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Filing the ol' nut slots


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I've just slapped a nice new set of DR Sunbeams on my Squier VMPJ and I love 'em. They're a tad thicker than the Dunlop Super Brights that came off and as a result, they sit slightly more 'on' the nut slots than snugly 'in'. Thankfully there are no side-effects to this - no slipping or buzzing or anything nasty. But this raises a couple of questions:

1) SHOULD I file the slots and get the new strings sitting snugly?

And if so,

2) Is there any household tool I could use to do the job, as I don't own the correct, specific tools? Or is that like asking if it's okay to respray the car with Dulux?

Thanks :-)

Edited by Funky Dunky
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Somebody please correct me if this is bad advice, but I have heard several people suggest getting a roundwound string of the required size and gently running it through the nut slot to act as a file works for small adjustments.

Failing that, a needle file would do the trick. Just go slow and keep checking

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If you are definitely happy with this gauge of string, then it would be worth doing some filing to get them sitting correctly.

I have used needle/jewellers files and with a cautious approach it worked fine. I do plan to treat myself to a proper set at some point but decent ones are a quite an investment.

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[quote name='operative451' timestamp='1431272984' post='2769488']
Emery boards - the disposable nail file types! That's what i've always used, they're designed to give a smooth finish and they're cheap...
[/quote]... and they file at the sides of the slot; not so much at the bottom, which is just what you need.

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The cheapest set of bass nut slot files I can find are these - [url="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bass-Guitar-Nut-File-Set-3-double-sided-w-case-/121493237325"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bass-Guitar-Nut-File-Set-3-double-sided-w-case-/121493237325[/url]. About £45 incl shipping plus an import handling fee (around £8).

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I've found that a set of watchmaker's screwdrivers are just about the right sizes of average bass nut slots. Wrap a small bit of fine sandpaper around the business end shaft keeping it on taut with finger and thumb and keep 'shafting' (oo-er missus !) and checking with each string tensioned up until you're happy with depth and width. Doesn't take long to go through plastic. Bone takes a bit longer.

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I think the emery will work just fine. I've used a string wrapped in sandpaper, needle files, and just sandpaper rolled up upon itself - all worked OK. Best for accuracy and speed is a small rat tailed needle file - but it's only suitable down to the A string (75 or 80 thousandths of an inch).

I picked up one of these, and while they take a long time to remove material, they are the right shape: [url="http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Gas-Welding-Tip-Nozzle-Cleaner-Set-Mig-Torch-Cutting-Metal-Box-/271735018109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f44ab527d"]http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Gas-Welding-Tip-Nozzle-Cleaner-Set-Mig-Torch-Cutting-Metal-Box-/271735018109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f44ab527d[/url]

Go slow and it'll work out. I Use a 0.5 mm pick to estimate the nut action - if there's a significant gap (well over 0.5 mm) between the string and the first fret - you'll probably find fretting difficult, and have intonation problems. Well below 0.5 mm and you'll probably get into buzzing territory.

P.S. I just had a search around - turns out there are all sorts of suggested values for nut action - I know I prefer less than half a mm - but your mileage may vary.

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[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1431331381' post='2769943']
Blimey! I'm scared now, like if I screw this up it could put a wrinkle in the space-time continuum!
[/quote]

I wouldn't be - put some masking tape on the headstock and fretboard - then the worst you can do is spoil the nut!
Just do it in small increments, watch a bunch of vids of it being done to get a good idea of what it should look like, and like I said - find something of an appropriate thickness to avoid filing/sanding the slot too deep.

Top tip - use strong lighting to ensure excellent visibility. As nuts tend to be made of black or white materials I find a magnifying glass makes seeing the shape of the nut slot easier.

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[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1431359636' post='2770457']
I find a magnifying glass makes seeing the shape of the nut slot easier.
[/quote]

+1
If you can get one on a stand even better, it really helps a lot with accuracy.

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I treated my wife to one of these for her jewellery making, comes in very handy when I undertaking work to basses. ;)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lightcraft-LC8093EUK-Table-Magnifier-Lamp/dp/B00336VD18/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1431371628&sr=8-16&keywords=magnifying+lamp

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[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1431359636' post='2770457']
I find a magnifying glass makes seeing the shape of the nut slot easier.
[/quote]
Same for fret crowning - or am I just getting old.....

use the finest grade paper you can find,it will cut slower and give a smoother finish. If the paper is too sharp, you can blunt it by rubbing against itself.

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I suspect I need to do some work to the nut on my Hoppus bass. The A string has started to buzz something rotten when played open. There appears to be some travel in the string between the nut and the tuning post where the other strings are held firm. If anyone has any ideas as to how to fix it they would be extremely welcome!

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[quote name='theyellowcar' timestamp='1432420175' post='2781382']
I suspect I need to do some work to the nut on my Hoppus bass. The A string has started to buzz something rotten when played open. There appears to be some travel in the string between the nut and the tuning post where the other strings are held firm. If anyone has any ideas as to how to fix it they would be extremely welcome!
[/quote]

Could be a few things, but given that it's on the A string of a fender style bass headstock - It's likely the result of, or made worse by, the break angle over the nut.

Here's an extreme example of this (due to the A being wound up the tuning peg rather than down):


Similar problem on the E here (I think). The A is wound farther down the peg on this one though - giving the A a more pronounced break angle over the nut:

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[quote name='Mornats' timestamp='1432467974' post='2781694']
Crimson Guitars do a nut filing tool for £16. [url="https://crimsonguitars.com/shop/guitar-building-tools/nut-shaping/nut-shaping-file"]https://crimsonguita...ut-shaping-file[/url]

I'm sure they've got YouTube vids on how to file nuts too.
[/quote]

Looks like a handy tool for shaping the nut, but for the nut slots I imagine this would be more suitable, especially for electric guitar strings (or piccolo bass!). [url="https://crimsonguitars.com/shop/guitar-building-tools/nut-shaping/Nut-slotting-files"]https://crimsonguitars.com/shop/guitar-building-tools/nut-shaping/Nut-slotting-files[/url]

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[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1432435611' post='2781460']
Could be a few things, but given that it's on the A string of a fender style bass headstock - It's likely the result of, or made worse by, the break angle over the nut.

Here's an extreme example of this (due to the A being wound up the tuning peg rather than down):


Similar problem on the E here (I think). The A is wound farther down the peg on this one though - giving the A a more pronounced break angle over the nut:

[/quote]

You beauty! I had cut the string too short so it had too few winds, and was almost perfectly straight over the nut to the tuning post. I've just popped a new string on and left it long enough for a few more winds a low and behold, no buzz. Thanks for the help!

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[quote name='theyellowcar' timestamp='1432483042' post='2781881']
You beauty! I had cut the string too short so it had too few winds, and was almost perfectly straight over the nut to the tuning post. I've just popped a new string on and left it long enough for a few more winds a low and behold, no buzz. Thanks for the help!
[/quote]

You're welcome. It's one of the flaws in the fender design (I think it's an older design than even Leo Fenders late 40's early 50's electric bass & guitar prototypes).
The headstock is usually very tough, unlike tiltback headstocks of the time, but could always use a string tree on the A like:



As you have found though - or more winds around the A tuning peg is usually enough to get out of the horrible "sitar" buzz zone.

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I did wonder about a tree on the A - my MusicMan SUB has the tree on the A and D, with nothing on the G, I'm assuming because of the placement on the headstock being closer to that of the E.


EDIT: In fact, the higher end Fenders have a tree on the A too. This is a US Deluxe Jazz:

http://classicandcoolguitars.co.uk/images/2013fenderjazzdeluxe/fenderdeluxejazz8.jpg

Edited by theyellowcar
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