machinehead Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 [quote name='stephaniet17' timestamp='1439311335' post='2841806'] Ooh indeed! Hoping to go and see this if I can. It's like it was meant to be... [/quote] I have a US SUB in white/red scratchguard. It plays very well and sounds fantastic and they really are top value for money. That one for sale here now is a steal. I hope it works out for you. Frank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horizontalste Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Don't overlook the early 90's offering as for me they tick all the box's, mutes, 3 band, wheel of fortune & if your lucky a nice lacquered birds eye neck. You don't see them for sale often & I guess that's testament to how desirable they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Coffee Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Owned half a dozen different MM stingrays. Also a U.S. made sub which knocked the spots clean off the full stingray. I'd seek out a U.S. sub first and you might find you will like it and save a few hundred quid too. They are a distinctive sound, I can't understand why you would buy one for the ray sound and put it through a stack of effects to make it sound anything but a ray but hey - takes all sorts. What a beautiful noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 As others have already said, go get a real one! Go play a few if you can. Picked up mine 2nd hand for £690 about 8 years ago & its great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casapete Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 +1 for the USA Sub. Nearly half the price (s/h) of a standard USA Ray and not much in it. As stated above, an ideal way to dip your toe into Stingray waters without risking so much outlay. And as they usually fetch around the £350 ish mark, will probably hold their value should it not be for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drTStingray Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) The differences in the videos shown are generally between a 2 band or a 3 band EQ Stingray (in one case a U.S. Sterling - which has ceramic pick ups which tend to be a hotter sound), rather than a pre v post EB bass. Your key choice really is whether to go for a 2 band EQ or 3 band EQ. The 3 bands have more mid range at centre detent on the controls than a 2 band and the mid range control is a useful addition. I have lots of Stingrays and much as I love the 2 band EQ ones the 3 bands have more flexibility on the fly in some circumstances (especially when you're playing with a band in a room with boomy acoustics). The second decision will be whether to go for a multi pick up Stingray. These offer even more flexibility as you get a variety of coil selections, in addition to the classic single bridge humbucker soloed. Then how many strings do you want? A U.S. SR5 between circa 1992 and 2008 will come with a ceramic pick up which is slightly hotter in sound - all US SR5s have series/parallel switching also. The U.S. subs are good basses (I just bought a 5 string - and really like it) - effectively you're getting a slab bodied 2 band US Stingray with a rosewood board in cheaper finish - hence the lower cost. So as you can see, there are vast differences across the range (I haven't mentioned cool limited edition runs or the classic series, which have figured necks and other different features) all of these factors account for the differentials in used prices. I would suggest going for a 3 band standard single humbucker bass used - you should get one for around £750. A rosewood board will give you a slightly mellower sound, but the EQ will still allow you to get all the tones you want. Natural is a classic Stingray finish which attracts a surcharge new, which does not seem to be reflected in used prices. Best of luck with choosing. Edited August 16, 2015 by drTStingray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJJack Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 The only way is to try a few out. I would personally go for a Musicman if I had the cash. However, I've never tried the subs or olps. Despite my complete lack of skill I have owned a few and found that there is quite a difference between the 2 and 3 eq models. I much prefer my 2eq 1988 (sound, general feel etc.) to a 2000 3eq model I had (it sounded good but felt a bit sterile). I just got a 1994 3eq which sounds great and has some of the older features e.g. "Flea" bridge with mutes, metal battery cover but it doesn't seem to have that "thing" compared to my '88 although I need to persevere. If you ever pass by Dorset you are more than welcome to try them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcnach Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 [quote name='JJJack' timestamp='1440765380' post='2853645'] The only way is to try a few out. I would personally go for a Musicman if I had the cash. However, I've never tried the subs or olps. [/quote] The 2003-2006 SUB *is* a MusicMan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goonieman Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 [quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1440767912' post='2853693'] The 2003-2006 SUB *is* a MusicMan. [/quote] This is largely true, although its likely that the chose bodies and necks with knots and disfigurements (hence the paintjobs on back of neck etc.). The USA SUB I had also did not have quite so good rosewood fretboard quality... subtle, but the difference was there. Apart from that, it's a dead-ringer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cana.dan Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 I also think the US SUB's were poplar body's rather than ash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drTStingray Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 [quote name='cana.dan' timestamp='1440788875' post='2853949'] I also think the US SUB's were poplar body's rather than ash. [/quote] True but then so were many of the solid colours and blueburst in the late 80s/early 90s - and most trans red in that period were alder. I've just bought a U.S. Sub 5 from 2003 and it's extremely good. Also v light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcnach Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 [quote name='goonieman' timestamp='1440787307' post='2853930'] This is largely true, although its likely that the chose bodies and necks with knots and disfigurements (hence the paintjobs on back of neck etc.). The USA SUB I had also did not have quite so good rosewood fretboard quality... subtle, but the difference was there. Apart from that, it's a dead-ringer [/quote] I believe the SUBs were made of poplar, which doesn't have a very pretty grain, compared to ash for instance. It makes sense to not worry about pretty grain if you want to save money by using a simple solid finish that requires no polishing etc afterwards. I wasn't talking cosmetics, but about what really matters... they are Music Man, and the ways they chose to save money to produce a cheaper line were not, in my opinion, anything that affected the way they sounded. Besides finish, and slab body vs contoured... they are full fat MM Stingrays, with the same pickup and preamp, coming from the same factory. I've owned 3x 4-string and 1x 5-string (I have just one now) and I can't say the rosewood was of inferior quality than their "posher" brother... but there is, obviously, variation in the grain between instruments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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