shielding - copper tape

[mcnach]

I finally decided to do something about the lack of shielding on my Sue Ryder fretless.



I bought this bass 3 years ago, I think, and removed the frets and had a luthier I know fill the gaps with a sycamore veneer and plane the fingerboard etc. I also changed the pickup and added some cosmetic touches. Very inexpensive bass, but I liked it more than a Squier VM Jazz and a Japanese Fender Precision I used to have...
One problem: it buzzed like crazy. It wasn't helped by the fact I put some nylon tapewound strings on it, so I'm not physically touching any metal on it when I play it.

I assumed it wasn't shielded. I didn't remember doing it.

So yesterday I decided I should do something about it, and I opened it. Well, I didn't remember it, but I had attempted to shield it!!! Lots of copper tape. Looking neat... but clearly not doing the job.

I started checking continuity with my multimeter, and the connection between the bridge and the tape was poor. Also, the pickup cavity and the control cavity did not appear to be connected at all. Strange. I checked further and I realised that the glue must not be a conductor: I get continuity when a piece of tape is over another... but it often is a poor connection. Add another layer (not necessarily on top of each other, but elsewhere, attempting to join two areas, for instance, and it's gone.

I'm pretty sure I used to have some adhesive copper tape with some glue that was able to conduct electricity, but clearly not this one.
I suppose I can get around it by making sure I create overlapping flanges when I shield an instrument... but, does anybody know *for sure* of a source for copper tape, adhesive, whose glue conducts electricity?

I fixed the bass by soldering the bridge wire to the back of a pot, as originally, and added aluminium foil to the back of the pickguard, which then joins both cavities, and the bass is dead silent now. Result!
So no, I do not need adhesive copper tape, but it's very handy, so I'd like some.

[Geek99]

You can get it easily on eBay - look for "conductive adhesive copper"

Item 360195343162 is an example


You could alternatively put a blob of solder on the edge of each piece of tape and check continuity

Edited April 19, 2015 by Geek99

[bigjohn]

Shielding doesn't really do anything on passive basses.

Buzzing on em is an usually an earthing issue.

The back of the scratchplate shouldn't need shielding or earthing. Just the bridge to the pot and through the pot (by normal wiring) to the cable and to the amp and by virtue (if the amp is properly earthed) to the mains.

Unless it's hum, which shielding does nothing for either. Unless you're using it close enough to other electromagnetic fields, which make it far worse.

I copper shielded my passive P/J, that made some difference to hum when playing it sat at my desk with a PC, 3 monitors and a cordless phone sat on it. Didn't eliminate it, but made it better. I don't get the same hum at all with a Precision. Only with the J pickup. And only with my Jazz if I don't balance the pickups.

Edited April 19, 2015 by bigjohn

[Lozz196]

My 78 Precision used to buzz a bit, so I put shielding tape all through the electrics cavity and on the back of the pickguard and it no longer buzzed.

[mcnach]

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1429467620' post='2751653']
You can get it easily on eBay - look for "conductive adhesive copper"

Item 360195343162 is an example


You could alternatively put a blob of solder on the edge of each piece of tape and check continuity
[/quote]


That's how I bought the one I have, and it clearly is not very conductive!

Have you tried that particular one?
I just need someone who has some conductive one to tell me where they got it

[gjones]

I bought copper shielding foil from this guy on ebay. I shielded the scratchplate (I didn't bother shielding the cavity) and it got rid of any buzz from my Precision. I used conductive paint, rather than copper foil, to shield my Jazz and that did the trick.

He sells both http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jeremycharlest/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2654

[Geek99]

I've used this very stuff from this very seller countless times with perfect results

Made my jap 62 jazz utterly silent

Edited April 19, 2015 by Geek99

[KingBollock]

I use the adhesive aluminium tape from Maplins. I am sure it says that the adhesive isn't conductive but actually is... Just to make sure, I shield the cavity with long strips all in the same direction, then take a single piece with a couple of millimetres folded under along each edge and lay it across the base layer. I have been known to tape a few strands of stripped copper wire across too, but it is overkill.

Doesn't really answer your question, but it might help someone.

[deepbass5]

http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/

I used this but ensured i soldered a across any joining pieces - glue is not conductive, not a lot of people know that

[mcnach]

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1429475832' post='2751804']
I use the adhesive aluminium tape from Maplins. I am sure it says that the adhesive isn't conductive but actually is... Just to make sure, I shield the cavity with long strips all in the same direction, then take a single piece with a couple of millimetres folded under along each edge and lay it across the base layer. I have been known to tape a few strands of stripped copper wire across too, but it is overkill.

Doesn't really answer your question, but it might help someone.
[/quote]


That's probably the best way to do it, conductive or not.

[uncle psychosis]

Last time I did this I just bought really cheap slug tape off ebay, a fraction of the price of the "conducting copper tape" and it turned out to conduct across the glue anyway :-) win!

[mcnach]

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1429475347' post='2751788']
I bought copper shielding foil from this guy on ebay. I shielded the scratchplate (I didn't bother shielding the cavity) and it got rid of any buzz from my Precision. I used conductive paint, rather than copper foil, to shield my Jazz and that did the trick.

He sells both [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jeremycharlest/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2654"]http://www.ebay.co.u...872.m2749.l2654[/url]
[/quote]

I never considered paint... Interesting. Thanks!

[mcnach]

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1429477408' post='2751827']
Last time I did this I just bought really cheap slug tape off ebay, a fraction of the price of the "conducting copper tape" and it turned out to conduct across the glue anyway :-) win!
[/quote]

Ha!

[ezbass]

B&Q £2 http://www.diy.com/departments/verve-slug-repellent/227649_BQ.prd?_requestid=3544669

[deepbass5]

That explains why i have never had trouble with slugs in my bass

[Ross]

Last time I shielded a bass (quite some time ago) I used the copper foil from guitar parts worldwide, lined it all and used solder between joints as belt and braces.

But I remember that having conductive glue on it, I tested it with a multimeter to make sure.

[miles'tone]

I've never had a noisy P bass at all. As long as the earth wire from the bridge to the back of a pot is soldered effectively, that should be all that's required.
(I was told this by Sims Customs actually when I was ordering a '64 P body and asked what they recommend for shielding. They said they don't, even on their own builds as it doesn't matter on a passive bass. As long as said bridge to pot wire is connected..
It did surprise me at the time but so far no probs on my last two P's, one of which I put together myself).

[bigjohn]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1429532116' post='2752284']
I've never had a noisy P bass at all. As long as the earth wire from the bridge to the back of a pot is soldered effectively, that should be all that's required.
(I was told this by Sims Customs actually when I was ordering a '64 P body and asked what they recommend for shielding. They said they don't, even on their own builds as it doesn't matter on a passive bass. As long as said bridge to pot wire is connected..
It did surprise me at the time but so far no probs on my last two P's, one of which I put together myself).
[/quote]

Yep, I agree.

There's no reason for a passive split coil humbucker to "hum" other than it's not earthed correctly. Sheilding does nothing for 60 cycle hum from single coils either.

It's different with active electrics obv.

The only benefit a passive circuit is shielding from external electromagnetism.

Edited April 20, 2015 by bigjohn

[mcnach]

[quote name='miles'tone' timestamp='1429532116' post='2752284']
I've never had a noisy P bass at all. As long as the earth wire from the bridge to the back of a pot is soldered effectively, that should be all that's required.
(I was told this by Sims Customs actually when I was ordering a '64 P body and asked what they recommend for shielding. They said they don't, even on their own builds as it doesn't matter on a passive bass. As long as said bridge to pot wire is connected..
It did surprise me at the time but so far no probs on my last two P's, one of which I put together myself).
[/quote]

On my bass, the pots/bridge ground was practically non-existent (I relied on the glue being conductive, and it wasn't), so it could well be that that was all I needed to do. Truly silent now.
Well, except for when I touch the polepieces
It doesn't happen often as I tend to play a little below the pickup on a P bass, but sometimes I do play over the pickup and further, and I get a little bzzz when I touch the poles. Maybe another time when I can be bothered I'll ground the polepieces too. Fortunately they are easy to access from below the pickup.

[Rich]

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1429475347' post='2751788']
I bought copper shielding foil from this guy on ebay. I shielded the scratchplate (I didn't bother shielding the cavity) and it got rid of any buzz from my Precision. I used conductive paint, rather than copper foil, to shield my Jazz and that did the trick.

He sells both http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jeremycharlest/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2654
[/quote]
Would aluminium paint work?

[gjones]

[quote name='Rich' timestamp='1429565975' post='2752769']
Would aluminium paint work?
[/quote]

I dunno? I believe the shielding paint is carbon based.

[gjones]

If you want to go crazy you could buy one of these. Supposedly they were fitted to all the early Precisions. [url="http://www.themusiczoo.com/product/1741/Fender-62-Precision-Bass-Pickguard-Shield/"]http://www.angela.com/62precisionbassthinaluminumpickguardshield.aspx[/url]

Edited April 20, 2015 by gjones

[rmorris]

[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1429567564' post='2752788']
I dunno? I believe the shielding paint is carbon based.
[/quote]

Yes - conductive paint for rf shielding is doped with carbon to make it effective.
It's not as good as Copper Tape ( you need to get the type with conductive adhesive if you're not soldering pieces together...)
Aluminium tape works but it's not quite as effective as Copper.
As others have pointed out: It does little against low frequency hum (eg 50 Hz Mains hum and harmonics) as this is mainly Magnetic Field and "laughs in the face "of normal shielding.
Short of employing 'mu-metal' materials there's little you can do in the way of shielding and you're reliant on balanced audio connections and humbucking pickups etc. to reject this type of noise.
To avoid it you need to get away from the source of interference (eg your amp although there's little escape from lighting rigs etc. Or at least position yourself at 90 degrees from where the interference is at it's worst)


But back to the Copper Tape and Shielding - it won't stop the mains hum but it will likely help with the local taxi firm and mobile phone signals interfering with your signal.

[yorks5stringer]

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1429570207' post='2752823']
Yes - conductive paint for rf shielding is doped with carbon to make it effective.
It's not as good as Copper Tape ( you need to get the type with conductive adhesive if you're not soldering pieces together...)
Aluminium tape works but it's not quite as effective as Copper.
As others have pointed out: It does little against low frequency hum (eg 50 Hz Mains hum and harmonics) as this is mainly Magnetic Field and "laughs in the face "of normal shielding.
Short of employing 'mu-metal' materials there's little you can do in the way of shielding and you're reliant on balanced audio connections and humbucking pickups etc. to reject this type of noise.
To avoid it you need to get away from the source of interference (eg your amp although there's little escape from lighting rigs etc. Or at least position yourself at 90 degrees from where the interference is at it's worst)


But back to the Copper Tape and Shielding - it won't stop the mains hum but it will likely help with the local taxi firm and mobile phone signals interfering with your signal.
[/quote]
[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1429570207' post='2752823']
Yes - conductive paint for rf shielding is doped with carbon to make it effective.
It's not as good as Copper Tape ( you need to get the type with conductive adhesive if you're not soldering pieces together...)
Aluminium tape works but it's not quite as effective as Copper.
As others have pointed out: It does little against low frequency hum (eg 50 Hz Mains hum and harmonics) as this is mainly Magnetic Field and "laughs in the face "of normal shielding.
Short of employing 'mu-metal' materials there's little you can do in the way of shielding and you're reliant on balanced audio connections and humbucking pickups etc. to reject this type of noise.
To avoid it you need to get away from the source of interference (eg your amp although there's little escape from lighting rigs etc. Or at least position yourself at 90 degrees from where the interference is at it's worst)


But back to the Copper Tape and Shielding - it won't stop the mains hum but it will likely help with the [b]local taxi firm [/b]and mobile phone signals interfering with your signal.
[/quote]

Will it work for Uber...?

[Count Bassy]

My experience is that copper tape is very effective, even with mains hum!

Also, I find copper tape is far easier to work with than the aluminium.