='2846274']
...the results of the shameless theft of half a dozen or so ideas I've seen elsewhere!
[/quote]

Just like almost everybody else, since the 60's anyway. You have a rather elegant design, at least to the eyes . . . Once the bubinga gets finished I'd say it'll look even sweeter.
The proof however, will be in the playing!. Not finishing the neck profile till you have it strung up is clever. Should help decide on a profile that suits you.

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[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1440118148' post='2848476']


Just like almost everybody else, since the 60's anyway. You have a rather elegant design, at least to the eyes . . . Once the bubinga gets finished I'd say it'll look even sweeter.
The proof however, will be in the playing!. Not finishing the neck profile till you have it strung up is clever. Should help decide on a profile that suits you.
[/quote]
Thanks, PlungerModerno.

I get it 90% there just using profile templates and general feel, but like (I'm told) buying a posh suit, the 'first fitting' always needs some subsequent tweaks so that it's just right. I only have to use scrapers at that stage, which is why you can do it perfectly well strung up, but even 1/2mm off in the right place makes a huge difference to the feel.

Once it feels right, I pop a plastic bag over the body to keep the dust out, sand it lightly to get it smooth again and then refinish.

Thing is, until it's strung up and on the strap, you can't really tell if the profile and thickness is going to feel right however close you can get beforehand.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'll do the arty farty shots tomorrow (when hopefully the light will be better!), but it's basically finished.

Bits I'm delighted with:[list]
[*]It has absolutely the balance and gravitas I hoped for
[*]It is FANTASTIC to play (and not set up yet!)
[*]It sounds brilliant (and not set up yet!!)
[/list]
Bits to tweak or think about:[list]
[*]The tone and balance knobs are deliberately separate from the volume. However, when I spaced them, I forgot about the fugly stacked pot knobs SD supply with their EQ so they visually look a bit closer together than I had in my head (I trialled it with 3 standard knobs before I drilled the holes). They are fine in use though :) .
[*]I spotted a tiny bit of filling I've missed at the tailstock
[*]I've got to add the strap locks
[/list]
Overall, I'm happier than a pig in s**t - can't believe how well this has come out...















Edited by Andyjr1515
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