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blown tweeter in aguilar cab


sshorepunk
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Hi

managed to blow the tweeter in my aguilar DB212!

Had a lot of gigs over last seven days and was awre of a bit of fuzziness when digging in a bit, on Saturday night it decided to give up totally at the worst possible time! The first song in the set where I use a pick was the one that sent it over the edge, like I said, the worst possible time as I started to play the intro to A Town Called Malice, damn!! Fortunately I was DI'd through our PA rig as it was a big venue so we had the full 3.5k rig out. Didn't realize it was the tweeter at first, thought it was the amp, also changed out a speaker cable. having the ability to turn the tweeter off proved it was that what had gone

I haven't had chance to look at it yet, but does anybody know whats in these and what spares are like to get hold of?

Missed having the tweeter yesterday on a gig as I run it pretty much full on!

Tony

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I'm guessing its the same as the SWR/Eden ones...you can just change the diaphragm /voice coil assembly without changing the whole unit. Look at Fostex/Foster horns on eBay or search on Thomann. One thing though to look out for though - I seem to remember that the polarity is sometimes swapped over...so if you take it out, note the terminal connections..they may be reversed.

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Thanks for the advice, I looked on ebay, will contact B&M today

I've been running it around 80%, apparently this is too high and they are known to blow after a relatively short time when running them high. 50% is recommended!

Tony

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[quote name='sshorepunk' timestamp='1435645094' post='2810849']
Thanks for the advice, I looked on ebay, will contact B&M today

I've been running it around 80%, apparently this is too high and they are known to blow after a relatively short time when running them high. 50% is recommended!

Tony
[/quote]

I am playing my 4ohm db212 for years and I have never blown the HF (usually at +- 75%) ..... but when my db750 blew up, it broke one of the 12" drivers!

Edited by gillento
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[quote name='gillento' timestamp='1435656310' post='2810947']
I am playing my 4ohm db212 for years and I have never blown the HF (usually at +- 75%) ..... but when my db750 blew up, it broke one of the 12" drivers!
[/quote]

I think I have a spare Aguilar12 ..never even unboxed. Not sure of the impedence

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It's the N-30 type.... don't buy the Foster/Foster direct replacement ones as they tend to blow easily.

These are the ones I've purchased from Blue Arran and so far the last time I replaced was about 3 years ago

http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=SONDP101D8

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  • 1 year later...

Resurrecting an old thread here, but does anyone know how to actually test if it is just the tweeter diaphragm gone rather than the whole tweeter, or say a broken crossover? I have been googling most of the morning and they say you can test with a multimeter which are dirt cheap, but i don't know what I am looking for in the readings?

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You're looking for a resistance reading of anything between 3 and 10 ohms, depending on the tweeter. A blown tweeter normally won't give you any resistance reading at all. Disconnect the wires from the tweeter first and measure across the connections.

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Don't know if this will help but I have an ancient SWR Triad - the tweeter ( maybe a Fostex/Foster ? ) never worked. Looks similar to the one in the Aguilar, I was about to buy a new diaphragm for it, there are Youtube videos [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=PF3HU9u4ZAE"]https://www.youtube....e&v=PF3HU9u4ZAE[/url] showing how easy these are to replace, and I did take it apart to see if there were any obvious issues. All looked good.

So while it was out of the cab I tried running a headphone lead out of the laptop into the horn and it appeared to be working. Tried this with the other speakers same result all good.
Had a look at the crossover circuit and there was a bodged up cold soldered joint somebody had done as a quick repair. Resoldered this and all now works fine.
If I had a multimeter and knew how to use it, that would be the best way to proceed.

Short version of the above try a low level headphone output into the cabs input
if the 12 inch speakers work (hopefully) all is good with them.
if nothing from the horn take it out and repeat the headphone lead test thing across the two terminals
if you get nothing then the diaphragm is faulty and it is dead easy to replace.
if the horn works then it could well be a fault in the crossover

I think I just got lucky with a very visible fault and you need proper advice from Stevie-- if it turns out to be a crossover fault. Fingers crossed your new diaphragm will solve the problem.

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