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Swamp Ash P Bass with Status Neck


BobVbass
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So, I think I'm going to build myself a P Bass - I really fancy trying one with a carbon fibre neck and Lindy Fralins. The goal is to make a good looking players bass if that makes sense.

I can't take my mind up whether to try painting it myself or get it painted - I'm handy with a screwdriver and soldering iron but when ever I try spraying anything it always turns out crap :) does any one have any recommendations for guitar finishers or paint recommendations that are wombat proof?

I haven't decided on the colour yet but I want something that sets off the black neck and headstock - transparent orange maybe or metallic? Purple or blue maybe - don't know yet.

I love the Fralins on my Lakland though so I'm keen on them.

So better get looking for bits then!

Edited by BobVbass
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Why not stain the wood body the colour you want and then put an oil finish on it. Have a look at BigDGuitars on youtube. He has loads of videos showing how he stains and oils bodies. One example below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3ZYAOmA6ZI

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Last time I stained a body, I used a mix of hot water and spirits with the powdered dye suspended in that. The idea was that the fluid helped the dye penetrate the wood but, as it was spirits, it evaporated without getting the body soaking wet. It worked a treat!

I can't remember the mixture, though. Sorry. It was definitely not more than 50% water. Possibly only enough water to dissolve the dye, then topped up with spirits.

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Thanks JimBob I'll look into that

Ok I've been convinced that ash is the way to go - I'm going to aim for this type of effect - very faint blue/purple burst

http://www.shukerguitars.co.uk/p8a.jpg

But a four string obviously.

I've found a one piece body (bit more than I was looking to spend but I may as well blow the budget from the start :) )

My plan (tell me if it's pants!) -
dye the body black, then sand back to get the grain to really show,
dye blue, sand it, dye it again with darker edges like the video above,
light sand, grain seal it,
then lacquer it until I'm bored with lacquering it. Knowing me that will be about three minutes
Polish it until it is a thing of beauty and lust ( optimistic I know)

My main issue I think will be patience and control of the spray can. I just need to not expect to be able to do things too quick I think.

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I use ink (Diamine has a huge range of colours and comes in small bottles ideal for a single bass) and then either Tru-oil or Ronseal Hardglaze.

This is allighatt0r's Westone - this one was tru-oiled:



This strat 6-string was varnished with the Ronseal:


As you see, I generally veneer first, but the sides of this 6-stringer is inked straight onto the basswood. This one uses two ink colours is also Ronseal:


For both varnishing and oiling, I wipe-on using cheap micro-fibre cloths. I find it less problematic than spraying.

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[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1438157418' post='2832056']
I use ink (Diamine has a huge range of colours and comes in small bottles ideal for a single bass) and then either Tru-oil or Ronseal Hardglaze.
[/quote]

Oh - now there's an idea!
I have just signed up to a guitar building course that starts in September, and was thinking of making a blueburst telecaster (guitar!) as my first build. However there are some gorgeous colours on the Diamine site that would be a sight easier than spraying nitro laquer

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Hi, Norris / BobVBass

Just a point on the colours - remember that this is what the colour is like on white paper - the wood will impact the shade to a greater or lesser degree. The great thing is that you can order samples from Diamine at a very small cost so you can try a number of colours before deciding which one to go for. That said, 30ml is plenty for a body and is only a few pounds in any case :)

BobVBass - if you are interested in this approach, I will find a thread I've done in the past. However, my experience is that it [b]doesn't[/b] work well to do the full buffing treatment. What you do instead (it is thinned down by 30% - 50% with white spirits) is get to the last coats, let it dry, then flatten it with 2000 grit wet-sanded...so far similar...but then simply apply 1, 2 or 3 VERY thin coats on top. As long as the main coats are smooth and the varnish is well thinned, it will not need any further buffing and to do so will give you unpredictable results. It does polish well, once fully dry, with good quality auto wax if you feel the need.

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Right! I've ordered my body from guitar build!

One piece swamp ash, rear routed with vol, tone and jack on the front - should be here in a couple of weeks or so B) Bit more than I wanted to spend but hopefully it will look brilliant!

I'll upload some photo's once I get going

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